Barnett Clutch Pack and Spring Install

Well was going to just soak my clutch plates as I think they may be dry from some of the symptoms I have experienced. Well I said bag it and bought the Barnett Clutch Spring Conversion part #511-90-10033 and a Clutch Kit part #306-90-10073 from Phat Performance Parts in Laguna Hills, CA. To the door total price was $320.16 that was with a 5% discount, free shipping, 2.00 insurance to PA.

So here is the set up shot.



I used a spotless drain pan and Mobile Delvac for the soak. Interesting Barnett includes a slip of paper telling you to soak the plates for 10 -15 minuets and longer soak times will do nothing for the plates. Interesting in light of the Forum wisdom of 24 hours. It is going to be a long soak for me as I wont be able to tear into it until Sunday and they been in oil since 6:00 pm tonight! Have rattled them around and will flip them all tomorrow morning.

Another shot and you can see the odd plate out if you look at the top one. It is solid material stripe with no spaces like the others. I assume this will be the first plate in, but will know for sure when I open it up.



So Sunday armed with a new gasket I will jump into this and see how it goes, and if my OE clutch plates are really dry.

Been a busy week.

Pinned the Givi

Pinned the side bags

Mount and Balance new PR 2's

Spline Shaft Lube

All brake calipers cleaned

Edit: Side Bag Screws Loctite

Edit: Install Metal Valve Stems

To DO:

Barnett Clutch and Spring Conversion

Wax Bike

keep the pics coming when you do the install. Wondering if the FJR is a pretty standard clutch job or not. While I won't fault you for doing the whole kit install, I'd highly doubt that the original components are truely worn, although I've heard all about the late gen2 dry plate issue. Mine still feels more or less new at 40,000 miles.

Ouch. That's expensive. Will be interested in hearing what you think of it.

I fixed my clutch with OEM compenents for about $150 a couple years back.

Clicky for clutch photos.

SkooterG said:

Ouch. That's expensive. Will be interested in hearing what you think of it.

I fixed my clutch with OEM compenents for about $150 a couple years back.

Clicky for clutch photos.

Click to expand...

I know, I know dammit! I HAVE A PROBLEM!

I am adding the Spring and that was I think 189 less 5% so the clutch pack was 159 less 5%?

I see you got a new bearing also in that cost and if I am ever forced to do it again I will just put the "old" 2000 mile clutch back in. Plan on soaking it in the same pan of oil, plastic bagging it, and storing it semi wet.

I guess I wanted to experiment a bit and I have run a Barnett Clutch pack and spring conversions before. One in a 05 Road Glide making 100/100.

And also, since I am there anyway kinda thing.

I need to see if the plates are dry anyway and everything I take off I need to put back on. So for the admission of 320.16 plus 17.00 for the gasket, I get to pay to play

I think I have enough miles I will be able to evaluate it pretty well. I have to say I can find the gray area of the clutch and "trail" brake very nicely on this clutch and hope for the same on this pack. The spring is the unknown, but clutch pull is not an issue just the clutch pack not releasing, or that is what I believe to be happening.

If I understand the spring conversion applies even force with much better precision then a diaphragm spring. And allows you a spring force choice, I will use the stiffer springs.

So my thoughts and excuses for this adventure

Looking forward to following your install and your perceptions of how it works compared to the OEM. This is the kit made for an R1?? Very interesting stuff.

Thanks for the updates, please keep the pics coming.

Thanks,

Candian FJR

FWIW, I don't think the conventional wisdom is that you need to soak the clutch plates. I know some folks have done that, but others haven't and got just as good results. I'd say the conventional wisdom is to do whatever makes you feel good, but you can get away with a quick dip in motor oil and then assemble.

It appears that the factory is either assembling dry parts, or parts are just smeared with some assembly lube (not oil), which is causing these problems.

Thanks for taking this project on. I'll be interested in what you think of it and the benefits over OEM.

Take lots of pics for us!

