below 3000 rpm

My 2007 A, wont idle coughs and farts has to be revved like crazy to get it to go . Once I,m above 3 K the bike runs normal upto high speed I also have the altitude problem with the ECU I have ordered 4 new sync rubber caps and clips as the clips were missing hoping this might fix the poor idle problem .

Error codes?

Check for a 14 code...

Hi Ross , no idea how to access error codes, didn,t know you have this option please enlighten me, John

Thanks for the error code number, can you please tell how I access these codes

If you want to fix the altitude sickness order the service bulletin ECU - Yamaha Canada Part #90891-30055. USA ECU's won't work on a Canadian bike and the part # listed is way cheaper than a full list price ECU.

Also, check the battery. My 2006 ran like crap below 3000 rpm, and I eventually traced it to the battery.

Where are you in AB? I'd be happy to help you out if you are in the Calgary area.

The battery is three years old and I,m not sure how often I should be changing it. Also my bike is a USA model I called the office in California and quoted the tech bulletin # 2007-016 to them and my Vin # and she said they have no info on that bulletin and she couldn,t help me

I,m in Strathmore and I would love some help on this problem as it is driving me nuts

Are you new to the bike?

Does this happen all of the time or only occasionally?

Did it start suddenly or has it gradually gotten worse?

Did this start after any particular service? Throttle body synchronization (TBS) or valve clearance check/adjust.

USA model - California version or otherwise? The California version has a charcoal canister that can be problematic when the bike has been sitting for a time where conditions are especially hot but not usually a problem otherwise unless the "plumbing" is messed up.

The "Altitude sickness" issue is not a major problem except when making large altitude changes without making large changes in throttle position. Cycling the key will reset it and downshifting one or two gears may let you run a sufficiently different throttle position to get the ECU to re-read the pressure sensor. The problem is not operation at high altitude but relatively rapid altitude changes. LOTS of reading here:

https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php/topic/27244-fjrf004-the-20067-altitude-fix/

I had the OEM battery in my '07 (California version) for over ten years and around 180,000 miles (290,000 km) so there is no interval where you "should" change the battery. The battery does have to be good and the connections good or you may have running issues.

Here is a post on Diagnostic code access - from the factory service manual (FSM). Has both Gen I and Gen II info.

https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php/topic/9612-diagnostic-codes/?hl=++access+++diag+++code

This was a post I did on my issues with error code 14.

https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php/topic/170314-fault-code-14-gen-ii-solved/?hl=sensor

Does your bike have a Power Commander? Faulty PC III's (or dirty connectors or bad PC ground) have been known to cause problems.

Other than the above, there are possibilities with the following (in no particular order):

Bad plug(s)

Bad plug wire/connection(s)

Bad coil but running would be VERY bad - two cylinders run off each coil.

Bad (or partially plugged) fuel injector

Grounding issue - anything funky going on with dash lights or windshield motor? - high beam signal and (both) turn signal indicators staying on, in particular?

O2 sensor (not especially likely)

Fuel tank venting

Bad MAP sensor.

BAD vacuum leak

VERY bad TBS - note wire clips probably won't make a difference if the rubber caps are not cracked and leaking badly

I'll chime in again if anything else occurs to me...

Good luck!!

I have a 08 CPU that I bought for my 07, {thinking it might help the ON/OFF throttle problem}. It didn't help so I put the 07 CPU back on. You can buy it reasonably, {50 bucks shipped to you} if you need it.

As others have suggested, take the battery leads off, clean them even if they look good, clean them, clean the battery terminals, check the battery voltage, tighten everything back up. It is a quick and easy fix that should be done at least once a year.

Thanks for all the info to check from all of you , I am relatively new to the bike and have just joined the forum so this info is priceless to me . Looks like I will be busy working my way thru all the suggestions . thanks John .. message to Eagle Six I will definetly buy that cpu off you just tell me how to go about getting it

oops! the message about the cpu should have gone to PHILTER

Damn, I had an American recall ECU that I bought off EBay but it wouldn't work with my Canadian bike and I'm pretty sure I chucked it in the trash a few months ago. I'll check the FJR parts pile.

PM sent

I also sent a PM early this morning - hasn't been read (at least not in Messenger).

Note to JBfjr - you will get email notification of a PM as well as the text content but you have to reply via the Personal Messenger system in the Forum...

https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php/topic/150102-avoiding-doubletriple-postings/

I'm meeting with JBfjr this weekend to try to resolve his issues. Will post up the results. Anyone in the Calgary area is welcome to drop by.

Just back from Mr Canoe heads garage after spending close to 6 hrs working on my bike with Ian , many things were done and changed and I will let Mr canoe head clue you in on that in a separate posting ,so for now I would like to thank Ian very much for his time as my bike is now running 100 % better. John Bryson

Update for those who expressed interest:

1) No codes were present

2) We swapped in a brand new fully charged battery - no change.

3) We cleaned all the vac lines to the MAP sensor and swapped the sensor for a spare that I have - no change

3) Checked the TPS thoroughly, no issues that we could detect. It was slightly out of range at idle, showing 18 on the dash display, so we adjusted back to 16, also adjusted the throttle cable free play.

4) The bike was running very rich - in fact the exhaust and the plugs were completely sooted up:



5) We swapped out the plugs and cleaned the O2 sensor (we also swapped in my O2 sensor for S&G's but no change).

6) The TB sync was off, so we brought it back into sync and the bike was running much better. John was happy at this point, since getting the sync right made a big difference to how the bike was running.

But - there are still some issues:

We had to max out the idle speed adjuster to get to 1100rpm hot.

The bike is still running rich

The bike has a stumble just off idle

The bike doesn't seem to kick into fast idle when cold, it idles right around 1000rpm (or below)

Getting the sync was a struggle, since #3 air bleed adjuster made almost no change to the vacuum. I know that #3 is the one to use as a base (per the FSM) but I'd have liked to get all of the bleeds open a bit more to bring the idle more into spec at the middle of the adjuster range. I basically had to just balance everything to #3 as it was.

So, next steps - It'll be a few weeks til we can get together again:

Check for the Barbarian mod - I didn't think of this until John left but the super-rich low end could be because of that.

Clean out the air bleed circuits - I'm hoping this will help with both the idle speed and the fast idle speed. My plan is to use TB cleaner through the ports with the bleed screws turned out. I'm not crazy about removing the brass screws completely because of the difficulty in accessing them and the probability of losing them.

Clean the throttle bodies generally (?) - I'm guessing the off-idle stumble could be crud behind the throttle plates.

We could also try pulling the entire TB assy and replacing it with my spare, but that would be a lot of work.

I may have forgotten something that we did or may be missing something to look at. Suggestions/comments?

Almost sounds like the timing chain skipped a tooth on the crankshaft sprocket. When I did that at my first valve adjustment most of the symptoms you describe are spot on.