"Stock" handlebars adjustable v Storz adapter?

I read a couple threads here on the forum a few weeks back discussing the various choices for changing the stock bars to a trad steel handlebar, and in one of them someone mentioned, "The FJR bars are adjustable, you might want to try that out before spending bucks for a handlebar . . ." . . . ??? I didn't know that; the PO had changed the bars with something (not looking at it now) like a "Heli-bar" adapter?? which looks like a top of triple-tree mod that may move the bars in some way from stock, "up" and "back" or just "up"?? but keeping the stock bars and cables.

One of the single best things I ever did for my Concours was to change out of the stock bars and put a Storz adapter for a steel handlebar . . . made it handle like a motorcycle instead of a truck--had to extend the upper brake line to reach the new position/clutch hose worked OK. I still ride that bike one Sat and the FJR the next, and of late the FJR bar position in comparison, even with this Heli or Gen-mar adapter??, brings numbness and an almost loss of feeling to the hands . . . whereas the Storz Konk doesn't effect me that way at all . . . .

So, I have to assume that something about the position of the FJR bars is "non-friendly" . . . the distinction from having tried numerous bar adapters for the Konk is that many of them just "raised" the bars up, taking some weight off wrists, but keeping the arms straight and tensioning the neck/shoulder area. The Storz bar does a better job of bringing the bars **back** rather than up, leaving the elbows relaxed more; but, seems like Storz doesn't offer an adapter for the FJR?? I saw in one of the other bar threads someone mentioned "Spiegel"??? but they only show "2005" as the year for their adapter . . . is that the "same" for a '09 FJR?

Other question, I see on the present handlebars at the base there is a "panel" of metal that is attached by a single phillips screw, I'm assuming that if I open that panel there will be an allen head bolt or something like that, and perhaps that is where the handlebar can be rotated fore/aft on the axis . . . but not moved back from the rotation point??

If that is the case, would rotating the handlebars do something to the throttle cable adjustment/freeplay such that the freeplay would need to be messed with? Or, no worries, that wouldn't influence the throttle cable at all? My first bike was a Sabre 750 and on that bike the bars were semi-adjustable on rotation forward/back and nothing else had to be adjusted or fiddled with . . . just wondering if I could rotate the FJR bars a tad bit could the expense of doing the handlebar conversion be avoided?

Have to make some change to it . . . cheap, quick and dirty?? Or more spensive but more better?? Yet to be seen.

TIA

blkmbo

There are several positions possible with the stock handlebars with no additional parts required.



If none of these work for you, there are several "risers" available (Heli, MV Motorad), but you will likely need brake line extension. One thing that helped me was getting a slightly lower seat...

Regards,

Dan

@dcumpian:

Thanks for the post, looked through it, seems easy enough if I have a 2.5mm allen key somewhere . . . although I think the 09 has the phillips?? Have to check it out and see where it's set, I think the Heli triple clamp mod has already been done, so I don't know if that changes anything on the instructions or install.

Another question is, can you set the bar on the diag, rather than straight across #1, middle, or closest, can you jump from say left middle to right back? Part of the issue is the straight essentially 90 degree angle of the bars to the rider.

On the lower seat, I had the seat at the higher position, but it was just a tad too high for easy around town stop n go, so I went lower, I don't recall the extremity of the numbness problem in the higher position . . . so that is an easy adjustment, and that would make the bar "lower" . . . .

Hard to get a bike to be "perfect" for anything longer than a 20 min. ride . . . on the cheap . . . .

There is a way of routing the throttle cables, that is outlined in the Helibar instructions, where you remove the ABS brake lines where they attach to the frame, and run the throttle cables "inside" of them, which gives you an inch or two more movement. I assume if you have the helibars already installed this adjustment might already have been done.

There is also a way to get a little more play out of the clutch side hydraulic line, by removing one of the "ty-rap" type holders and pushing and pulling the line from where it enters the tank from the slave cylinder to where it exits the tank. This can give you another 1/2" to 1" for that line.

philter said:

There is a way of routing the throttle cables, that is outlined in the Helibar instructions, where you remove the ABS brake lines where they attach to the frame, and run the throttle cables "inside" of them, which gives you an inch or two more movement. I assume if you have the helibars already installed this adjustment might already have been done.
There is also a way to get a little more play out of the clutch side hydraulic line, by removing one of the "ty-rap" type holders and pushing and pulling the line from where . it enters the tank from the slave cylinder to where it exits the tank. This can give you another 1/2" to 1" for that line.

