Took delivery, YIKES!!!

Hi everyone:

So I rode home my new toy yesterday, a whole mile from the stealership. To begin with, oil is overfilled, and gas tank (dealer claimed was full) was bone dry when he said goodbye.

Okay on to the start, at every bump in the road, I felt a "klunk" in the front end, which I am guessing is the steering head bearings not torqued down. I think I need to go through everything and verify this thing is safe to drive. Taking it back to the dealer is not an option, since I do not trust them (mechanically) as far as I can throw them. After reading all the problems and cures, besides greasing and retorquing the steering head, greasing the drive spline & suspension bushings, what else do you guys recommend?

Should I be checking everything up front? I don't have the drive tool for the front wheel, nor do I have a manual for it yet.

Thanks everyone,

Jimbo

:dribble:

Jim Dandy said:

Hi everyone:So I rode home my new toy yesterday, a whole mile from the stealership. To begin with, oil is overfilled, and gas tank (dealer claimed was full) was bone dry when he said goodbye.

Okay on to the start, at every bump in the road, I felt a "klunk" in the front end, which I am guessing is the steering head bearings not torqued down. I think I need to go through everything and verify this thing is safe to drive. Taking it back to the dealer is not an option, since I do not trust them (mechanically) as far as I can throw them. After reading all the problems and cures, besides greasing and retorquing the steering head, greasing the drive spline & suspension bushings, what else do you guys recommend?

Should I be checking everything up front? I don't have the drive tool for the front wheel, nor do I have a manual for it yet.

Thanks everyone,

Jimbo

:dribble:

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A little part of me (no jokes please) says that you really should call up the dealer and afford them the opportunity to make this right. Just my 2 cents.

It sucks that your first riding experience wasn't as sweet as it should have been.

There is a list in the Bin o' Facts in the FAQ of things you should check. The ones that come to mind that you haven't listed are, make sure the bag locks are loc-tited on, make sure you get the 'spare' bag lock that will fit the top case should you add one, the bag liners should be included with the bags for free (in the USA).

You don't need the special axle tool to check the front wheel, you can use the back end of a spark plug socket with an extension stuck in from the opposite end. You will, however, need a special tool for the steering head. Search the forum and you will find a couple of options.

I agree that the dealer should be notified and given the opportunity to resolve all your issues, but you still should check everything after he is done with it. It couldn't hurt to take the list with you when you go.

Jim,

I feel your pain. I have a local dealer here that I bought the bike from that has nothing but a bunch of immature, irresponsible, incompetent freaks working for him that I wouldn't trust to put air in the tires. Do as GEEZER says and check out the Bin O' Facts for the things to look for and deal with them yourself.

Jim,

Where exactly in upstate NY are you?

I don't think steering head bearings are part of the setup, so if they're off, you probalby have a factory assembly problem. Or.... is the bike a demo or has seen demo service? I've seen some dealer demos with 100 miles which have trashed front-ends due to botched wheelies.

- Mark

hey there Jim D., frankly, I doubt yer steering head bearings are loose. I have a new `07 myself and the front end clunks. Guess where it`s coming from?! The brake rotors. I lifted the front end off the ground and grabbed the forks to check the head bearings...no play. Then I grabbed both rotors as if i was trying to spin the wheel back and forth...clunk clunk. Yep, definitely the rotors...no big deal, they will settle in. :clapping:

i have 05 i have that clunk to. Its the head bear. Dealer said they would fix next service... well just hit my 12K today guess its time for a tune up..

Jdog

v65 said:

Jim,Where exactly in upstate NY are you?

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Little village Scotia, Right next to Schenectady, 10 miles North of Albany, if that makes it any clearer. :blink:

markjenn said:

I don't think steering head bearings are part of the setup, so if they're off, you probalby have a factory assembly problem. Or.... is the bike a demo or has seen demo service? I've seen some dealer demos with 100 miles which have trashed front-ends due to botched wheelies.
- Mark

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The bike was brandy-spanking new 0.1 miles. I think I will check the rotors to verify, as CONWEST said. Been working all weekend, haven't had a chance to even look at it? Monday will hopefully strighten everything out!

Thanks to all!!!

Just do it yourself. I know there are competent technicians out there but finding one is close to impossible. They are out numbered about a hundred to one. I was fortunate to have a good tech set mine up. When I asked to have the side bag locks loctited, he said he had already done it, as it was in the assembly instructions from Yamaha. Wow, the guy read the book! And also, my bike had 6 miles on it as they would not release it until it was test driven. Which even caused a delivery delay due to rain. They even wiped my tires down with something to get rid of the wax.

Pretty good service actually. But when I went back for more work they wanted $500 to replace 2 tires so that ends that love affair.

Do it yourself, and if you don't know how learn from someone. You'll be better off in the long run.

It's likely that the steering stem nut is not tightened to specification. This nut is installed by the dealer's assembler. The recommended torque is 85 lb-ft.

Jim Dandy said:

Little village Scotia, Right next to Schenectady, 10 miles North of Albany, if that makes it any clearer. :blink:

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Just curious because the steering head requires a special tool, which I have. Unfortunately, at least until Americade, the closest I will be to you is Syracuse.

v65 said:

Jim Dandy said:

Little village Scotia, Right next to Schenectady, 10 miles North of Albany, if that makes it any clearer. :blink:

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Just curious because the steering head requires a special tool, which I have. Unfortunately, at least until Americade, the closest I will be to you is Syracuse.

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I have the steering head tool. If the weather is reasonable this weekend I may be riding up your way.

Constant Mesh said:

This nut is installed by the dealer's assembler. The recommended torque is 85 lb-ft.

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Are you sure of this? When I saw the setup instructions for my 2005, I don't recall anything about settting up the steering head.

- Mark

Constant Mesh & markjenn: clarification -- the FJR comes crated with the steering head bearings set and the adjustment ring-nuts locked. But, the steering stem nut, the dome nut, the one you can see front & center -- does need to be properly tightened upon assembly.

Yes, I was referring to the large nut above the steering head upper bracket. I think a crating component is attached to the bike at this location.

So the assembler has to install this nut to its proper torque. Also the assembler has to install the front wheel and torque the axle, pinch bolt/s, wheel speed sensor, and caliper bolts to their proper torques.

I just need a spanner wrench to adjust the lock nut, correct? I have a set of these from adjusting my sleds over the years, but there is no way measure torque with them.

I thought the head bearings were ball bearings, hence they would just be tightened a bit to seat them, backed off, then snugged up?

So I have to remove the top triple tree and support the clip ons while I do this. Anything else I need to know?

Damn, I have to order the service manual soon!

Thanks everyone,

Jimbo

Constant Mesh said:

Yes, I was referring to the large nut above the steering head upper bracket. I think a crating component is attached to the bike at this location.
So the assembler has to install this nut to its proper torque. Also the assembler has to install the front wheel and torque the axle, pinch bolt/s, wheel speed sensor, and caliper bolts to their proper torques.

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When I got mine home from the dealer in April of 06, the front axle bolt was only on by two threads. Check everything you can get a wrench on yourself. You'll sleep better at night. PM. <><

I just need a spanner wrench to adjust the lock nut, correct? I have a set of these from adjusting my sleds over the years, but there is no way measure torque with them.

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Well thats part of the trick, the spanner wrench is machine specific. Not only do you need the size of the nut you need the distance from the center of the nut to the hole for the torque wrench to get the proper torque.

Check this thread for the correct wrench.