2013 FJR setup

I did quite a bit of research before pulling the trigger on it and I had compiled a list of farkles that thought would make it just right, however I wanted to get in a good ride 1st to verify my research.

So far, I have come up with a small list, needed to make it "perfect"

#1 Seat. Man that thing is bad. I had a RDL on my last touring bike(NT700V) and it was fantastic. Just need another stock seat, so I am not out of service for too long.

#2. Windshield. The stock windscreen is decent, but does provide some buffeting at the highest setting. I was able to get a Yamaha Touring shield thrown into the deal, so that takes care of that.

#3. Top box. When I was younger, I wanted the most stripped minimalistic down bike, now I want as many storage options available. I also got a real good deal on the Yamaha Shad box from the dealer.

4. Auxiliary lighting: Stock headlight is decent, but does leave some room for improvement. Mirror brackets and a set of ADVmonster model 55 lights w/ dimmer switch. Again, had the same setup on my NT and I have already ordered the necessary components.

#5Handlebar risers: Stock position isn't bad, but I know it will get old on longer trips. A set of MCL risers should do the trick. If not, the Helibar setup looks Hella good.

6. Peg lowering: Again, I don't dislike the stock positioning but I know it will get on a longer ride. MCL lowering brackets.

#7. Highway pegs: More of a luxury, but a critical piece of long distance hardware. Ordered a set from a forum member on FJRowners.

#.Hydration: Not something I have ever taken too seriously(stupid, right) but I am thinking of a Nelson-Rigg CL-2020 tank bag, with a 3-liter hydration bladder.

I think that about covers things for now, I am sure a couple more items will pop up, as discovered and if you guys can add any knowledge, I would be much appreciated.

If original owner has not already done so you may want to consider upgrading the ECU to a 2014 unit. The '13 had a cruise control restriction of around 82 or 83 mph if I recall. 2014 Yamaha changed that to allow a higher cruise control setting slightly over 100 mph. Some searching on here and you'll be able to find more exact details. This may or may not be important to you but some of our members from the Western states are able to use the higher settings.

I didn't know that. I may have to look into that. I will definitely need higher than 80mph in west Texas when I do my CCC100 ride in October...

The interstate speed limit in the region I live in is 80 MPH. My 2013 cruise is governed to 82 MPH indicated which is a true 80 MPH. Given the high price of a new ECU (around $600), I have no interest in changing to a new one. I try to limit my time on interstates, but there are times that it makes sense to use one. Cruising at 80 is okay normally, but if I want to go faster I can always use the throttle. Also, with a car tire on the bike the speedo is corrected so that 82 indicated is a true 82 and I get two additional MPH while on cruise control . Most of my riding is on Montana and US highways that have 70 MPH speed limits. On those the 80 MPH cruise limit is not an issue.

To me the limit is a minor irritant that has probably saved me from getting some performance awards. To others it is bothersome enough to merit spending the cash for an ECU.

Congrats on your recent purchase. The FJR is a fine motorcycle and based on your intelligent OP, you must have enough experience to know a good motorcycle when you find it.

A couple of other suggestions for your "farkling" pleasure (bad joke, my apologies):

1. Frame sliders - the T-Rex sliders are inexpensive and work remarkably well on the Gen III bike. I know this from first hand experience, unfortunately. You can also get the canyon cages or the Yamaha factory sliders, which are more robust, but more expensive and require more disassembly of the bike to install.

2. Accessory Fuse Block. There are many available. I have the Fuzeblock FZ-1. I like this one because it has the relay built into it, and each circuit can easily be flipped from "switched power" to "unswitched power" simply by moving the fuse. Mine is installed under the rider's seat. I ran 1 pair of 12 gage wires from the battery to the FZ-1 and then run all accessories from there. There is a blue wire with red stripe in your factory harness that supplies switched power to the license plate illumination bulb, which runs on the left side of the bike. VERY conveniently, there is a bullet style connector very close where I have my FZ-1. I use that for my trigger on the FZ-1 - very easy to build a harness that doesn't require you to cut a factory wire.

3. Heated Gear - Many choices out there - I've got the tourmaster. Run the power pigtail to the FZ-1 on a switched circuit.

4. GPS with mount? Again, many choices available - I've got the Tom Tom Rider. Powered to the FZ-1 on a switched circuit.

5. Radar Detector?

6. I've also added an SAE connector, which is wired directly to my battery. I use this for a battery tender and for my on the road air compressor.

