Barbarian Jumper Mod on 06

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borrec

borrec

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First, thanks to M.B.D. at FJRowners.com. He figured this out. The procedure is close to the same as the 03. (https://www.fjr1300.info/howto/jumper.html). You only change pins 23 and 25. Take the white plug out of 25. Then take the wire from 23 and place in 25. Put the plug in 23. Follow the instructions for the other parts. I went plus 7 on all 4 CO settings and it definitely helped. The off idle response is a lot smoother and the slight lean surge at 35MPH in 4th is gone. I don't know the effect yet on MPG. :yahoo:

 
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Took the new bike for a 7 day trip, Skyline Drive and Blue Ridge Parkway full lenght. Absolutely beautiful! Mid week, no traffic no rain. More twisties than you could want in a year! But, the bike has a lean surge at light throttle, and, the transition from decel back to power is not very smooth. (Big suprize Huh!) And in two days of twisties I tested this anomoly at least a few thousand times. It was anoying to say the least. This problem combined with the normal play of a shaft drive made for a jerkier than desired ride. It was very hard to be smooth. Not a big deal, but anoying. Removing all the free play from the throttle cables helped alot but not enough.

Well, I followed your instructions (swaping pins 23 and 25) combined with the Barbarian Mod and adjustment instuctions and it worked fine. I increased all cylinder settings 7 points. After, the bike started and ran fine, in the basement. Torential rain form a Northeaster has me captive at the moment. Actually I don't mind the rain but the limbs and wet leaves covering the road are enough for me to call it quits. I will report back as soon as I get a chance to ride it.

Thanks for the info.

Sponge Bob

 
This mod is definitely worth the 1/2 hour it takes to do it. The bike does run a lot smoother at lower RPM's. The bike still is a little abrupt from off throttle to on but I am getting a little more used to it. I also took most of the freeplay out of the throttle and that seems to help as well.

 
S76 said:
Took the new bike for a 7 day trip, Skyline Drive and Blue Ridge Parkway full lenght. Absolutely beautiful! Mid week, no traffic no rain. More twisties than you could want in a year! But, the bike has a lean surge at light throttle, and, the transition from decel back to power is not very smooth. (Big suprize Huh!) And in two days of twisties I tested this anomoly at least a few thousand times. It was anoying to say the least. This problem combined with the normal play of a shaft drive made for a jerkier than desired ride. It was very hard to be smooth. Not a big deal, but anoying. Removing all the free play from the throttle cables helped alot but not enough.
Well, I followed your instructions (swaping pins 23 and 25) combined with the Barbarian Mod and adjustment instuctions and it worked fine. I increased all cylinder settings 7 points. After, the bike started and ran fine, in the basement. Torential rain form a Northeaster has me captive at the moment. Actually I don't mind the rain but the limbs and wet leaves covering the road are enough for me to call it quits. I will report back as soon as I get a chance to ride it.

Thanks for the info.

Sponge Bob
Click to expand...
I just did Skyline and parts of Blue Ridge on the way back from Rolling Thunder. You are definitely right; all the little problems were manifested there. Wish I had done the mod before, I definitely think it would have helped the engine parts of the annoyances. Now, just waiting on your report. :)

S76, do you work at Sikorsky?

 
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borrec said:
S76 said:
Took the new bike for a 7 day trip, Skyline Drive and Blue Ridge Parkway full lenght. Absolutely beautiful! Mid week, no traffic no rain. More twisties than you could want in a year! But, the bike has a lean surge at light throttle, and, the transition from decel back to power is not very smooth. (Big suprize Huh!) And in two days of twisties I tested this anomoly at least a few thousand times. It was anoying to say the least. This problem combined with the normal play of a shaft drive made for a jerkier than desired ride. It was very hard to be smooth. Not a big deal, but anoying. Removing all the free play from the throttle cables helped alot but not enough.

Well, I followed your instructions (swaping pins 23 and 25) combined with the Barbarian Mod and adjustment instuctions and it worked fine. I increased all cylinder settings 7 points. After, the bike started and ran fine, in the basement. Torential rain form a Northeaster has me captive at the moment. Actually I don't mind the rain but the limbs and wet leaves covering the road are enough for me to call it quits. I will report back as soon as I get a chance to ride it.

Thanks for the info.

Sponge Bob
Click to expand...
I just did Skyline and parts of Blue Ridge on the way back from Rolling Thunder. You are definitely right; all the little problems were manifested there. Wish I had done the mod before, I definitely think it would have helped the engine parts of the annoyances. Now, just waiting on your report. :)

S76, do you work at Sikorsky?
Click to expand...
Good one! Yeah, I work for United Technologies, the parent corp. to Sikorsky, on their fleet of Corporate Aircraft. I am the maintenance supervisor for the helicopters. We had 2 S76's. Just sold one and are replacing it with a corporate S92. I noticed your Blackhawk avatar. I love helicopters. Great mechanical challenge. Airplanes are boring, no moving parts. Wish we could have a corporate Blackhawk! That's like the Corvette of helicopters. If they would just put an 18" horizontal plug in the fuselage to give it more head room it would be a killer corporate machine.

