Okay, so I'm an idiot!

Standard disclaimer here. If this topic has been covered already, I couldn't find it. Really tried before asking. More because I didn't want to admit my buffoonidness than anything else. So, apologies in advance if its been covered.

Here's my problem. Finally got around to drilling my tank for the bulkhead fitting for my aux tank. Everything was going splendidly until I went to attach the bike's fuel line. As careful as I thought I was being, I managed to put the bulkhead fitting in the way of the fuel line. Not directly in the way, but where the fuel line will be pressing against it enough to probably create a problem over time.

What I would like to know is if anyone has "known anyone" who might have done something similar. I notice that the fuel line is a hard plastic line covered with a rubberized sleeve. I'm wondering if it is possible to reshape the hard plastic line with a heat gun.

Any help is greatly appreciated. All "observations" as to my stupidity humbly accepted.

TIA,

Paul

Would lengthening the fuel line help?

Could you then swivel it enough to clear the fitting?

I think in my case that shortening it would be the ticket, but ultimately either would work. Not sure how to do either as it appears to be a factory pre-formed fuel line with the ends attached.

I did this mod some time ago, but do not remember a fuel line problem? I do remember taking the fuel pump out and working through that area to install the bulkhead.

Take a look at this parts book and see if you see your part there. May have to go with a flex line, but I don't remember an issue.

https://www.bikebandit.com/oem-parts/2006-yamaha-fjr1300-abs-fjr13av-fuel-tank/o/m145304sch605715

slatonp4 said:

Standard disclaimer here. If this topic has been covered already, I couldn't find it. Really tried before asking. More because I didn't want to admit my buffoonidness than anything else. So, apologies in advance if its been covered. TIA,Paul

Click to expand...

Paul,

Self-Help Rule #247, Never Put Yourself Down. There are those who will do that for you, at no extra charge.

Cheers,

Infrared

First of all, thanks for that Infrared! Hard not to call yourself out when you do something retarded, though. Still...thanks!

For anyone who is interested, probably better not to try the heat gun approach. I went ahead and tried it and the hose melted pretty easily.

I'm going to try a piece of braided hose with hose clamps attached to the end fittings. I scored the factory hose to get it off the fittings. I was very careful, but still ended up nicking the little O-rings on the fitting.

The factory hose reminds me of some PEX water lines where the hose is expanded, the fitting inserted, and the hose allowed to shrink back onto the fitting. Not sure if that is actually how they do it, but looks like it might be.

So, assuming I can find a couple of the right O-rings and the right size hose, I should be able to get some fuel to the engine again.

I'll see if I can figure out how to post some pictures.

slatonp4 said:

For anyone who is interested, probably better not to try the heat gun approach. I went ahead and tried it and the hose melted pretty easily. I'm going to try a piece of braided hose with hose clamps attached to the end fittings. I scored the factory hose to get it off the fittings. I was very careful, but still ended up nicking the little O-rings on the fitting. The factory hose reminds me of some PEX water lines where the hose is expanded, the fitting inserted, and the hose allowed to shrink back onto the fitting. Not sure if that is actually how they do it, but looks like it might be. So, assuming I can find a couple of the right O-rings and the right size hose, I should be able to get some fuel to the engine again.

Click to expand...

Paul,

Heat guns can melt lead solder, even on low settings. Just wave the heat gun across the target repeatedly, and keep it moving. The heat gun is useful for expanding tubing; heat the hose gently (as above), and insert needle-nosed pliers into the end of the tubing. Pull the handles apart, to stretch the tubing, and hold it stretched open while it cools. Once you get the tubing on the fitting, another round of gentle heat should shrink the stretched tubing back almost to the original size. Practice this trick on test-scraps, first. Auto parts stores should have a good assortment of new O-rings, typically costing a few USA nickles each. You will probably need Metric sized tubing, which will separate the wannabe parts houses from the real deal for you.

Anywho.com

will find all of the auto parts stores near you (the Internet yellow pages). Just add "automobile parts" and a ZIP code. Call around first, because it's dangerous to your wallet to wander into too many of those places.

Cheers,

Infrared

For really light duty, I'll break out a "hair drier".

Much harder to damage anything with that and you can always increase heat as need be..