Coolant Change

When changing the coolant is it worth the time to do the following:

-- Disconnect the coolant hose on one side of the oil cooler. The hoses to the cooler go up on both sides of the cooler. So, the coolant doesn't drain completely from the cooler and a portion of the hoses. It would seem to be very easy to disconnect one of the hoses at the cooler to get a complete drain.

-- Disconnect the coolant hose to the cold idle actuator assembly beneath the throttle bodies. Using compressed air push the coolant through the assembly to the radiator. Disconnect the hose where it connects to the thermostat assembly above the engine head.

These are two areas where coolant might not totally drain from the engine/radiator.

All of these areas would be easily accessible when I check/adjust the engine valve clearances and drain a portion of the coolant. Seems like an opportune time to change the coolant.

Constant Mesh said:

When changing the coolant is it worth the time to do the following:

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Click here for the answer!

You guys are getting WAY too anal about changing coolant....LOL.

Drain the old stuff out, pour in new 50/50 and ride.

The little bit of old coolant in there is not going to hurt a thing. The ethyleneglycol in the coolant lasts forever and the new stuff has adequate corrosion protection to easily protect the system.

If you think it needs a "flush" then take a deep breath and forget about it. Drain it and refill it. If that makes you nervous then just ride it awhile, drain it and refill it again.

If you make a coolant change so difficult that it takes all day then it never gets done. Make it easy and do it a little more often.

The little bit of old coolant in there is not going stale or turning into acid or something. It is just more ethyleneglycol.

As long as you are being obcessive who takes the time to open the air bleed on the thermostat housing when refilling to let the air pocket up top there escape.....???? What bleed? Didn't you know there was an air bleed on the thermostat housing that needs to be opened after filling to get rid of an air pocket.???

The thermostat assembly has a breather hose on the outlet side of the thermostat which connects to the top of the radiator just below the radiator cap. The thermostat has a small breather hole oriented at the top of the thermostat. So it would seem that a small amount of air/coolant can pass across the thermostat junction even when the thermostat is fully closed.

Maybe an air bubble could still be trapped in the thermostat assembly. I don't know.

jestal said:

As long as you are being obcessive who takes the time to open the air bleed on the thermostat housing when refilling to let the air pocket up top there escape.....???? What bleed? Didn't you know there was an air bleed on the thermostat housing that needs to be opened after filling to get rid of an air pocket.???

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Well, me, on my first change. :blushing: I ended up removing the bolted on reservoir cover this year, and just topping off until Frank found his level, much easier and the cap seems to stay on just fine without it. I agree wholeheartedly that getting every last drop of the old is a useless task-change it often, and you don't need to worry about it.

For those that have delved deep into their FJR.....there is a bleed fitting at the top of that assembly..... Something new to obcess over.....LOL.

What's the best way to get to that bleed fitting?

jestal said:

For those that have delved deep into their FJR.....there is a bleed fitting at the top of that assembly..... Something new to obcess over.....LOL.

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Coyote said:

What's the best way to get to that bleed fitting?

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There is no best way. It's best just to avoid it and not bother with it.

However, if you absolutely, postively, MUST know.................

I'ts #33 in the diagram in this post: Thermostat housing diagram

And you can see part of it in the last photo of this post (The bolt coming out of the housing on the bottom of the photo): Thermostat photos

Thanks Skooter. I'm just trying to refill the radiator without doing multiple heat/cool runs.

Current waiting for a cool down to open the cap.

Pretty obvious I don't know what I doin' here.

SkooterG said:

Coyote said:

What's the best way to get to that bleed fitting?

Click to expand...

There is no best way. It's best just to avoid it and not bother with it.

However, if you absolutely, postively, MUST know.................

I'ts #33 in the diagram in this post: Thermostat housing diagram

And you can see part of it in the last photo of this post (The bolt coming out of the housing on the bottom of the photo): Thermostat photos

Click to expand...

I'm sure someone is going to make more out of this than what I'm trying to say, so here goes. The main reason Anti-freeze is changed every two years is more for lubricating qualities than cooling. Apparently Anti-freeze as it goes through the hot and cold cycles looses it's effectiveness to properly lubricate. I have been told Anti-freeze can totally loose all lubricating qualities usually within three to four years, and this same Anti-freeze can still show good using a hydrometer. So for your bearings and seals to remain intact and in good condition, it is definately in your best interest to change it every two years.

Even though a tech mayuse a Hydrometer to check the anti-freeze and tells you It's good, they may be trying to do you a favor and save you a few bucks in the process, the determining factor about if it's good or not; is how long has it been in the cooling system? If it's not been changed in two years, it's now time to get her done. I believe most will find replacing the Anti-freeze every two years is a cheap date.

