Photo's of how to get under the Tank

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Rickster

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Ok -- I had to try to do something positive as this will be my one thousandth post.

Photo's of how to get under the tank to do the TBS (Throttle Body Sync), and/or Throttle Return Spring, and other things (plugs etc.)

Documented for Gen II (2006 and 2007)

(1) Remove passenger saddle using the key, and drivers saddle. To remove the driver's saddle, there is a lever to the aft of the seat

IMG_0285.jpg


Remove the screw (4mm hex key), and plastic rivet

IMG_0286.jpg


Remove the plastic tank cover by pulling out on the forward edges, then slide back

IMG_0288.jpg


Top view of what you're pulling out of what:

IMG_0290.jpg


This is what's under there -- you have to slide the cover AFT to remove it.

IMG_0294.jpg


Picture of both the plastic tank cover and where it mates:

IMG_0295.jpg


Remove the 2 bolts holding the tank on. Cover the tank with a rag to keep from chafing or chipping the paint

IMG_0301.jpg


Next, prop the tank up slightly, and disconnect the 2 electrical connectors on the bottom of the tank (circled in the photo below)

IMG_0303.jpg


The release is on the outside of each connector (right side on the green connector, left side on the white connector viewed as you would be sitting on the motorcycle):

Push where highlighted to release the connector locking mechanism:

IMG_0304.jpg


Now that the connectors are loose, you can raise the tank higher:

IMG_0312.jpg


Tank raised higher (2X4 trimmed to hold up the tank. Also I've used a bungee cord from the holes back to the passenger grab rail -- just use something to hold the tank up and that is stable.)

IMG_0312B.jpg


Viewing under the tank -- next step -- remove the T-Bar

IMG_0314.jpg


Note that the washers are not captive -- make sure you don't loose them:

IMG_0315.jpg


Once the T-Bar is removed, remove the heat shield. Note the plastic rivet just to the left of where the harness exits -- remove that, and the heat shield can be removed.

IMG_0317.jpg


Remove the aft side by lifting it up to clear:

IMG_0318.jpg


Then, fold the forward edge under, and remove by pulling it out forward:

IMG_0319.jpg


Removed view:

IMG_0320.jpg


Orientation view (heat shield removed):

IMG_0324.jpg


To do the Throttle Body Sync, you will have to connect the 2 electrical connectors removed to facilitate removal of the heat shield:

IMG_0326.jpg


The following 4 pictures show the location of the cap that must be removed to connect your vacuum gage (carb stick, etc.)

Pictures are the rightmost first as you sit on the motorcycle:

IMG_0328.jpg


IMG_0330.jpg


IMG_0331.jpg


and lastly the one on the left:

IMG_0332.jpg


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There are numerous posts on great techniques to do the actual TBS -- so I'll skip repeating the adjustment.

----------------------------------------------------------

If you want to get the Throttle Return Spring released -- continue to read...

The TRS is in this area:

IMG_0336.jpg


Top View:

IMG_0340.jpg


Close up view -- note that the throttle is completely closed -- it makes it difficult to see in this shot.

IMG_0341.jpg


If you move the throttle with the grip just a little, it is easier to see and get the spring tang from the hook.

You can see the spring tang just below the phililps head screw you see in the photo.

IMG_0344.jpg


Get the edge (I used a hemostat), and remove it from the holding point.

IMG_0351.jpg


As you slide it off the hook, it should unwind 1 revolution, and catch on the same hook that you removed it from:

IMG_0352.jpg


Put everything back in reverse order,

and torque per your owners manual. 7.2 Ft-LB for the 2 forward tank fasteners that hold the tank to the frame.

Torque T-Bar bolts to 27 Ft-LB.

Torques.jpg


 
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Wow, this makes some of Warchilds post of instructions look elementary.

I really like the step by step instruction with step by step pictures as I am a visual learner!

Thanks :yahoo:

 
This was a great "how-to". Absolutely took all the guesswork out of it. Great job!!! Thanks. Your timing was perfect. I will be doing my TBS for the first time this Sunday.

 
Nice post Rick !!!

You may want to add the torque specs for the T bar reinstallation ( unless I missed it ? ). That torque is WAY more important than the gas tank bolts ....that just need " snug " specs ! :D

 
Nice post Rick !!!
You may want to add the torque specs for the T bar reinstallation ( unless I missed it ? ). That torque is WAY more important than the gas tank bolts ....that just need " snug " specs ! :D
Torque T-Bar fasteners to 27 ft-lbs (using a calibrated torque wrench of course.) :)

T-BarTorque.jpg


 
Last edited by a moderator:
I wish I had this before I did mine lol

most excellent writeup
thumbup.gif
:clapping: :clapping:

 
excellent thread.

Especially the TRS. I was of the opinion (reading through all the previous posts and threads) that the spring was to be removed completely. Obviously not.

 
I wonder if that heat shield will fit the older models?Canadian FJR
Man, you stole my line... :angry2:

Actually at first glance, I don't see why not..apart from that 1/4-turn plastic fastener that will need a seat somewhere.

The T-bar ought to hold the shield in its place...

If the Yammy part does not carry an extortionate price, that's likely to be on my next order to University Motors...

Stef

Edit: as per official price list the heat shield costs $107.00 ....mmmhhhh....

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Wow, this makes some of Warchilds post of instructions look elementary.
I really like the step by step instruction with step by step pictures as I am a visual learner!

Thanks :yahoo:

Come now, I know that you didn't mean to dis one of our leaders. When your name goes up in lights in front of a church (like Warchild's), let us know.

Later,,,De... :rolleyes:

 
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