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@philter:

Thanks for the thoughts, have to see how this plays out . . . what is on there now is not the full "Heli-bar" dealie, but just something that changes the top piece of the triple tree? but the rest of the gear is stock . . . might have time this weekend to pop up the bar and see what is underneath it . . . and/or, raise the seat up again and see what difference that makes . . . ???

blakmambo said:

philter said:

There is a way of routing the throttle cables, that is outlined in the Helibar instructions, where you remove the ABS brake lines where they attach to the frame, and run the throttle cables "inside" of them, which gives you an inch or two more movement. I assume if you have the helibars already installed this adjustment might already have been done.
There is also a way to get a little more play out of the clutch side hydraulic line, by removing one of the "ty-rap" type holders and pushing and pulling the line from where . it enters the tank from the slave cylinder to where it exits the tank. This can give you another 1/2" to 1" for that line.

Click to expand...

@philter:

Thanks for the thoughts, have to see how this plays out . . . what is on there now is not the full "Heli-bar" dealie, but just something that changes the top piece of the triple tree? but the rest of the gear is stock . . . might have time this weekend to pop up the bar and see what is underneath it . . . and/or, raise the seat up again and see what difference that makes . . . ???

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blakmambo said:

The Helibar I am talking about is the same one you have, not the full one that they made earlier that took the place of the whole top tripleclamp. If you take the "one screw" cover off the handlebars, you can loosen the bolts and move the bars in or out. I also put a "normal" set of handlebar risers and put them "on top" of the helibars, using longer bolts, so I could get some extra height as well. I cannot use the little "covers" on mine, because of the aftermarket bolts but I am more into how things perform than how they look, so it doesn't bother me. If it did bother me, I would just drill and tap those bolts so I could put the "covers" back on. LOL

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philter said:

blakmambo said:

The Helibar I am talking about is the same one you have, not the full one that they made earlier that took the place of the whole top tripleclamp. If you take the "one screw" cover off the handlebars, you can loosen the bolts and move the bars in or out. I also put a "normal" set of handlebar risers and put them "on top" of the helibars, using longer bolts, so I could get some extra height as well. I cannot use the little "covers" on mine, because of the aftermarket bolts but I am more into how things perform than how they look, so it doesn't bother me. If it did bother me, I would just drill and tap those bolts so I could put the "covers" back on. LOL

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@philter:

Thanks for following along, so OK, sounds like we have the same deal, but you have some added shims under the bars. I had Gen-Mar risers on my Konk, which is essentially that same thing, shims . . . but it didn't get the bars back far enough the way the Storz conversion does--there is nothing like an actual "handlebar" as far as handling a motorcycle goes . . . .IMHO. : - )

But, since I have this situation now . . . any thoughts about your experience with the adjustment bosses, can you jump them on the diagonal to bring the bar ends in closer than the middle?? Or, they only work fore and aft via selecting one of the three pairs?

blakmambo said:

philter said:

blakmambo said:

The Helibar I am talking about is the same one you have, not the full one that they made earlier that took the place of the whole top tripleclamp. If you take the "one screw" cover off the handlebars, you can loosen the bolts and move the bars in or out. I also put a "normal" set of handlebar risers and put them "on top" of the helibars, using longer bolts, so I could get some extra height as well. I cannot use the little "covers" on mine, because of the aftermarket bolts but I am more into how things perform than how they look, so it doesn't bother me. If it did bother me, I would just drill and tap those bolts so I could put the "covers" back on. LOL

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@philter:

Thanks for following along, so OK, sounds like we have the same deal, but you have some added shims under the bars. I had Gen-Mar risers on my Konk, which is essentially that same thing, shims . . . but it didn't get the bars back far enough the way the Storz conversion does--there is nothing like an actual "handlebar" as far as handling a motorcycle goes . . . .IMHO. : - )

But, since I have this situation now . . . any thoughts about your experience with the adjustment bosses, can you jump them on the diagonal to bring the bar ends in closer than the middle?? Or, they only work fore and aft via selecting one of the three pairs?