As for draining every ounce of Anti-freeze, I agree with most who say this is not needed, just get what you can get out and refill it with a 50/50 mixture. I also agree the system needs to have all of the air removed from it, if this is not done the engine will definately and quickly over heat.

C1

I thought the main reason for changing coolant on a regular basis was to maintain the anti-corrosion properties, not so much the lubricating properties.

Regardless, I think we can agree that it's a good idea to change it on a regular basis. NOT because it loses it's cooling abilitites, but due to the depletion of additives for other purposes.

clutchless1 said:

I'm sure someone is going to make more out of this than what I'm trying to say, so here goes. The main reason Anti-freeze is changed every two years is more for lubricating qualities than cooling. Apparently Anti-freeze as it goes through the hot and cold cycles looses it's effectiveness to properly lubricate. I have been told Anti-freeze can totally loose all lubricating qualities usually within three to four years, and this same Anti-freeze can still show good using a hydrometer. So for your bearings and seals to remain intact and in good condition, it is definately in your best interest to change it every two years.
Even though a tech mayuse a Hydrometer to check the anti-freeze and tells you It's good, they may be trying to do you a favor and save you a few bucks in the process, the determining factor about if it's good or not; is how long has it been in the cooling system? If it's not been changed in two years, it's now time to get her done. I believe most will find replacing the Anti-freeze every two years is a cheap date.

As for draining every ounce of Anti-freeze, I agree with most who say this is not needed, just get what you can get out and refill it with a 50/50 mixture. I also agree the system needs to have all of the air removed from it, if this is not done the engine will definately and quickly over heat.

C1

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HOW DO I REMOVE THE AIR FROM THE COOLANT SYSTEM ...NEW ONE TO ME

After filling, cap the radiator and run the bike until thermostat opens. Shut down and refill radiator. make sure overflow resevoir is at correct level. Ride. Enjoy.

Coolant needs to be changed to restore the anti-corrosion properties. Nothing to do with lubrication. The ethylene glycol in the coolant is basically good forever and does not loose any "lubricating" properties over time/miles. The corrosion inhibitors of standard, silicated coolant do diminish with time/miles hence the need for the occasional change. Even if the "lubricating" properties were to change there isn't really anything in the cooling system that needs lubricating. The water pump seal, maybe, but that is designed to live with plain water so there is really nothing in the form of lubrication required from the coolant. Old wives tales about water pump "lubrication" are slow to die.

jestal said:

.....???? What bleed? Didn't you know there was an air bleed on the thermostat housing that needs to be opened after filling to get rid of an air pocket.???

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Shit! Is my bike going to explode???

jestal said:

Coolant needs to be changed to restore the anti-corrosion properties. Nothing to do with lubrication. The ethylene glycol in the coolant is basically good forever and does not loose any "lubricating" properties over time/miles. The corrosion inhibitors of standard, silicated coolant do diminish with time/miles hence the need for the occasional change. Even if the "lubricating" properties were to change there isn't really anything in the cooling system that needs lubricating. The water pump seal, maybe, but that is designed to live with plain water so there is really nothing in the form of lubrication required from the coolant. Old wives tales about water pump "lubrication" are slow to die.

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...and I suppose that the earth is round too?

Call me an old woman if you like but being a car mechanic I have changed/replaced/topped up the antifreeze on THOUSANDS of cars but when it comes to my own FJR, I am fussing that I should use distilled or at least demineralised water when I change my antifreeze. Nothing but the best for my baby or am I mothering her too much???

If your local water is naturally very "soft" (low Ca and Mg), it probably doesn't matter very much in a cooling system. Batteries, on the other hand, NEED to have distilled water if making up for evaporative losses.

Antifreeze already contains lots of dissolved inorganic solids but these remain stable and stay in solution. Calcium and magnesium (hardness components) in many tap water sources may not play well with your cooling system since these elements can precipitate out (as carbonates) and cause a mess in the radiator and thermostat. A gallon of distilled water wont cost you more than a buck or two so why sweat it?

Timely thread as I will be changing the coolant in my '09 this winter when I am not riding. It has always had Engine Ice in it, only because the mechanic who did most of the work on it swore by the stuff. Thanks to the search tool I have decided that I will be refilling with plain old Prestone which coincidentally is on sale at a couple of local auto parts places locally. Bought some Rotella T6 when the rebate was in effect, buying the Prestone this weekend. It's nice to have a plan come together neatly.