immobilizer

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rickpetrus

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Hello!

I am getting a fault code 51 and my '06 AE won't start right away. However, if I remove the key and reinsert it, usually it starts right away. If not, I remove once more and then it starts. I've been in touch with a dealer who has sent me the info on how to re-code my keys. I have done this with one key but I can't get the other key to re-code. So to work around this, I thought I would use the master key (red one) as it sets the code, so it must always work, right? Well, twice on this weekends ride, I got a error code 51. However the bike started right away on the restart.

So I'm thinking it's the immobilizer (although the info the dealer sent me also mentions the ECU as a problem source). How hard is this to change? Does the immobilizer also include the ECU and the two must be changed together? And what kind of cost am I looking at? The dealer quoted me $1800 cd for a new set of keys, but I assume that's with new locks for luggage, etc.

Any ideas?

Thanks.

 
The procedure to get both keys working is a bit unclear in the manual. It took me a few tries when I replaced my ECU to get both to work. Read the procedure carefully; I misread it the first time and timing is everything. I can post the procedure later today, if you need it.

As far as riding with the Red key - you are playing with fire...

The replacement immobilizer is actually in the dashboard. I found the part # for the whole assy a while ago and it is a big ticket item. The ECU can be re-paired to the immobilizer using the red key.

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Error 51 is Key and immobilizer not communicating, so the issue is probably the immobilizer antenna on the switch - part 41 above.

2017-03-09%2022.10.30-M.jpg


ps - your problem is definitely not the ECU. When I replaced my ECU, I was getting a 53 error.

 
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Another thought - does your bike have the recall ignition switch installed? If not, you might want to get that done first.

 
I'm unfamiliar with the ignition switch recall and I don't remember if it's been done. I'll check with the dealer today. What was the recall for? But thanks tons for the info as I believe it supports what I feel is the root problem-the immobilizer unit. The dealer has emailed me the procedure for re-coding the keys from the shop manual. You're right though, you've REALLY got to read the procedure carefully and yes, timing is everything.

 
I've checked with the dealer where I bought the bike and the recall has been done. Today, I opened the left side cover and checked the shifter connection as well as the mounting weld. All seems good so that's a relief. Today, I re-paired the one key that was giving me a "52" fault. (unregistered key) It seemed to take the registration and today, it started the bike. All's good so far but there are going to be trust issues going forward, I can tell.....

I am going to keep my rides local for the time being until circumstances allow for an immobilizer change. And until they stop putting black wheels on FJR's, this is the bike I'm gonna have.

 
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If you re-paired one key, you probably broke the other one. You have to register both of the black keys at the same time.
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Separate note: Since you have a 2006, it may suffer from altitude sickness (see the sticky thread above). The updated Canadian ECU will have a -33 stamped on it. The original ECU has a -31 stamped on it. Yamaha was offering these upgrade kits for free at one time (part # is 90891-30055) but now charge for them, still worth having. It made a huge difference to the running of my bike in the mountains. It drove me nuts before I upgraded it.

 
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Thanks for the info. So can I re-pair the Keys? I paired one key a few days ago but the second one wouldn't pair. Well, today I paired that second key but I left the other key in the house, thinking it was paired already. What your telling me is I have to do both keys at once. Can I redo the keys? When you say I broke it, are you saying I've toasted the chip, never to be used again? Because that doesn't seem right-if I fail to pair both keys at once, I have to get new keys? Or chips? That's a little fragile, I should think.

 
Honestly, I miss the days when, if a key fit into an ignition switch and you could turn it, the bike started! I'd be good with a bypass for this bloody immobilizer!

 
Yes you must re-pair both keys at the same time.

'Broke' as in only one key will now work, the last one paired.

Follow the instructions and you can/must do both keys.

The trick is this;

Red key in, on and out.

WAIT for flashing red lamp

Key 1, in, on and out.

Key 2, in, on and out after lamp stops flashing.

As instructions state, immobilizer must be in standby mode before you start.

And then put that red key somewhere safe.

Good luck with your other issue. Hope its not a new ECU. ($$$)

-Steve

 
Be careful. Many keys like that have a limit to the number of times they can be flashed. Usually around 8. Random as Hell, but 8, for some reason. Maybe not so on the FJR. Good luck!

 
Sapest has it right. I said "broke" - I should have said "unpaired". My bad; I didn't mean to give you a heart attack.

The re-pairing process is a PITA. It took me three or four tries before both black keys were working when I replaced the ECU.

BTW, the upgraded ECU is only $275CDN.

 
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I've been in the hills and mountains of new england as well as the sago- nay in Quebec. The bike has always run perfectly, never missed a beat. Now with the Hindle on, it even sounds great. So I'm a little reluctant to drop 275 on an ECU when I have what appears to me a good working one. Besides, I gotta save my money for a new immobilizer, dontchya know..!

 
Follow up now. I've still had the same problem, regardless of which key, including the master red key, I use. Posed the problem to my local dealer. Service manager came up with 2 solutions.1:replace the immobilizer at $450cad plus Labour. 2:eek:rder an immobilizer emulator from China for $10cad plus $5 shipping, the dealer will solder it in, and voila, immobilizer bypassed! Kudos to Gary at trailside sports for this innovative and affordable solution. Worst case, he's wrong and i'm out $15. Best case scenario, I ride worry-free!

 
Still waiting for this little PCB to arrive from China. Guess paying four bucks for shipping doesn't really speed things up. Sigh.

 
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