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My understanding is the stock only allows movement forward and back. The plate from MV Motorad allows both forward/back and rotation up to 20 degrees.

https://www.mv-motorrad.de/en/MV+Handlebar+Adapter+Plate+Yamaha+FJR+1300+2013+Variant+AE+and+ES+with+Electric+suspension.htm

Regards,

Dan

dcumpian said:

My understanding is the stock only allows movement forward and back. The plate from MV Motorad allows both forward/back and rotation up to 20 degrees.

https://www.mv-motorrad.de/en/MV+Handlebar+Adapter+Plate+Yamaha+FJR+1300+2013+Variant+AE+and+ES+with+Electric+suspension.htm

Regards,

Dan

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@Dan:

Well, thanks for the link, that does look interesting, and more adjustable . . . have to check into the details of whether it matters if it's for 09 or '13 . . . etc.

I'd suggest, if the Storz conversion on your Connie did the deed (as mine did for me a long time ago) then the MV plate won't. It does not bring the bars back far enough for me, anyway, and my arms are still too stretched and I'm still leaned too far forward for non-sportbike riding behind a full fairing.
My bike came with the MV plate; I have plans to either change to the Heli plate or go full steel bars. The steel bar conversion will be more work and expense but one would hope the steel bars would kill some of the buzz- that relocation systems like the MV seem to make worse by adding leverage to the aluminum bar castings for the vibration to amplify. That, based on a bit of experimentation on my bike, still in the early stages.

Cherryriver said:

I'd suggest, if the Storz conversion on your Connie did the deed (as mine did for me a long time ago) then the MV plate won't. It does not bring the bars back far enough for me, anyway, and my arms are still too stretched and I'm still leaned too far forward for non-sportbike riding behind a full fairing.My bike came with the MV plate; I have plans to either change to the Heli plate or go full steel bars. The steel bar conversion will be more work and expense but one would hope the steel bars would kill some of the buzz- that relocation systems like the MV seem to make worse by adding leverage to the aluminum bar castings for the vibration to amplify. That, based on a bit of experimentation on my bike, still in the early stages.

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@Cherryriver:

Appreciate the post and the real life experience; hard to know the "why" of how things work or don't work, not sure if adding rotation adjust would actually increase vibration . . . but based upon the switch from the Konk ali bars to steel, that change did take out a significant amount of vibration/white noise in and of itself. Based on my experience with what I think is the "Heli" plate, not sure it will get you where it seems we both want to be. Seems like the plates are a "happy compromise" type of deal, "quick install, and no need to re-route or buy new brake lines, etc" . . . which is wonderful, but, for long term ownership and riding year after year . . . not so much. Seems like a lot of folks just have a "temporary" relationship with a bike and move on before things start to require care and maintenance of any seriousness . . . and for them perhaps the plates make sense, financially, and give some relief . . . .

Been busy lately but I do want to give the Storz guy a call in Ventura CA, about an hour away . . . possibly close to where I did my Bill Meyer Saddle creation and install process . . . the seat part of the "pegs, seat, bar" config is most excellon' . . . .

PS: Later that same day, FJR day, and before the ride I moved the seat back to the "high" position, and seemingly that did "help" in that it got me higher on the bars . . . due to very windy conditions I didn't get a long ride in, but, other than not getting the feet flat at stops,overall it seems "better" for me with the seat higher . . . . Unlike what Cherryriver was suggesting I don't find the bars to be buzzy (like the Konk was with OEM bars), the FJR is indeed "smooth" and "competent" . . . just that once you get the handlebar position better it's just a lot easier to ride. The issue with the FJR is what is likely massive torque being laid out with small adjustments of throttle in the canyons, and being in a better position on the bar could help keep all that power under control--tidiness is nxt to moto godliness, etc. We'll see; if the seat position gets it halfway done it'll probably suffice. Ah, on the "plate" that is installed on my 09 it just says "Tour performance" and then there is some "HRxxx" item number stamped; it looks like it is already slid back as far as it will go, as the back edge of the bar foot is hanging a bit over the back edge of the "platform" that the bar is bolted into . . . .

I bought my 2011 in August and rode it home 325 miles from Phoenix to Las Vegas. I hated the stock seat and didn't like the bars. Now I've gone to a Seat Concepts seat which is working out very well, and raised it to the high position. The bars are a little better now, but I still need rotation. The bars are in the right place if I tuck my elbows down low into my rib cage, but I don't ride that way, so I end up with a "twist of the wrist" to hold the grips, and after awhile, it's noticeably uncomfortable. I have a heli upper triple on it, so there's no rotational adjustment.

