Fuel Stabilizer

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frayne

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Back in Ohio my bike use to sit for months on end during the winter months with little or no riding. I use to put in some fuel stabiler for obvious reasons. Since moving to the Chattanoogae area I get more riding time but it still may take a month or two to go through a tank of gas. I always keep it topped off so I was just wondering if there really is a need to put any fuel stabilizer in the tank. What are everyone's thoughts, appreciate and and all responses.

 
I've had mixed results and feelings about fuel stabilizer. I do use it, but have still had problems with carbs on bikes and motorized equipment that are not used very often. Like you, a tank of fuel on my FJR may last a month or so and I do not use any stabilizer in it. Conversly, I am pulling the carb off a Virago 250 that has sat for six months with fuel stabilizer in it as the low speed jets are plugged the same as if not stabilized.

I have noticed an increase in the problem after we went to 10% ethanol down here, but don't feel like that is a big contributor to the problem after the first tank or so.

I really don't think that it hurts a darn thing to use the stuff, and it should give you some piece of mind, but as to its effectiveness on injected motors, I'll defer to some of the others.

Have fun!

 
I put in my tank during the winter months just to be on the safe side. I guess it works. I have not ever had any problems using it, so I guess it works. When in doubt, use it.

 
And away we go!!!!!!!

Sea foam, two cycle oil, sta-bil, goat piss. I don't believe a consensus was ever reached regarding this topic. :blink:

:jester:

 
I feel that Sta-Bil protection makes a real difference on carburetor machines; I cannot notice a difference on injected bikes.

On my FJR1300 , my BMW R1150RT and my BMW R1100GS it doesn't make a bit of difference whether I add fuel stabilizer.

On my machines with carburetors: Harley-Davidson FXD Super Glide, Kawasaki KLR650 and Mercury four-stroke outboard I feel that Sta-Bil reduces dealing with plugged low speed jets. We've 10% ethanol here in Arizona, it does cause problems!

 
I use it in all my toys that sit for extended periods of time. Seems to work.

I have never had any issues

 
Fuel doesn't go bad in a few months, it takes more like a year or two before a full tank of gas will start to turn bad.

If you are leaving only a small amount of fuel in the tank, say less then 1/8 tank, then yes the varnish will come quick as it slowly evaporates. But not in just 3 or 4 months. Store your bike with a full tank of fresh fuel during the winter months, you will not have any problems nor will you need to add anything to the fuel.

 
I've had so many problems with crapped up carburetors on my dirt bikes that I put Sta-Bil in every jug I fill no matter what time of year it is. 2 or 3 months of storage without stabilizer and I'm guaranteed plugged jets. Fuel lasts a year or two???? Must be a New Jersey thing...

 
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I've had so many problems with crapped up carburetors on my dirt bikes that I put Sta-Bil in every jug I fill no matter what time of year it is. 2 or 3 months of storage without stabilizer and I'm guaranteed plugged jets. Fuel lasts a year or two???? Must be a New Jersey thing...

Full tank of gas will stay good for at least a year.

2 classic cars and three classic bikes with no fuel stabilizer.

I run at least a tank through each/year.

 
there was a top ten list of things to do for winter storage. 1 was to use stabilizer's, 2 was to start it every month so the injectors/carbs dont foul or gum up. I guess forcing fuel thru the jets /injectors flushes the small amount thats just starting to gum/varnish

If I find it (the list) I'll post it. twas from a bike mag editor

 
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there was a top ten list of things to do for winter storage. 1 was to use stabilizer's, 2 was to start it every month so the injectors/carbs dont foul or gum up.If I find it (the list) I'll post it. twas from a bike mag
I'm thinking this must be related to carby bikes, as fuel injectors won't gum from sitting since there is no air, and without air the fuel will not evaporate.

I use the Stabil in the lawnmower in the winter and the snow blower in the summer and it don't go in the mo'sickles.

 
I'm thinking this must be related to carby bikes, as fuel injectors won't gum from sitting since there is no air, and without air the fuel will not evaporate.

