Wilbers Rear Preload

The shock feels great! I am concerned about the preload though, 5 clicks gives me 30 mm sag by myself, but I have to go 20 (out of 22) clicks with SO and NO gear to get 50mm sag, sounds like the spring may be weak, (she just aint that big!) The sheet says the spring is a 59/59-100-165??? I had told them FULLY loaded we ran about 450 lbs. Does that sound right?

Also the sheet gave an adjustment range, and a total range (22 clicks), are they implying one should not stray outside the normal range?

Of the previous group buy, some had to return theirs for stiffer springs. Seems that the factory put the wrong ones on or the customer gave the wrong info or both. :dntknw:

Also the sheet gave an adjustment range, and a total range (22 clicks), are they implying one should not stray outside the normal range?

Click to expand...

Are you referring to clicks on the remote preload or clicks on the rebound/compression damping adjustment?

I think it was refering to both, it gave an adjustment range,(12 clicks) and a total range (22 clicks) for 2 seperate adjustments, I don't have the sheet here but I'm sure it was refering to rebound and preload.

I think it was refering to both, it gave an adjustment range,(12 clicks)  and a total range (22 clicks) for 2 seperate adjustments, I don't have the sheet here but I'm sure it was refering to rebound and preload.

Click to expand...

I was asking what you are adjusting 20 of 22 clicks with SO and gear to get 50mm of sag. Are you adjusting the remote preload (if you have one) or the damping knob?

Mine came with a 59/59-130-150 spring set at 13 out and it's real close for our combine weight of 465. Needed to give it 2 added clicks of rebound and 1 more preload. Still playing with the front though. Getting there. Just bought a GIVI trunk today at Daytona and I think I'm going to need another click preload now on the rear. We'll see. Going to play with it for a while. Rides pretty good the way it is!

My first Wilbers spring was a 95N/mm. Too soft. Klaus replaced the spring with a 110 N/mm. (My riding weight with full gear is 186 lbs.) See previous post.

I'm just beginning to play with the sag settings on the reinstalled shock, so I don't have reliable numbers yet, but the rear suspension is much improved with the stronger spring. I'll post some comparitive measurements and riding impressions in the next couple of weeks if this weather holds.

MC, The remote preload adjuster is what I am referring to, it's a very slick set-up, maybe just to weak a spring for us though.

MC, The remote preload adjuster is what I am referring to, it's a very slick set-up, maybe just to weak a spring for us though.

Click to expand...

If you are using all the adjustment in the remore preload then you need a heavier spring. It is possible to remove the shock and add additional preload but it looks like you have a 100N/mm spring which seems far too light for a 450 lb load. When I ordered my Wiblers I wanted to be sure that I did not get too light of spring and specified that I wanted 25 mm of dynamic sag with no preload for a 240 pound rider, with a total possible load of 440 pounds. I have a 115N/mm spring which seems to meet the criteria. The other thing to keep in mind is that springs weaken over time so it is better to error on the high side. You need to talk to Klaus and see what his logic was in selecting your spring but it sounds like you are going to have to send the shock back.

Got some interesting information from Wilbers (Klaus) today regarding the rear shock spring. I will use my spring to illustrate the numbers. I am about 200lb ready to ride.

95/95 diameter related numbers (not clear)

95 Spring rate Nmm

165 Spring free length mm

AA 328 mm Eye to eye length of shock

This brings up an interesting issue. The 165mm variable, in combination with the spring rate, will make a big difference on the initial force mobilized by the spring and can't be neglected. In other words, it is not only about spring rate. A shorter spring will evidently start at a lower force than a longer spring.

I tried to call Klause yesterday but he is out for another week, the guy I spoke with was completely dismissive about my concern, implying they can't make a shock heavy enough for a 2 up load and still be adequate for a solo rider... whatever!

I try Klause back next week.

