Stator replacement and wire routing

Ok, I installed a H/O stator about 12 years ago. On my last ride I lost electrical power and I limped the bike home. I traced the problem to the stator connections. I was lazy and didn't feel like fishing the wires up to the regulator and made a splice, that ultimately failed. I'm going to replace the stator with a new H/O unit. Can I run the wires on the OUTSIDE of the frame? I don't see why I can't and it will eliminate the need to splice the wires again. What say you?

I'd recommend running the wires in some loom - a protective tube - and using zip ties to snug that down. I have an excess of loom. PM me if you want some.

I can't help with your wiring but was curious about the ratings for an HO stator?

OP has a first Gen (05) which does not have as much overhead as 2nd Gens or later. The higher output stators for first Gens only make it similar to the output power of your stock 3rd Gen. Also worth mentioning that people seem to have more trouble with the higher output stators burning up than the OEM ones.

Best bet for first Gens is to get a dash mounted voltmeter and keep an eye on the regulator voltage at the battery terminals. When it starts dropping much below 12.8V running down the road you know you are drawing too much current to your accessories.

On my old 1st Gen, I used to be able to run 2 heattroller modulated, 90W jacket liners and two pairs of heated gloves, along with a set of LED aux lights and everything was OK. But turning on the heated grips or running halogen lights (before I got the LEDs) would draw too much. Now on my 3rd Gen I run all that stuff and more and dont even have a voltmeter.

To the OP, splices done correctly shouldnt be a problem. Make sure that you use correctly sized butt splices that have weatherproof heat-shrink insulation, and do a good job crimping them. You can also use uninsulated Butt splices, solder them in, and use weatherproof heat shrink tubing with the hot melt glue inside.

Fred W said:

OP has a first Gen (05) which does not have as much overhead as 2nd Gens or later. The higher output stators for first Gens only make it similar to the output power of your stock 3rd Gen. Also worth mentioning that people seem to have more trouble with the higher output stators burning up than the OEM ones.
Best bet for first Gens is to get a dash mounted voltmeter and keep an eye on the regulator voltage at the battery terminals. When it starts dropping much below 12.8V running down the road you know you are drawing too much current to your accessories.

On my old 1st Gen, I used to be able to run 2 heattroller modulated, 90W jacket liners and two pairs of heated gloves, along with a set of LED aux lights and everything was OK. But turning on the heated grips or running halogen lights (before I got the LEDs) would draw too much. Now on my 3rd Gen I run all that stuff and more and dont even have a voltmeter.

To the OP, splices done correctly shouldnt be a problem. Make sure that you use correctly sized butt splices that have weatherproof heat-shrink insulation, and do a good job crimping them. You can also use uninsulated Butt splices, solder them in, and use weatherproof heat shrink tubing with the hot melt glue inside.

Click to expand...

I did heat shrink the splices and everything seemed to work fine for about 12 years. When I took it apart I could see corrosion where the wires failed. I also noticed that the loom was brittle and had failed. I'll look into using better waterproofing and a better heat resistant loom. Thanks

12 years isn’t so bad for a repair to last. Most motorcycles Hardley last that long.

Think RayChem heat shrink. Waterproof and durable..