Ignition problem,help!

Hi All,I have a fisrt gen FJR 2003 1300.while on a trip in Idaho I pulled over and shut the bike off,turned the key to go the bike would not work,no ignition,lights,dash nothing.So after alot of panic and hotwiring on the side of the highway,I got it to run but as soon as I let the clutch out it shut off.Uhauled it home very po,ed.Fixed the ignition switch,put is all back fires right up put it in gear shuts off,

;side stand switch works

;clutch switch works

if I try to start in neutral nothing happens, the dash lights up like normal,pull the clutch in and if fires right up.

I by-passed clutch switch and the neutral indicator and it will run in gear.

it will only run with the clutch lever pulled to the bar.

is there a imobilizer on this model?

Thanks Andy

It sounds like BOTH the neutral switch and the side stand switch aren't working properly but the clutch switch is OK.

Should start in neutral irrespective of the side stand or clutch switch.

Should not quit when the clutch is let out unless the side stand is down. (In neutral it would continue to run and in gear, it would engage and try to go.)

Whether or not it is in neutral, the bike "thinks" it is in gear. Whether or not the side stand is down, the bike "thinks" it is.

Did they have immobilizers on Canadian Gen I?

Edit: I found an on-line Canadian manual for a 2003 and saw no mention of an immobilizer.

I have a manual for the Gen 1 bike too, and have no info/experience with any immobilizer feature.

Good luck.

I assume you did the normal hot wire temp fix by connecting the brown & red. I ran mine like that for a full summer.

How did you make you permanent repair? Replace the complete ignition or just resolder the connections on the base of the switch?

I'm not convinced that you bypassed your two safety switches properly. It sounds like your side stand switche is acting up.

Canadian FJR

If it only runs with the clutch lever pulled and dies when it is released then the clutch switch clearly works. If it dies when the clutch is released with the bike in gear then the side stand switch is not working. If it also dies in neutral when the clutch is released or if it won't start in neutral (clutch released) then there is a problem with the neutral switch (even if the neutral light works).

The 2001/2002 Canada/Europe model 03/ US has not immobilizer.

The mama Yamaha installed it from the 2003 Canada/Europe model.04 US.

Thanks Guy's

Since it starts and runs in neutral,with the clutch in only,that bypasses the side stand circuit.

let the clutch out and it shuts off electrically,in neutral,it should not make a difference if the side stand is down or up

I checked the sidestand with a ohmmeter and it is working.

this bike ran flawlessly for 6,000 miles that I have owned it

it is very unusual for two thing to quit at the same time on the road.

while hotwiring it I connected all 4 wires together ........

the ignition switch connections were fine it was the little brass contacts inside,and it seems to work fine now.

I do not have a manuel and cannot afford a shop.I restore old motorcycles but this is new.

there is a 3 wire thingy beside the neutral indicator,anyone know what that is?

It is the speed sensor,N24 in microfiche if you mean the neutral switch/sensor.The Neutral switch is over of the speed sensor in the back side of the engine.

https://www.partzilla.com/parts/search/Yamaha/Motorcycle/2003/FJR1300+-+FJR1300R/ELECTRICAL+1/parts.html

I'm not sure how this would impact things but the way I was taught to over ride the ignition switch is

to connect the red/brown.

If using the key, you can leave the black. Is there a chance that by connecting the two black to the red/brown you

damaged the neutral switch?

You might want to PM Ionbeam and pick his brain on this one.

Canadian FJR

Anyone know were the Neutral safety switch is?

Here is the Neutral Switch if you mean that.

when I bypass that to ground I can get it to run in gear.......only with the clutch looped.

if I let the clutch out it will shut off,dash is still lit, just shuts off engine.

if the neutral switch was a problem it should run fine once grounded

Thanks Guys for your support I am a little frazzled and it will be riding season soon.

NOT sure about your problem.

My 2005 had many connectors under the tank that were corroding. Under the T-bar. I'd check those they are not sealed- waterproof.

The behavior the OP mentioned is not the way the immobilizer behaves. On my Gen II, if I put a non-immobilizer key in the ignition, everything works like normal when the key is turned on but the bike just cranks and cranks and won't fire. You also don't hear the fuel pump prime and it flashes the immobilizer light.

So, even if you do have an immobilizer, it doesn't sound like the issue.

Sounds like a defective switch,but as you said it should run fine once grounded.

Also as ''mech 1 twa'' wrote,have a look at those connectors under the T-bar.

These connectors can cause a lot of problems from what we hear.Perhaps the problem is somewhere there in those connectors.

If the two switches the one on the clutch lever and the neutral switch are ok,then the problem is in a corroded connector probably.

Also have a look at the sidestand connector if it is in good condition and no corroded.If this connector is corroded can cause this symptom.

Happened to me once in my other bike XTZ 750.

I can't imagine something else..

Proper operation of the switches:

If the bike is in neutral, the engine will start and run, and remain running. Clutch switch and sidestand switch are irrelevant when in neutral.

If the bike is in gear, lowering the sidestand will kill a running engine. If not running and in gear, it cannot be started unless the sidestand is up and the clutch is pulled. The only thing the clutch switch inhibits is starting in gear.

Lets be sure the ignition switch bypass is correct. The ignition switch is double-pole. The heavy wires to the switch are the main power to the bike. The lighter-gauge wires connect the sidestand/neutral circuit of the starter cutoff relay to the ECU. If that switch bypass is incorrect, the clutch switch could be grounding that line, telling the ECU that the sidestand is down. A proper ignition switch bypass will connect BOTH circuits to an external DPST switch, the lighter gauge wires on one pole, the heavier gauge wires on the other. If there's a short in the switch and the lighter gauge wires are still there, maybe because you didn't think they mattered, then I can see the clutch switch doing what you describe.

I would also check the starter interlock relay under the seat. That's the one component in the bike that all of these switches connect to, but I suspect the second pole of the ignition switch.

wfooshee:I like your direction,disconected the 2 smaller wires and checked the ignition switch with my voltmeter and it is working.

one of the small wires from the harness is 9.9v and the other is nothing and not grounded.

I looped it cause I love to do that.....no change,cranks no fire,pull clutch in and it fires.

this is intresting:"I would also check the starter interlock relay under the seat. That's the one component in the bike that all of these switches connect to"

anyone got a pic of this?

I think I rfied some thing by hooking all four wires together,while hotwireing.

Thanks Guys !

https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v626/wheeliea/P3060003.jpg

I do believe that is what I am looking for

everything seems fine except the teal green with gold band does not have 12 volts.....1.090v it is the other side of the sidestand.