Turn signals all blinking

Have a 2010 FJR and an issue started today in which I get both directions flashing at once, so basically hazard lights, when I flip the switch for either direction. All lights are working fine, but it could get a bit confusing for drivers behind me when I signal for both directions at once. This something simple like the fuse, hopefully, or am I looking at tracing wires through the underbelly of the bike? I'm honestly inclined just to be the jerk who never signals if this is going to cost me tons of time or money.

Are you sure you don't have the emergency flashers turned on?

Ground fault.

Given that the emergency flashers are on the right bar and the blinkers are on the left, definitely not mixing those up. So, assuming the 2nd reply is an accurate place to start, I gather that may not be the easiest thing to chase down?

yukondan said:

<<snip>> So, assuming the 2nd reply is an accurate place to start, I gather that may not be the easiest thing to chase down?

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Not too bad to find once you do some digging.

There's a few threads pinned, check out Intermittent Ground Wire Connection for starters.

--G

This isn't a typical "spider" issue and the 2010's are not as likely to suffer from that particular problem as the '06-'09. Not to say they can't but it probably isn't the first thing I would check. (If you are ONLY having issues with the signal lights, I would certainly focus on that part of the system first) In most issues with the multi-pin spiders, all sorts of other weird stuff happens - no windshield up/down, high beam indicator on, glove box solenoid inoperative, possible no start, signal indicators often both lit (faintly) etc.

Check the handlebar switch first. Take it apart and clean it up.

Have a look at the sockets for the turn signals - the front, in particular. (Potentially more exposed but the rear is also possible.) A bit of a pain to get to but I think I would start by disconnecting the harness sequentially from the right and left front signals and see if the problem goes away. If it does, have a look at the connectors and especially the sockets themselves. Pretty common issue to have a short in a corroded socket so the blink feeds back to all of the bulbs. I have seen it before with two filament bulbs/sockets on bikes and cars.

Going to be harder to find if it isn't one of the above.

Note: It is normal to see slight changes in the front marker light element on the left side when the right blinker is going (not the blinker filament). I think this is just due to slight voltage fluctuations due to the current draw of the signal lights.

Edit - Have you done anything electrical to the bike lately? (added accessories/light etc?)

RossKean said:

This isn't a typical "spider" issue and the 2010's are not as likely to suffer from that particular problem as the '06-'09. Not to say they can't but it probably isn't the first thing I would check. (If you are ONLY having issues with the signal lights, I would certainly focus on that part of the system first) In most issues with the multi-pin spiders, all sorts of other weird stuff happens - no windshield up/down, high beam indicator on, glove box solenoid inoperative, possible no start, signal indicators often both lit (faintly) etc.
Check the handlebar switch first. Take it apart and clean it up.

Have a look at the sockets for the turn signals - the front, in particular. (Potentially more exposed but the rear is also possible.) A bit of a pain to get to but I think I would start by disconnecting the harness sequentially from the right and left front signals and see if the problem goes away. If it does, have a look at the connectors and especially the sockets themselves. Pretty common issue to have a short in a corroded socket so the blink feeds back to all of the bulbs. I have seen it before with two filament bulbs/sockets on bikes and cars.

Going to be harder to find if it isn't one of the above.

Note: It is normal to see slight changes in the front marker light element on the left side when the right blinker is going (not the blinker filament). I think this is just due to slight voltage fluctuations due to the current draw of the signal lights.

Edit - Have you done anything electrical to the bike lately? (added accessories/light etc?)

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Check all the bulbs first. Filament could be shorted in one. Parking lights are powered all the time could be feeding power back somewhere.

Thanks for the advice on this one. I'm definitely fine with checking the switch and the rear lights, since just have to remove the seat to get to those. I'm contemplating whether my time is worth more to me than it would cost to take it to my local (and dependable) shop on those front ones considering the amount of plastic I'd have to remove.

Only thing I've done recently is put new bulbs in the headlights, but that was a few months ago, and just got new tires installed about a month ago. Since those are the same bulbs as automotive, I did put in some slightly brighter Sylvania bulbs, so not sure if the brighter bulbs are drawing more current and doing weird things or not. Can't see how that would manifest as a turn signal issue even if they were, though. I do live in a rather damp area of the world, however, so a bit of corrosion somewhere would not be surprising.

Brighter incandescent headlight bulbs draw little, if any, higher current. Totally separate circuits anyway so this cannot be related. Once you have done it once or twice, it really isn't a big deal to remove the side covers to get at the front bulbs/sockets. There is a tutorial on plastics removal - I will find it and add to this post.

Here:

https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php?showtopic=116788

Quote: I do live in a rather damp area of the world, however, so a bit of corrosion somewhere would not be surprising.

There is a non-weatherproof connector behind the left front

turn signal that connects the switchgear to the main wiring

harness.

Open it up. Clean it. Clean it again. Put on some dielectric grease

and reassemble.