--G

escapefjrtist said:

Thanks for taking this project on. I'll be interested in what you think of it and the benefits over OEM.

Take lots of pics for us!

--G

Click to expand...

The best 'how to' guide for clutches is by McAtrophy here

Don

Donal said:

escapefjrtist said:

Thanks for taking this project on. I'll be interested in what you think of it and the benefits over OEM.

Take lots of pics for us!

--G

Click to expand...

The best 'how to' guide for clutches is by McAtrophy here

Don

Click to expand...

Yep Have to agree the best how to with pictures, and why I did not go picture heavy as I knew this pictorial was out there.

However I was not prepared for the part # 2H7-16385-00-00 RING SET number 8 on a clutch parts diagram. Through me for a loop as reading the how too's never heard this little gem mentioned. And no mention of it in the article pointed out above. I am not sure I like mine anymore and going to see if I can source one for overnight shipping tomorrow.

And no matter if OEM for a clutch plate soak, or Barnett clutch plates, this Ring Set Part (thin wire) has to come out and go back in.

It is in and the bike was started and run a bit, but not ridden.

I will write and post up pics tomorrow sometime, too damn tired now.

I REALLY need to source that part as I don't have a warm and fuzzy feeling about mine. As I said it is in, but with a trip coming next weekend I NEED one bad in a OVERNIGHT bag tomorrow, and I think it is going to be an issue with tomorrow being Motorcycle Shop Closed Monday. :angry:

Big shout out to Pine Grove Yamaha. They had this bastard retaining spring/wire. And guess what open on a Monday! Too Cool!

Anyone in pa that needs parts on Monday can reach them here Pne Grove, PA Yamaha

Will post up pics and a ride report tonight.

Ok to get it out of the way this wire retaining spring holds the two steels, one concave, the odd man out clutch disk, and then your first steel ring that matches the rest of your steel plates in your clutch pack. It drove me nuts and I suggest anyone doing any clutch work to order one with the gasket, it is a consumable IMHO. Note the top and bottom bends as held.



Here is what mine looked like reinstalled, and it did not suite me at all!



Here is the new one on first install.



Now when both ends got through that hole it was not as pretty but close. Again it IMHO is a consumable.

All the pink lines were in the triangles on the clutch basket.



Surprised at all the splung and gunk with only 2000 miles on the bike.



And I would consider this dry for sure.



This is what it all looks like together.



So went for a quick 30 miles and still considering it and need more miles.

Pull is just a tad bit more, and release is at a different point. I really need more miles. It gave a lot of satisfying snicks and some not so, but more good snicks going up and down then bad.

Some surprises such as the retaining spring around that first set in the clutch basket.

The dirt in the clutch basket in such a short time.

The dryness of all plates and steels except for first and last plates.

Now would I recommend if someone has the right symptoms, to do a clutch soak, you bet I would after seeing it. Order the wire spring with the gasket!

Would I recommend anyone spend the 320.00 to do what I just did? I will not answer that now, but I know I like the feel and the snicks were very nice also. Did it solve all of my 1 to 2 shifts, not at all but I had more very nice ones then not.

I will post up after some miles, I am off for a quick 1000-1500 ride in WV, Cass and around that area so it will get some work down there.

I also had new shoes on her PR 2's, and that added to all the new feel of the bike, and a lot going on different between the shoes and the clutch feel.

Anyway nothing new under the Sun and not a tough task at all providing you order a new wire spring or are very talented in romoving the old one.

The ends of that retaining spring wire are shaped like that so they will pop into and out of the hole in the periphery of the clutch hub and hold it in place with spring tension.

I don't know if you tried to twist or otherwise link the two ends together, or maybe you unbent the ends when removing the old one? But that is not intended. You just pull the bent end (or push from inside) up through the hole. I was able to reuse mine with no problem at all.

I wonder why they anodize the cover plate red? It's not like anyone is going to see it, like on a Ducati...