7. Tank Bag? I've got the Givi 15L bag that uses a sweet tank ring mount, so the bag doesn't touch the tank (and scratch it)

8. Saddle bag reflectors. Alex with Real Time Industries is a vendor on our forum that makes these incredible 3M stickers that go on the back of our saddle bags. They are basically invisible during the day, but provide an enormous amount of visibility at night. Consider these. You can find Alex in the vendor board.

Regarding the top box - be advised that although rare, there have been some instances of heavily loaded top boxes over stressing the sub frame on the bike with the stock rack utilized. The stock rack creates a cantilevered load on the sub frame, and when over loaded, the subframe cracks. Two considerations:

- If it's not too late, pass on the OEM top box an opt for a Givi Mono-key unit instead. In my opinion, these boxes are more durable and have a better sealing and latching system. And you can add the Givi SR-357 rack, which ingeniously transfers a lot of the load much farther forward and lower on the subframe. To my knowledge, we have not heard of a subframe failure with the Givi SR-357 rack.

- Gararld on this forum makes incredible accessories. He's designed what he calls a "stiffy kit" for the subframe, which effectively thickens all of the tubing for the frame, making it much more rigid and stronger. Ingeniously, his design requires no metal cutting or welding, but does require a small amount of unnoticeable cutting on your tail plastic. Again - Garald is on the vendor board.

Hope this information is helpful. Enjoy your motorcycle.

hppants said:

Congrats on your recent purchase. The FJR is a fine motorcycle and based on your intelligent OP, you must have enough experience to know a good motorcycle when you find it.
A couple of other suggestions for your "farkling" pleasure (bad joke, my apologies):

1. Frame sliders - the T-Rex sliders are inexpensive and work remarkably well on the Gen III bike. I know this from first hand experience, unfortunately. You can also get the canyon cages or the Yamaha factory sliders, which are more robust, but more expensive and require more disassembly of the bike to install.

Click to expand...

I have been looking at those. Good call.

hppants said:

2. Accessory Fuse Block. There are many available. I have the Fuzeblock FZ-1. I like this one because it has the relay built into it, and each circuit can easily be flipped from "switched power" to "unswitched power" simply by moving the fuse. Mine is installed under the rider's seat. I ran 1 pair of 12 gage wires from the battery to the FZ-1 and then run all accessories from there. There is a blue wire with red stripe in your factory harness that supplies switched power to the license plate illumination bulb, which runs on the left side of the bike. VERY conveniently, there is a bullet style connector very close where I have my FZ-1. I use that for my trigger on the FZ-1 - very easy to build a harness that doesn't require you to cut a factory wire.

Click to expand...

I had an Eastern Beaver on my NT700V. I should look into another one, even though I will only have a battery tender and fog light hookup on the battery.

hppants said:

3. Heated Gear - Many choices out there - I've got the tourmaster. Run the power pigtail to the FZ-1 on a switched circuit.

Click to expand...

I currently have a heated jacket liner from Cycle Gear w/ a thermostat. It will plug into the Battery Tender plug.

hppants said:

4. GPS with mount? Again, many choices available - I've got the Tom Tom Rider. Powered to the FZ-1 on a switched circuit.

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I have a Nuvi that I have used in the past and am looking for a good deal on a Zumo or TomTom

hppants said:

5. Radar Detector?

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Won't need one if the Cruise Control limits me to 82mph

hppants said:

6. I've also added an SAE connector, which is wired directly to my battery. I use this for a battery tender and for my on the road air compressor.

Click to expand...

Ditto

hppants said:

7. Tank Bag? I've got the Givi 15L bag that uses a sweet tank ring mount, so the bag doesn't touch the tank (and scratch it)

Click to expand...

I like the tanklock bags and am still undecided on that. It will either be a Givi Tanklock or the CL-2020 magnetic.

hppants said:

8. Saddle bag reflectors. Alex with Real Time Industries is a vendor on our forum that makes these incredible 3M stickers that go on the back of our saddle bags. They are basically invisible during the day, but provide an enormous amount of visibility at night. Consider these. You can find Alex in the vendor board.
Regarding the top box - be advised that although rare, there have been some instances of heavily loaded top boxes over stressing the sub frame on the bike with the stock rack utilized. The stock rack creates a cantilevered load on the sub frame, and when over loaded, the subframe cracks. Two considerations:

- If it's not too late, pass on the OEM top box an opt for a Givi Mono-key unit instead. In my opinion, these boxes are more durable and have a better sealing and latching system. And you can add the Givi SR-357 rack, which ingeniously transfers a lot of the load much farther forward and lower on the subframe. To my knowledge, we have not heard of a subframe failure with the Givi SR-357 rack.