Is there a chemist in the house? Wondering if gasoline has an oxigen molicule in its make up, (I sure dont know, ask me about beer).

well seems I didnt save the original top 10 list, heres another:

https://www.motorcyclecruiser.com/tech/wint...rage/index.html

 
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I've had so many problems with crapped up carburetors on my dirt bikes that I put Sta-Bil in every jug I fill no matter what time of year it is. 2 or 3 months of storage without stabilizer and I'm guaranteed plugged jets. Fuel lasts a year or two???? Must be a New Jersey thing...
I'm with henchman on this one.....All three dirt bikes and two personal watercraft fuel jugs all get Sta-bil in every fill-up. As far as my FJR....out here in sunny Kalifornia...I ride at least every two weeks during the winter and more often in the summer. No need for any fuel additive here! ;)

 
Fuel doesn't go bad in a few months, it takes more like a year or two before a full tank of gas will start to turn bad.

Man, that statement is about as wrong as wrong can be. Part of the fuel evaporates off and leaves the paraffins to gum up the works.

Modern fuel goes bad in less than two months and I have the gummed up carburetor on a '66 Chevelle SS-396 to prove it.

 
When I was working in the marine world it seems that I remember a service notice from OMC saying that if the fuel was over 90 days old to dispose of it.

I use Sea Foam year around and have for years. Its a good product.

All these opinions are like ass holes in that we all have them and tend to use them but sometimes it is just shit. :D

 
Fuel doesn't go bad in a few months, it takes more like a year or two before a full tank of gas will start to turn bad.
Man, that statement is about as wrong as wrong can be. Part of the fuel evaporates off and leaves the paraffins to gum up the works.

Modern fuel goes bad in less than two months and I have the gummed up carburetor on a '66 Chevelle SS-396 to prove it.
+1 The larger the volume the longer it takes. The problem is not in the tank but in the small areas of the carbs/throttle bodies where the volume is very small. ...my .02

 
Fuel doesn't go bad in a few months, it takes more like a year or two before a full tank of gas will start to turn bad.If you are leaving only a small amount of fuel in the tank, say less then 1/8 tank, then yes the varnish will come quick as it slowly evaporates. But not in just 3 or 4 months. Store your bike with a full tank of fresh fuel during the winter months, you will not have any problems nor will you need to add anything to the fuel.
I'm with 'Afast03nNJ' on this: the really bad gas I've seen has been in bikes that have been ignored for a really long time -- like @ least a year. And...chemical reactions in general really slow down when cold. Also, I'm not much of a fan of 'additives'....

'FJRay': When I was working in the marine world it seems that I remember a service notice from OMC saying that if the fuel was over 90 days old to dispose of it.
Once you mix oil with the gas -- you may have something different, altogether, going on? Also, if you dispose of it (how you do dat?); you've no need for additives.....

I will offer: if you start and run your bike infrequently? -- it'd be a good idea (imo) to stop by a gas station and 'sweeten' the supply in your tank with a gallon, or so, of fresh stuff.

The best, of course, for your FJR (and, almost any bike): is to ride it to Minot -- and "don't spare the horses".... :D

 
Oh, the myths about fuel...some of you still probably thing hgiher octane = higher power as well ;)

It's really simple. Fuel has three major issues relating to storage.

1. Fuel will oxidize over time, reducing the effective octane level. This is only a problem if you reach a certain level detrimental to your engine. On carbed engines this can mean leaning out and a burn down. On injected engines it can mean pulled timing or non-running. The oxidation process is significantly slower under the pressure of a fuel injection system.

2. Fuel will also gum over time, however pressure greatly slows this process down. Hense, also on injected engines, where the fuel system is high pressure after the fuel pump, it lasts much longer.

3. Moisture - under the right circumstances such as a low level tank, and temperature differentials, condensation will form on the inside of the tank, introducing water to the fuel supply.

There is no downside to using a stabilizer if you think you need it.

 
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