I'm not overly impressed with the Wilbur's distributor with my fork springs. I won't go into detail, but when I replace my rear shock it'll probably be with a reasonably patient distributor of Ohlins that can dial me in just right. Spending ~$1,000 I want to be sure I'm dialed in, and have customer service that I'm comfortable with.

So who's gonna set up the Ohlins group buy?!!

Hello Tahoebound,

I would definitely be interested in a "group buy" on a set of Ohlins for the front and back, but the big question I have is what dealership has the technical expertise to install and adjust it properly in the Dallas-Fort Worth Texas area?

You folks on the West Coast seem to have a number of really good and technically proficient mechanics out there that do these kind of mods all the time, not all that convinced we have the same situation here in Dallas-Fort Worth.

I wouldn't even consider doing something like that myself as my mechanical expertise could probably fill a thimble.

SMC

I'm not overly impressed with the Wilbur's distributor with my fork springs. I won't go into detail, but when I replace my rear shock it'll probably be with a reasonably patient distributor of Ohlins that can dial me in just right. Spending ~$1,000 I want to be sure I'm dialed in, and have customer service that I'm comfortable with.
So who's gonna set up the Ohlins group buy?!!

Click to expand...

If you decide to go this way, I can recommend this dealer in Palo Alto.

www.aftershocks-suspension.com

I tried to call Klause yesterday but he is out for another week, the guy I spoke with was completely dismissive about my concern, implying they can't make a shock heavy enough for a 2 up load and still be adequate for a solo rider... whatever!
I try Klause back next week.

Click to expand...

Not trying to defend Wilbers here, but the point they were trying to make may have had to do with sag numbers. With 8mm of available travel on the remote option, you will probably not see the correct sag numbers when loaded up with passenger etc, vs solo. Trying to get a spring to compensate for an additional say 150lb's with only 8mm of additional preload is asking a lot.

Now saying that, I have been very happy with my 11.0kg spring solo and 2-up. It is firm during high speed bumps during solo rides, but I just compensate with a little less hi-speed compression.

Got some interesting information from Wilbers (Klaus) today regarding the rear shock spring. I will use my spring to illustrate the numbers. I am about 200lb ready to ride.
95/95 diameter related numbers (not clear)

95 Spring rate Nmm

165 Spring free length mm

AA 328 mm Eye to eye length of shock

This brings up an interesting issue. The 165mm variable, in combination with the spring rate, will make a big difference on the initial force mobilized by the spring and can't be neglected. In other words, it is not only about spring rate. A shorter spring will evidently start at a lower force than a longer spring.

Click to expand...

The 95/95 refers to the ID at either end of the spring.

You are close to my weight, I'm less, the .95kg spring was to weak for me. Swapped it out for an 11.0kg and all is well in the rear of my FJR. YMMV.

Also of note that both of my Wilbers springs when checked out were below the advertised rate, .93kg and 10.7kg.

I don't want to hijack this thread, but I'm a bit confused. I recently installed my new wilbers shock with the remote preload. The shock has two adjustments, the remote preload mounted on the exhaust hanger and a rebound dial located on the bottom of the shock. The rebound dial can be turned and produces the audible clicks.

Here's my confusion, the remote preload only turns a quarter turn either way, + or - ... with only a click heard at the center setting. This being said, the setup feels very good with the limited testing I've been able to do. Is this correct or do I have a defective remote preload adjuster???

You need to be on the centerstand to adjust the preload adjuster. Tension need to be off the spring for it to work correctly. I believe the same goes for the dampening/rebound dial at the bottom. At least that the way it works when I adjust mine. Are you aon the centerstand? If not try it.

the remote preload only turns a quarter turn either way

Click to expand...

Something is not right, you should have a lot of adjustment. As you turn the remote you should be able to see the spring compress at least 10mm. Watch the top of the shock near the hydraulic line attachment.

Could be the shock/adjuster, might be a problem with your suspension binding. Try the adjuster with your bike on the center stand to remove the weight of the bike from the shock. Will the shock preload adjust now? Can you see if the adjuster has your spring preload at one of the limits (fully extended or minimum)?