Sponge Bob

Edit: Rain again tomorrow but will report ASAP.

 
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:D Yesterday I had the chance to do the Barbarian - Torch jumper mod to my 06. I also added 7 to all of the factory CO settings. The instructions are so detailed it is really simple to do thanks to borrec for getting the wire pin numbers posted for the 06 models. The idle is smooth and solid and when I blip the throttle it doesn't miss a beat, its not a huge change but it runs better. This mod is well worth the time - 1/2 hour with a beer. Make sure you wright the existing values down and save them, even if you decide to change the CO values back to the factory values, it will continue to be adjustable if you need to make a change in the future. One thing important to remember is that Yamaha built this adjustment into the bike to fine tune it. All of the FJR's in Europe have this right out of the box. :clapping:
 
Curious ... My 06 has no noticeable lean surge, strong smooth idle, and I get fantastic gas mileage. I wonder if it is because I am at altitude and the bike is a bit richer than everyone else at low elevations?

Always after a cool running motor though, so I'm interested in the revised CO settings.

 
jimbemotumbo said:
Curious ... My 06 has no noticeable lean surge, strong smooth idle, and I get fantastic gas mileage. I wonder if it is because I am at altitude and the bike is a bit richer than everyone else at low elevations?
Always after a cool running motor though, so I'm interested in the revised CO settings.
Click to expand...
I did this mod & it does run better just off idle -smoother.I do believe it is much smoother @ 1500 to

2500 in the 2,3,4 gears. I did +5 for now,until I have a little more time on it at this setting.But +5

did do some good @ no cost-love it ! Sliick2

 
Just curious, does anyone know if there is any sort of ECU reset procedure required after the ECU is disconnected?

I know that Hondas go through an initialization procedure that reads the sensors and sets some base level bias values up for the ECM to use. You do it by starting the bike cold and letting it idle till the engine fully warms up and the fans come on, and then you shut off the ignition to lock in the values.

Just wondering if something similar needs to be done on the Yamaha after you remove the connector on the ECU to do the jumper mod and change the settings. Comments/thoughts?

 
Fred H. said:
Just curious, does anyone know if there is any sort of ECU reset procedure required after the ECU is disconnected?
I know that Hondas go through an initialization procedure that reads the sensors and sets some base level bias values up for the ECM to use. You do it by starting the bike cold and letting it idle till the engine fully warms up and the fans come on, and then you shut off the ignition to lock in the values.

Just wondering if something similar needs to be done on the Yamaha after you remove the connector on the ECU to do the jumper mod and change the settings. Comments/thoughts?
Click to expand...
No mention of any procedure in Service manual and mod went just fine when I did it. :D

 
I just finished the mod myself. I increased the settings on all four cylinders by 7 increments and then went for a ride.

Nice!!! Now I like the bike even more. I get less mirror vibration, engine is smoother overall and throttle is not as jerky at low RPMs and the engine feels like it has just a tad more low end torque. Any vibration I used to feel at 75-80mph is now totally gone, and the temp indicator dropped by one bar. This looks to me like a great modification. :yahoo:

For the record, my initial settings on my four cylinders were:

1. -10

2. 8

3. 8

4. 11

I would be curious to know how this compares to what others have measured. No 1 cylinder sure looks to be set a lot leaner than the rest.

 
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I know all you guys are saying that this is an easy mod but is it something that can be easily screwed up if done incorrectly? I'm fairly good at most maintenance procedures but am a little dicey at things involving electronics. All I know is that I can't deal with the bike the way it is. The surging and herky-jerky power transitions suck and are the only real complaint I have with the bike. The dealer looks at me like a have four eyes when I ask him about it. I was assuming that I would be able to hook up a power commander at some point here in the near future but if this mod will help I'm going to go for it now....

 
Fred H. said:
......For the record, my initial settings on my four cylinders were:
1. -10

2. 8

3. 8

4. 11

I would be curious to know how this compares to what others have measured. No 1 cylinder sure looks to be set a lot leaner than the rest.
Click to expand...

My settings were exactly the same as yours were. I had very nice results with this also.

 
Fred H. said:
I just finished the mod myself. I increased the settings on all four cylinders by 7 increments and then went for a ride.
Nice!!! Now I like the bike even more. I get less mirror vibration, engine is smoother overall and throttle is not as jerky at low RPMs and the engine feels like it has just a tad more low end torque. Any vibration I used to feel at 75-80mph is now totally gone, and the temp indicator dropped by one bar. This looks to me like a great modification. :yahoo:

For the record, my initial settings on my four cylinders were:

1. -10

2. 8

3. 8

4. 11

I would be curious to know how this compares to what others have measured. No 1 cylinder sure looks to be set a lot leaner than the rest.
Click to expand...

:blink: Wow - the numbers you posted are identical to my initial factory settings. I added 7 to all of them

1. -3

2. 15

3. 15

4. 18

Bike runs great. :D

 

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