Click to expand...

PO already put the reflective tape on the saddlebags.

Too late on the top box. Dealer almost threw it in for free. Beggers can't be too choosey.

hppants said:

- Gararld on this forum makes incredible accessories. He's designed what he calls a "stiffy kit" for the subframe, which effectively thickens all of the tubing for the frame, making it much more rigid and stronger. Ingeniously, his design requires no metal cutting or welding, but does require a small amount of unnoticeable cutting on your tail plastic. Again - Garald is on the vendor board.

Click to expand...

I did see the stiffy kit and will eventually invest in it. I do not plan on carrying much in the top box. Just extra gloves, IBA paperwork. I will save the heavy stuff for the saddlebags for COG purposes.

hppants said:

Hope this information is helpful. Enjoy your motorcycle.

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Thank you for your help. I look forward to utilizing this board to climb the learning curve of a new bike and eventually be able to contribute in knowledge.

"6. Peg lowering: Again, I don't dislike the stock positioning but I know it will get on a longer ride. MCL lowering brackets."

A lot of us took these off after digging them into the pavement. Do a little careful corning until you know their limits.

The best advice I've seen is 'ride it before you fix it'.

After all of the mods most of us have put on (and taken off) most folks say this bike will 'grow on you' if you give it a chance.

Give it a month or so of riding regularly, and you may save time and $$$ by just fixing what needs fixing. YMMV

roger dodger posted: The best advice I've seen is 'ride it before you fix it'.

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Most excellent advice, sir. (Peg lowering kits are Satan's invention.)

Echoing 'dodger...ride it before you "fix" it and then incrementally modify to suit. Lots of great advice here, do some reading and take your time before making it yours!

--G

I am 6'3" with a 34" inseam and I don't find the legroom too bad with the seat in the high position. I could easily drag the pegs before I cranked up the ride height and I can still drag them if I get really agressive. I would avoid peg lowering kits.

If you want a higher cruise set limit you can buy an ECU from a 2014 or newer and that will resolve your 82mph limit. It is my understanding that it is a plug and play. Search on the forum there is a thread.

Peg lowering will be a matter of personal preference and physical size. I swear by them, once you grind the feelers down. Others don't need them and wouldn't use them if they did. I've got an extra set of pegs just so I can swap from lowered to stock in seconds. And I never take the lowered pegs off. Ride it long and then see what's hollering to be fixed. Assume no comfort fixes are necessary, and see what, if anything, begs to be changed.

roger dodger said:

The best advice I've seen is 'ride it before you fix it'.
After all of the mods most of us have put on (and taken off) most folks say this bike will 'grow on you' if you give it a chance.

Give it a month or so of riding regularly, and you may save time and $$$ by just fixing what needs fixing. YMMV

Click to expand...

I put about 5,000 miles on mine before I did anything to it.

One thing I didn't see in the thread was the reflective stickers. That are sold for the hard bags. Those things work great. Makes an FJR really light up from behind at night. Good cheap insurance.

Can I put a link to them in a thread?

Realtime industries. Invisible in the daytime. Makes the whole rear of the bike (bags) a reflector at night. You don't technically "need" it, but a switchable headlight modulator, enhance brake light, and bag reflectors are pretty popular safety features.

danh600 posted: Can I put a link to them in a thread?

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Yes. Click here, or maybe here.

Thank you for all of the advice.

I am doing a bun burner gold attempt in March. This ride will qualify me for my CCC100 attempt in October.

I am trying to score another stock seat, so I can send it off to RDL while still being able to ride. If I can't, I will get the solo Sargent, then sell it when the RDL comes in.

I have placed an order with MCL for their bar risers, peg lowering kit and ram ball brake reservoir. However, I placed the order 3 days ago and haven't received anything beyond the auto-generated invoice. I have emailed them, without any response. (Yeah, read the post about their lack of CS) I purchased some items from them a couple of years ago for my NT700V and they were decent. I am considering calling my CC company and having them decline the payment, since it is still showing pending.

fireman, you might find a JFR rider in your area that has a extra set of seats you might use while yours are in the build.

I know here in the Pacific Northwet we have a extra set or two floating around for this.

Helmet locks so your not dragging your helmet around or wasting storage space:

https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php/topic/2399-helmet-lock-brackets/page-12