2006 Gen 2 problem after spark plugs change

Hi guys Im in a bit of a panic here as I planned to go for a long haul and hit some iron butt club certifications this following Thursday ,and now I have a problem

Bike is 2006 Gen2 26 000 ish miles NEVER a problem

I just changed the spark plugs thinking is going to be better but got worse , after changed the 4 spark plugs I was going to calibrate a throttle body sync tool before To proceed to the throttle body sync following the video by Bryan from two wheels obsession

Changed the plugs , tighten them at 13 newton as recommanded

Removed all the 4 small caps for the TBS , then I plugged the tool only to cylinder 1 to sync the tool as advised in the tool manual while the other caps were removed

I switched on the engine to sync the tool and a ticking sound started , never heard it before

Idle go up and down

Bike heated very quick , not at usual but not overheated

I switched it of and start to panic thinking about my trip

Please guys give me some advice tomorrow first hour I have to tow the bike to the dealer and see as I really would like to go on the long haul on Thursday and Im desperate as is my only 10 days Holliday of the year

Thanks guys for your future answers

Regards

Giorgio

You said, "I thought it was going to 'get better' but it got worse". Was there a problem before you changed the plugs?

Did you put in standard plugs or Iridium plugs?

Were you careful not to let something go down the plug hole when the plug was out?

IF THERE WAS A PROBLEM before you changed the plugs, what did the plugs look like that you took out? Were they all the same color?

Most problems, post spark plug replacement, are from two things, someone drops a plug and bends the outer tang and the gap is wrong, {once in a while one will come from the factory that way}, or someone messes up the plug wires when pulling them off the plugs.

If you start the bike cold, and let it idle and keep feeling the pipes as it warms up, and one stays cold or stays cold longer than the others, you will know which cylinder has a problem.

That's all I got, more sensible people will be along soon. Good luck.

ticking sound maybe injectors. You may not hear when the tank is down.

Thanks FJR brothers.

Is 4 am and cant sleep thinking about the long haul , humongous loop from NY to FL , LA and then going up to Duluth Minnesota and back to NY by Canada.

I maybe wrote wrong as Im a Frenchy !! !!! and think French before to write thats why I said i thought is going to get better we say like that back home.

I installed the NGK CR8E as advised on the manual.

Old plugs were all 4 in good used condition just a little dark but they looked more or less all the same color , I still have them but mixed them and dont know which one came out from where.

I was very careful on anything going down the plug hole , had some canned air and carefully blowed all the dust away before doing anything.

Maybe when I pulled the plug 3 ( plug 1 is on the left of the bike ) I pinched and gently pulled just under the wires at the base of the rubber cap with a long nose ,as I was pushing up from the bottom with a flat head screw driver , did this very carefully never slipped or any wrong movement.

Did I pinched and pulled and maybe disconnected the wires from where they were connected ? It didnt felt like , I dont know !??!

Before the plugs the bike was perfect , NO PROBLEMS AT ALL.

Before the plugs I installed an ohlins rear shock and racetech gold valve kit with the springs all by myself , did the fork modifications took me long long time following meticulously all the steps ,all went good and smooth.

I really hope the ticking sound is from the injectors , and everything gets back to normal when I lower the tank.

Ill start the bike with the lowered tank later this morning and see if theres symptoms of cold pipe , or anything unusual.

If the problem persists Ill have to take it to the dealer by 9 am and then go to work.

Thanks a lot FJR family For your time and patience

Giorgio, What type of Sync tool are you using? You said you pulled all 4 TBS plugs but only connected sync tool to cylinder 1. If that is correct that would leave cylinders 2,3,4 with a slight vacuum leak, which could cause erratic idling.

Did you run it with the sync tool disconnected and the TBS plugs back in place? If so did it run smoother? If you have a single vacuum gauge type sync tool, I would leave all non-connected TBS plugs in place while checking the one. Even better get a hold of a 4 cylinder sync tool.

Does the ticking sound get louder with increased RPM or does it stay consistent? With the tank up try blocking most of the light with a towel or something and see if there is any arcing from the spark plug area. Pull the spark plug boot back out from #3 cylinder to see if anything looks funky since that is the one you said you had trouble with. Make sure the boot is tight on the wire itself and there is no tears in the boot anywhere.

Did you do any valve clearance checking/adjusting recently? While the tank is up check the cam chain tensioner for a blue or green paint dot on the housing,if it does it means it has been replaced, which is good since the original was weak and starts making noises.