If you feel that your clutch plates are "dry" cant you just open it up and drizzle a little oil on surface of the plates? From my extensive work with things oily, I know that a very small drop of oil will spread to cover a huge area. Not saying that a drop of oil would be enough, but I don't understand the whole "soaking" thing. If you got the surface covered, then it's covered. I don't think the oil is actually soaking "into" anything.

mferriter said:

If you feel that your clutch plates are "dry" cant you just open it up and drizzle a little oil on surface of the plates? From my extensive work with things oily, I know that a very small drop of oil will spread to cover a huge area. Not saying that a drop of oil would be enough, but I don't understand the whole "soaking" thing. If you got the surface covered, then it's covered. I don't think the oil is actually soaking "into" anything.

Click to expand...

Good question. I still used a goose neck oil pump can to bath mine as I stacked them in, and ensure I "rinsed" any dirt off as I went.

Fred W said:

The ends of that retaining spring wire are shaped like that so they will pop into and out of the hole in the periphery of the clutch hub and hold it in place with spring tension.

I don't know if you tried to twist or otherwise link the two ends together, or maybe you unbent the ends when removing the old one? But that is not intended. You just pull the bent end (or push from inside) up through the hole. I was able to reuse mine with no problem at all.

I wonder why they anodize the cover plate red? It's not like anyone is going to see it, like on a Ducati...

Click to expand...

I understood what and how it worked and got it out and in by using a thin bladed screw driver and did push from the bottom while prying from the top. I just did not like how it looked after I got it back in. That steel is not going to take to bending and re bending at all. As I said some guys got mad skillz and I just am not one of them. I will pay the 8 bucks for a new one if I have to ever go back in.

On the red not sure but I think it is a Barnett/Scorpion thing.

LAF said:

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Puuurty. Too bad it won't be visable like on a Duc. Or since you like throwing the $$$$ around, perhaps you cold source a plexiglass cover?

Too bad you aren't comparing to a properly operating stock clutch. Better evaluation of if the new $$$$ parts are worth it compared to OEM>

SkooterG said:

LAF said:

Click to expand...

Puuurty. Too bad it won't be visable like on a Duc. Or since you like throwing the $$$$ around, perhaps you cold source a plexiglass cover?

Too bad you aren't comparing to a properly operating stock clutch. Better evaluation of if the new $$$$ parts are worth it compared to OEM>

Click to expand...

And to be perfectly honest with you, and the forum that is my thought process too. And since I can not (don't want too) put the OEM back in now that it has been soaked, I wont know, unless something stupid happens.

Same with suspension, never ridden stock so have no clue how it rides as delivered.

However it is different, but I just cant say how or why because of lack of time on the bike since install.

I also wonder if it is just a 2000 mile transmission? However from what I have been told it does not take too long for the gears/cogs/shift forks/cats/dogs to wear in?

As I said I will be in WV soon and some pretty good roads where I will be working gears so I will for sure know then. I can say in banging gears and I use that term loosely, it was right through like butter. But I still had a irritable shift once in awhile in "normal" travel.

However I am only 2000 miles on the bike so I need more saddle time for sure.

So I can say if I needed a clutch, and based just on last nights ride, I would buy the Barnett clutch pack without hesitation (barring any kind of quick failure) and I would think it is comparable to OEM in cost.

The Spring Conversion just do not know at all yet, but as I said the pull is a tad bit harder and it comes with the lighter springs only. But that may have been why the banging of gears was so smooth when shifting quickly at the 7-8000 rpm range.

I may need to adjust the clutch handle in or out a click or two, and play with that a bit. It takes a bit to become accustomed to things when changed and I changed a bunch with tires and clutch. I was in aww of the PR 2's and the suspension working together for a change, and was then over thinking some shifts, blah, blah.

Oh and if you can find me a cover I will take it, however attached to the inside is another plate that looks to me to be some sort of oil sling dispersion plate so it is probably a no go, but dont think that thought had not crossed my mind

LAF,

How are the 1-2 shifts 6 months after you put in the Barnett stuff?