Check your turn signals for proper operation. HTH

Thanks, SLK50. That's the only thing I haven't yet looked at. Got ambitious after replying an hour ago and pulled the plastic off the right front and checked that bulb and the connector. Also checked the rear bulbs and connectors and pulled apart the switch and cleaned it. That was a simple, interesting bit of engineering. Decided to call it a day and I'll pull that left bit off later or tomorrow. And I gather when you say left, you mean left as viewed from the seat as a rider and not left looking dead on from the front. The one on the rider right wasn't much of a connector, so I'm assuming that is not the one.

yukondan said:

Thanks, SLK50. That's the only thing I haven't yet looked at. Got ambitious after replying an hour ago and pulled the plastic off the right front and checked that bulb and the connector. Also checked the rear bulbs and connectors and pulled apart the switch and cleaned it. That was a simple, interesting bit of engineering. Decided to call it a day and I'll pull that left bit off later or tomorrow. And I gather when you say left, you mean left as viewed from the seat as a rider and not left looking dead on from the front. The one on the rider right wasn't much of a connector, so I'm assuming that is not the one.

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Correct, left as when sitting on the seat facing front.

Broken filament in the left front turn signal. I can certainly go to a dealer on Monday or Tuesday and order it from them, but anyone have any decent web sites where I can just order a damn turn signal bulb? I've tried all the usual suspects like Revzilla, Amazon, etc., and all they have is after-market kits for EXTREME LIGHTING, BRAH! I just want a damn bulb.

Looks like "mech 1 twa" nailed the root cause. (Simpler is always the place to start!)

Can't remember the designation but I picked up one at a local auto parts place. I just brought the old one in and matched it.

Here's a picture...

I can read some of the lettering

W21/5W Stanley 12V Maybe a GA11 as well

Bulb is about 4.5 cm (1 3/4") in length

Edit - the "W21/5W Stanley 12 V" Google search will give you LOTS of hits - readily available! The running light filament is 5W and the signal filament is 20W, I believe.

Bit of a pain to get to them so I replaced both. My running light filament broke but didn't short so I waited until I had it apart for other maintenance. (Signal still worked) Doesn't seem to matter which way they go in. The bulb with the "Stanley" label was actually one of the ones that came out - might have expected an obviously Asian-made bulb.

yukondan said:

Broken filament in the left front turn signal. I can certainly go to a dealer on Monday or Tuesday and order it from them, but anyone have any decent web sites where I can just order a damn turn signal bulb? I've tried all the usual suspects like Revzilla, Amazon, etc., and all they have is after-market kits for EXTREME LIGHTING, BRAH! I just want a damn bulb.

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Your local parts house will have the bulbs. IIRC, I picked up replacements at O'Reillys.

--G

Yeah, the O'Reilly's in my podunk town tried to help, but they either didn't have it or couldn't figure out which one it was. I looked with the guys, so if they had it, we missed it. I'll try some stores in the rather larger city 10 miles to my east tomorrow. The W21/5W Stanley 12 V should hopefully help. I think the local guys were just looking in their computers for the H 21 also on the bulb and that was useless information, it seems.

On a tangentially related note, my 2010, purchased new, still has the OE battery in it. I'm thinking of replacing that right now given I already have all the Tupperware off the front end and therefore the battery is exposed. I gather 7 years or more is probably a good long life for one of these things and I'm very tempted to replace it pre-emptively before the thing decides to die on me out in the middle of the Coastal Range on a logging road some day.

That bulb is pretty common. I would be surprised if you couldn't find it locally.

Regarding the battery, how lucky do you feel?

I replaced my original battery on my '07 last year at somewhere around 175,000 miles. It was still working but reserve capacity was well down and I did not want to risk it on a camping trip somewhere. Battery was never on a tender and never failed to start my bike except for a couple times when I did something dumb like leaving the ignition turned on! (Over Winter, I will give the battery a "top-up" charge every couple of months if I leave it connected or disconnect the ground terminal and don't touch it until Spring.)

In my case, I could tell that capacity was (very) gradually dropping but quite often, a battery will fail catastrophically through a short or an "open" failure. One minute it is OK and the next it might be dead. Storage conditions, ambient temperatures, vibration, too many deep discharges, and luck are all factors. Over charging and charging too fast (> 2 amperes) will also kill a battery pretty quickly.

Edit to add: You don't really have to remove any Tupperware to change out a battery. Just the black panel that covers it - two Allen head bolts and one push-pin rivet. Then just the Allen screw that holds the battery clamp together and the two terminal screws. Might be easier with plastics removed but not necessary.

According to the Gen2 Bin O Facts:

"Front turn signal/position light: 12 V, 21 W/5.0 W × 2 (#7443 at auto stores, thanks OhioFJR1300)"

When you find out what it is, please come back and tell us!

I've replaced some bulbs on my '08 but not this particular one. Following this as well.