Before you do the above cold pipe test make sure all the TBS plugs are installed. If you have any motorcycle buddies near you with some mechanic experience a second pair eyes and ears could be of help.

That's all I have for now. Good luck, hope you figure it out.

kmanflyer said:

Giorgio, What type of Sync tool are you using? You said you pulled all 4 TBS plugs but only connected sync tool to cylinder 1. If that is correct that would leave cylinders 2,3,4 with a slight vacuum leak, which could cause erratic idling.
Did you run it with the sync tool disconnected and the TBS plugs back in place? If so did it run smoother? If you have a single vacuum gauge type sync tool, I would leave all non-connected TBS plugs in place while checking the one. Even better get a hold of a 4 cylinder sync tool.

Does the ticking sound get louder with increased RPM or does it stay consistent? With the tank up try blocking most of the light with a towel or something and see if there is any arcing from the spark plug area. Pull the spark plug boot back out from #3 cylinder to see if anything looks funky since that is the one you said you had trouble with. Make sure the boot is tight on the wire itself and there is no tears in the boot anywhere.

Did you do any valve clearance checking/adjusting recently? While the tank is up check the cam chain tensioner for a blue or green paint dot on the housing,if it does it means it has been replaced, which is good since the original was weak and starts making noises.

Before you do the above cold pipe test make sure all the TBS plugs are installed. If you have any motorcycle buddies near you with some mechanic experience a second pair eyes and ears could be of help.

That's all I have for now. Good luck, hope you figure it out.

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^^ Correct about the erratic idling with caps off. It should not make any sense to you to run with any of the caps off. Put them back on!

Plus, you CANNOT follow the video for your bike. His is a Gen3, yours is a Gen2, the designated "standard" is different. Please, get a Haynes manual before doing anything else. I've sent you a PM.

This is also why I never EVER do any maintenance for 2 weeks prior to any trip. Something always happens.

I have the motion pro sync tool the one with blue liquid , the one with 4 jauges , but couldnt sync the 4 jauges , the liquid is bubbly and look like theres air leaks on the brand new tool .

I run it with the sync tool connected and the other 3 caps disconnected, that why happens like this .

Ill put the caps back on and try to run it and see if theres arcing from the plugs area.

The ticking sound stayed consistant as I remember .

Valve clearance not yet as I planned to do it around 40K, What you guys think ?

Thanks Kmanflyer

Rbentnail thanks for the PM , I know RULE NUMBER ONE to NOT make any maintenance prior to big trips , but I was so exited after the suspension update !!! And knowing that I was doing a mistake . Silly me !!.

I followed the video knowing that It was a little different but definitely Ill get the HAYNES and start from there .

I keep you guys updated

I don't want to question your mechanical knowledge, but could the "ticking" sound be a "snapping" sound? Like the sound a gap in the spark plug wire makes when the spark jumps from the wire to the cylinder head? Just clutching at straws here. Congrats on your patience with us, with the situation, and with yourself.

Agree - it's running bad because its got 3 vacuum leaks. Bubbles in the manometer is likely because the 3 hoses not connected directly to the motor are open to the atmosphere?

Check each spark plug boot to ensure that it is flush with the cam cover. Also, make sure each wire plug is seated into the plug boot firmly. It's hard to imagine you were able to cross any of those wires.

Which cylinder is the reference cylinder for the Gen 2?

The M/P gage comes with a 5 way "T" fitting and a short piece of hose. Connect one end of the short piece of hose to the reference cylinder, the other end to one of the 5 fittings on the T. Connect each of the 4 hoses from the manometer to the other 4 fittings on the T.

Make sure the cap is on the other 3 cylinders and start the bike. Allow it to come to operating temperature and then use a screwdriver to even out all 4 manometers - you are calibrating the manometer against the reference cylinder.

Now remove the short hose and the 5-way T fitting. Connect 1-4 manometer hoses to each of the cylinders. Start the bike - operating temperature.

IMPORTANT!!!! IMPORTANT!!!!! IMPORTANT!!!!!

DO NOT TOUCH THE REFERENCE CYLINDER ADJUSTMENT SCREW ON THE THROTTLE BODY.

Instead, bring the other 3 down or up so that they meet the reference cylinder. Blip the throttle a couple of times and ensure that all 4 return to the same vacuum level.

Shut the bike down, remove the hoses, replace the caps on the t/b's. Restart the bike - runs great, no? Sure- I knew it would.