This is the route I'm going. Parts ordered, $250 shipped. We'll see how it goes.

This looks like it will fit US 2014 and newer bikes.

https://www.bikermart.co.uk/products/ABM-BASIC-YOKE-%26-RISER-KITS?sortby=5&filter=fj

FTL900 said:

I bought my 2011 in August and rode it home 325 miles from Phoenix to Las Vegas. I hated the stock seat and didn't like the bars. Now I've gone to a Seat Concepts seat which is working out very well, and raised it to the high position. The bars are a little better now, but I still need rotation. The bars are in the right place if I tuck my elbows down low into my rib cage, but I don't ride that way, so I end up with a "twist of the wrist" to hold the grips, and after awhile, it's noticeably uncomfortable. I have a heli upper triple on it, so there's no rotational adjustment.

This is the route I'm going. Parts ordered, $250 shipped. We'll see how it goes.

FTL900 said:

This looks like it will fit US 2014 and newer bikes.

https://www.bikermart.co.uk/products/ABM-BASIC-YOKE-%26-RISER-KITS?sortby=5&filter=fj

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@FTL900:

Thanks kindly for the post, that looks pretty good, can't remember if that item was posted here before, but it does look good and then I've always wanted a **centre stand** for my bike . . . looks like I could finally ticked that off of my bucket list, get rid of the OEM CS.

I think on your second post for >2014 that picture was showing their "fat bar" option for a bar 28+mm, but the regular bar conversion fits 2001 - 2012 models for a 22mm bar. And, they offer different bends; I know the bend that worked well for me on the Konk, but I haven't had time or inclination to figure out whether that Flanders bar would be as great as it is on the Konk--on the FJR? Is there a known bend that gets it done on the FJR? On my present Konk bar conversion we cut an inch off the end to get the stock clutch hoses to reach w/o changing it, and then no heavy bar-end weights, just some plastic units, no bar snake or such fillers and the vibes are "minimal" . . . . Question is, is there a "go-to" bend for the FJR that gets good relaxed arm position, but puts the bar in place to make turn-in easy? Your ABM link seems to offer "anonymous" bends mostly by finish rather than showing the bend . . . .

This path doesn't look like the cheapest path, but, then it might do for the FJR what it did for the olde Concours, and that would be worth it . . . .

I'm in the middle of putting an FZ1 back on the street and the bars are a little low for my taste. I've used the Renthal medium superbike bar on 3 other bikes and I like it a lot, so I'll order that for the FZ1, and before it goes on, I'll try it on the FJR.

That'll give me a frame of reference if I need taller bars, wider bars, more pullback, risers or whatever.

FTL900 said:

I'm in the middle of putting an FZ1 back on the street and the bars are a little low for my taste. I've used the Renthal medium superbike bar on 3 other bikes and I like it a lot, so I'll order that for the FZ1, and before it goes on, I'll try it on the FJR. That'll give me a frame of reference if I need taller bars, wider bars, more pullback, risers or whatever.

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@FTL900:

Thanks for the follow-up . . . You mentioned the FZ1, not sure if that bike comes with handlebar or "clip-on" style? A couple days back I was wondering whether other bikes that Yammie makes, like the twin 1200 "GS killer" whatever the name is, if that bike has a handlebar as "stock" offering, and whether the top triple clamp from one of their other bikes could "bolt on" to the FJR . . . for "cheaps" and then the various bar options could be applied, and possibly the upper brake lines and such would be "compatible" to changing the stock units to a good olde handlebar of choice???

On my Konk conversion we were able to use a top brake line from the Vulcan something of that era . . . before changing it to braided-steel a while after that to "improve" the basically **weak** brakes of the first gen Konk . . . . : - )

This is the first year FZ1, 2001, and it comes with tube bars, not clip-ons.

FTL900 said:

This is the first year FZ1 and it comes with tube bars, not clip-ons.

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@FTL900, etc:

Could those "tubes" be transferred from FZ1 over to the FJR . . . bolt-on . . . easy-peasy??

Probably not since I also have the heli bar top triple. I'll wait for that new top triple to get here, then order the Renthal bars for the FZ1, and try them on the FJR before installing them on the FZ1.

The cap on the FJR bars looks like this when removed. The small screw holds the cap on (my flat cap is missing on the left side), and the larger allen bolt removes the handlebar.