Oil pan replacement?

I need some questions answered about changing the oil pan on an 06 FJR. Is it possible to change out the oil pan w/ out removing the headers? Looks like it will be pretty close. Any other issues to be concerned with. If anybody has any experience with changing this out please feel free to chime in.

BTW, I did search but didnt come up with anything. Sorry if this has already been addressed.

Thanks in advance

I know that a couple of guys have knocked fins off while loosening the drain plug. I don't recall anyone mentioning an answer to your question.

My immediate thought is that the headers will at least have to be loosened. The pan has to drop in order to clear the oil pickup which is in the deepest part of the pan near the bottom. From the diagrams in the service manual it looks like the pan has to drop it's own depth to clear the pickup.

That being said, you might be able to loosen the headers at the rear and undo the flange nuts thus allowing them to "rock" down. I assume you are trying to circumvent having to pull the radiator, but I think you can probably loosen the bottom and swing it forward enough to reach the eshaust header flanges.

Er...uhm...paging Radman or Warchild. FJRay? Anyone?. To the white courtesy keyboard, please.

You might use this Google link: oil pan site:fjrforum.com for more information.

madmike2 said:

You might use this Google link: oil pan site:fjrforum.com for more information.

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AAaaahhhh...... I see. Never thought to use google. Thanks. I looked through some of those posts. Still, nobody says one way or the other. If its like you say( and Im sure it is) then I suspect that the headers will have to be more than loosened. Does the removal of the headers require the radiator to be removed?

The radiator is in front of the headers. As I said, you might be able to loosen the top bolts and remove the bottom bolts allowing the radiator to swing up enough to get to the header flange bolts. Then again, it might be just a easy to remove the radiator....I dunno.

madmike2 said:

The radiator is in front of the headers. As I said, you might be able to loosen the top bolts and remove the bottom bolts allowing the radiator to swing up enough to get to the header flange bolts. Then again, it might be just a easy to remove the radiator....I dunno.

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It would be a neat trick to remove the radiator without removing some plastic on an '06 ...

I was able to swap the headers on my Gen I without pulling or draining the radiator.

v65 said:

madmike2 said:

The radiator is in front of the headers. As I said, you might be able to loosen the top bolts and remove the bottom bolts allowing the radiator to swing up enough to get to the header flange bolts. Then again, it might be just a easy to remove the radiator....I dunno.

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It would be a neat trick to remove the radiator without removing some plastic on an '06 ...

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I suppose I thought THAT was assumed since we weren't discussing a step-by-step procedure, starting with "turn off the key, put down the side stand, Put the bike on the center stand. Remove the dash panels and disconnect the battery, etc., etc., etc., ad infinitum.

I thought it was obvious that certain preliminary steps would be taken before one arrived at the point of actually removing vital internal pieces, like: Drain the oil before removing the oil pan.

Yep you will need to drop the headers. To do the pan with the engine still in, you can take the lower radiator supports off and push it forward as you take the header nuts off. I think I had to remove one of the horns also. You will have to get creative with socket extensions, universal joints to get angles that you can retorque them when putting back. Yees you will need to remove both lowers to get teh access you need.

Rogue said:

I was able to swap the headers on my Gen I without pulling or draining the radiator.

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That answers one question. Thanks. Still waitin on somebody whos done the job......... I know youre out there....

I had to change one out... check it out here

https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php?s...p;hl=bbailey925

Sorry couldn't make the "clicky" feature work.

bbailey925 said:

Yep you will need to drop the headers. To do the pan with the engine still in, you can take the lower radiator supports off and push it forward as you take the header nuts off. I think I had to remove one of the horns also. You will have to get creative with socket extensions, universal joints to get angles that you can retorque them when putting back. Yees you will need to remove both lowers to get teh access you need.

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Thanks, thats the info I didnt want to hear but needed. When I originally posted here I wasnt expecting a response about removing the fairings. While appreciated I would think that was a given.

Thanks for the help!!!

Not quite sure why you need to change the pan but if the drain plug being stripped is the problem it can be repaired in place. I stripped mine a few years ago and Heil-coiled it in place and have had no problems.

FJRay said:

Not quite sure why you need to change the pan but if the drain plug being stripped is the problem it can be repaired in place. I stripped mine a few years ago and Heil-coiled it in place and have had no problems.

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Unless he hit something with it, like bbailey did, and cracked the pan. I broke a pan on the '04 whe I hit a chunk of asphalt kicked up by a boat trailer I was following (toooo close...Doh!). Thre were other damages, so I had the insurance company fix it.

madmike2 said:

I suppose I thought THAT was assumed since we weren't discussing a step-by-step procedure, starting with "turn off the key, put down the side stand, Put the bike on the center stand. Remove the dash panels and disconnect the battery, etc., etc., etc., ad infinitum.
I thought it was obvious that certain preliminary steps would be taken before one arrived at the point of actually removing vital internal pieces, like: Drain the oil before removing the oil pan.

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Jeez Mikey I was just commenting on the cascade of crap that has to be removed to get to the oil pan, not on your reply. No need to get mad or nothin'. :lol:

v65 said:

Jeez Mikey I was just commenting on the cascade of crap that has to be removed to get to the oil pan, not on your reply. No need to get mad or nothin'. :lol:

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I could have let it slide....I just didn't. Many of us have been riding "faired" bikes for years, as opposed to others who've been riding "cruisers". I understand that fairing removal is part-and-parcel of any repair work (Even on my XS1100 w/side cases and a WIndjammer).

I jumped to the wrong conclusion when I read your post and I didn't pick-up on the humor.

Thanks for the input. I had mentioned the heli coil option but he wasnt to keen on it. Cant say I blame him. I'd rather have the piece of mind knowing that there wont be any future problems. Anyways, he's gonna let somebody else do the work. Thanks again for all of the help!!! :thumbsupsmileyanim:

I posted this once before. If you can score the old oil pan I will take it and repair it for free and it will be ready to ship to the next person that needs it. That way there is always a spare around ready to be sent out. Just a thought.

A Heli-Coil is a permanent repair.

FJRay said:

I posted this once before. If you can score the old oil pan I will take it and repair it for free and it will be ready to ship to the next person that needs it. That way there is always a spare around ready to be sent out. Just a thought.A Heli-Coil is a permanent repair.

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Ray,

Please point me to the correct heli-coil kit for an '06. I don't want to go through the exercise of removing the pan.

JohnB said:

FJRay said:

I posted this once before. If you can score the old oil pan I will take it and repair it for free and it will be ready to ship to the next person that needs it. That way there is always a spare around ready to be sent out. Just a thought.A Heli-Coil is a permanent repair.

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Ray,

Please point me to the correct heli-coil kit for an '06. I don't want to go through the exercise of removing the pan.

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I am assuming they are all the same. My book says 14mm and the pitch should be 1.25. For a one time use the kit is going to be spendy. It is the same thread as an automotive 14mm spark plug. I would look around various auto shops to see if somebody has a kit and then bang out a deal to use it. If all else fails then most any decent parts house can get one for you.