Now go pack - and don't forget your camera. Ride report due upon your return!!!

The Motion Pro should work great. Connect all 4 hoses to the TBS stubs at the same time. Depending on were you hang the sync tool, orient the hoses 1-4 so can easily identify what cylinder the gauge is reading while your adjusting things, so you don't get confused. Gen 1 & 2 use cylinder #3 as the base to adjust the others (1,2,4) to. Set the idle speed (1100 rpm), readjust as you make changes to individual air screws. Don't rev the engine too high or with sudden throttle movements, could suck the fluid into engine.

Sorry I was typing when philter and hppants were replying. Apparently the M/P gauge itself has calibration procedures involving the 5 way tee, as hppants is describing. A snapping sound as philter said is a good description of spark arcing, and would constitute further investigation of the S/P boots and wires for proper connection and install as hppants described.

After the M/P sync tool is calibrated as per there instructions, the Gen 1&2 #3 base/reference cylinder is non adjustable, so just adjust 1,2,4 to that one. Gen 3 has a paint mark on the reference cylinder and could vary (1-4) with each bike, so I've read. I wished I could type faster so I wouldn't have to post twice.

I'll all work out.

Guys here Im again with good news .

I put back the rubber caps and tested the bike again checked if theres some fire works around the SP caps while running , good news bike idled fine and both pipes were heating the same , no more ticking sound at all .

My TBS tool is out of order the bubbles dont go away looks like the liquid does not settle properly , Ill check that out when Im back .

Ill do the THS once I get back , LOL !! the master throttle body is the #3 on the generation 2 and Thanks to you guys I have good knowledge now on how to proceed .

The forum shows me again that when somebody has a problem all the persons with knowledge joins forces and tells you all the scenario possible and then you can go ahead and analyze better .

Im often just cruising around the forum and read stuffs here and there , in the future Ill go ahead and get more knowledge on how to repair my bike , the FJR is a well built machine and Im proud of owning one

Some stupids told me thats an ugly bike !!! Stupidity does not have nationality !! Hahahahaha .

Thanks to all for being patient with me .

The haul is going to happen and Im very happy , Ill post pics for you guys

Thanks a lot from Frenchy .

There is no relevance with both pipes heating the same. The FJR exhaust is four-into-one-into-two. If there is a difference in heating (or flow) between the two pipes, it is a function of some sort of restriction in the exhaust can - not something happening at the engine.

RossKean said:

There is no relevance with both pipes heating the same. The FJR exhaust is four-into-one-into-two. If there is a difference in heating (or flow) between the two pipes, it is a function of some sort of restriction in the exhaust can - not something happening at the engine.

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In my defense, I meant for him to check the heat/cold on each of the four downpipes not the two mufflers. LOL

philter said:

RossKean said:

There is no relevance with both pipes heating the same. The FJR exhaust is four-into-one-into-two. If there is a difference in heating (or flow) between the two pipes, it is a function of some sort of restriction in the exhaust can - not something happening at the engine.

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In my defense, I meant for him to check the heat/cold on each of the four downpipes not the two mufflers. LOL

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That makes sense but not the two exhaust pipes. I have tried to use an IR thermometer to look at downpipe temperatures and found it quite difficult to get consistent readings. A contact thermocouple might work better than an IR system.

jalingo said:

My TBS tool is out of order the bubbles dont go away looks like the liquid does not settle properly , Ill check that out when Im back .

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Best way, IMHO, to rid yourself of those bubbles. https://www.carbtune.com/

"Stupidity does not have nationality !! Hahahahaha ." Truer words were never spoken!

Don't feel bad as every single person on here has screwed up something on their bikes by now due to lack of knowledge. Glad you got it figured out.

lonerider said:

jalingo said:

My TBS tool is out of order the bubbles dont go away looks like the liquid does not settle properly , Ill check that out when Im back .

Click to expand...

Best way, IMHO, to rid yourself of those bubbles. https://www.carbtune.com/

Click to expand...

Thanks for the link I will get riding the bubbles

BkerChuck said:

"Stupidity does not have nationality !! Hahahahaha ." Truer words were never spoken!
Don't feel bad as every single person on here has screwed up something on their bikes by now due to lack of knowledge. Glad you got it figured out.

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Hi BkerChuck I’m glad you like my sentence, I learn more and more about the FJR daily ,I’m in FL right now , started my trip from where I was supposed to end it !!!

The weather is fantastic !!!!!!!!