Error Code 14

So, it seems that my manual isn't in the same spot that I thought that I left it. What do I do but call my bud, Jeff Ashe & ask him to look up my error code in his '07 manual. I am guessing that his & mine (manuals, that is) are alike in the code dept.

His manual says something about a kinked, bent, disconnected hose to the oxygen sensor (which in turn is connected to the throttle bodies). I'm going by memory... I think that this is what he told me.

He described what it looks like & approximately where it is located. I intend to lift my gas tank & take a gander at it this weekend. See if anything is obviously kinked, disconnected, etc.

I would like to ask if anyone else has experienced this code & what was the cure to fixing it. Or, can you offer me any words of wisdom when I look to find obvious stuff.

Problem seems to rear it's head when at full lock to the right. Why, I don't know. The angle of the handlebars doesn't seem to have much to do w/ oxygen sensors. Bike seems to be running fine, also.

I did a search & found a boatload of other codes... but not this particular one. Any help with this matter would be appreciated,

Heidi

That code is for the Intake Pressure Sensor. It is mounted in the area of the left end of the FI rail. You will have to raise the gas tank and prop it to see the sensor. If it is defective or unplugged your FJR will use a ‘look-up’ table and continue run just fine. While troubleshooting my bike I rode for a week or two with the sensor unplugged without any issues.

Go to the online Yamaha parts catalog, enter your bike year & make, then click on Intake 2; you are looking for item #18.

The Intake Pressure Sensor is the exact same as the Ambient Pressure Sensor under the seat and under the seat attachment cross bar. It is possible to directly swap these two sensors, but the sensor under the seat is a major PITA to get at the screws.

The sensor in question is used to measure the pressure (vacuum) in the intake and is used as one of the inputs used to determine the correct FI shot. Since your error code is movement related and the sensor is held in place by two screws I would suspect that you are chasing a harness problem and not a sensor problem.

Yeah... come to think of it, he may have said that. It is some sensor, I do know that.

Ion, I guess that I will need to replace it?

I know for sure that Jeff said something about a hose kinked, crimped, disconnected, etc. Interesting crap.

I seriously doubt that I'd consider swapping any sensors & would just buy a new one.

Please, anything else that you can tell me, please do.

A harness problem? LOVELY!

I may have updated my earlier post with the info you are looking for while you were replying. Since your problem is movement related I suspect a harness problem such as a loose connector or corrosion. When you find the sensor, you will see where the connecting hose goes on the bottom of the sensor and you can verify that it is connected. FWIW, when I removed the hose from my sensor it did not pop an error code but it did pop one when I unplugged the connector from the sensor. IIRC, the sensor is $125 to $130 so you *really* want to be sure it is bad before you replace it.

Relax, put a sticky dot over the check engine light and take your time to sort it out. You can reliably ride your FJR with this sensor throwing an error code. Heck, bring it to EOM as a group project

Bringing it to EOM for a project may not be a joke.

I am lifting the tank this weekend to look for something simple. Thanks man, certainly appreciate it.

Calling fjrchik.....calling fjrchik......yellow courtesy phone for fjrchik...............

why? what does this have to do with me?

You turn your handle bars to the right and what happens?

the ABS light only came on that one time. and there was no error code. hasn't happened since.

i don't think this is related to luvtoride's problem.

fjrchik said:

why? what does this have to do with me?

Click to expand...

It's your fault. It's ALWAYS a woman's fault.

Okay.....there is absolutely no connection. Yer right.

Iombeam, I checked the sensor in question & I see nothing. I took it off of the fuel rail, disconnected it, etc & nothing clogged. It all looks clean to me. It appears that the opposite end of the hose is connected to more hoses. Is it possible that the problem lies within those or am I getting the code 14 because the problem is with that specific sensor?

Also, I moved my handlebars back & forth & see absolutely no reason that motion would cause a problem.

Now that I feel pretty comfortable w/ jacking up my tank, do you have any other ideas for me to check? I am tempted to just ride it & see if it the light pops on, again (the sensor's hose was hitting one of the wires from an injector. It looked like the wire could possibly force the hose to kink when it gets hot & flexy, so I rerouted the hose)

Any ideas?

I suppose you could meter the sensor if you had the range of ohms it runs,...or if you you want to get really creative holding the meter on it and somehow simulate a change in intake vaccum and you would see a change in the resistance,...all in all you just need to find the bad/corroded connection.

-Don

Overview: With the diAG mode invoked, select dI:03, the value being displayed is the difference between the atmospheric pressure sensor and intake pressure sensor’s readings. At your option –

1) Hook a vacuum pump like a Mity Vac to the intake pressure sensor and ever so slightly pump the Vac while watching the display, the value at dI:03 should show an increasing difference. While it is showing a slight difference you can wiggle sensor associated harness wires and connectors to see if the reading suddenly changes. This would primarily be done with the harness & connectors at the FI rail and at the ECU connector.

2) With the engine stop switch turned on, create a pressure difference between the intake pressure sensor and the atmospheric sensor by cranking the engine with the starter, without actually starting the engine. This will show if the sensors are working but won't let you move associated harness & connectors while looking for a reading drop-out. The pressure differential will exist only as long as the engine is being cranked.

The mass of hoses that the intake sensor is plumbed into are tapped into the individual throttle bodies measuring the intake pressure of the TBs. When the engine is turning over or running the intake pressure will always be lower than atmospheric pressure.

The pressure sensors are delicate electromechanical parts and won’t tolerate anything including sprays being shot into the sensor hole. The sensors will not tolerate a strong vacuum or pressure, so be gentle!

That is definitely technical overload for someone who only does general maintenance. Uhhh, I did ask, didn't I?

I think that I'm going to ride it & see if straightening out the hose helps my problem.

Much thanks to Don & Ionbeam. If I do indeed continue to get the error code, I will then try to wrap my head around your replies.

Thanks, Heidi

ionbeam said:

That code is for the Intake Pressure Sensor. It is mounted in the area of the left end of the FI rail. You will have to raise the gas tank and prop it to see the sensor. If it is defective or unplugged your FJR will use a ‘look-up’ table and continue run just fine. While troubleshooting my bike I rode for a week or two with the sensor unplugged without any issues.
Go to the online Yamaha parts catalog, enter your bike year & make, then click on Intake 2; you are looking for item #18.

The Intake Pressure Sensor is the exact same as the Ambient Pressure Sensor under the seat and under the seat attachment cross bar. It is possible to directly swap these two sensors, but the sensor under the seat is a major PITA to get at the screws.

The sensor in question is used to measure the pressure (vacuum) in the intake and is used as one of the inputs used to determine the correct FI shot. Since your error code is movement related and the sensor is held in place by two screws I would suspect that you are chasing a harness problem and not a sensor problem.

Click to expand...

Uh, the very rare occasion when I can correct Ionbeam

At least on the Gen2, the Vacuum sensor is NOT the same as the Air Intake sensor, the Air Intake and Water Temperature sensors ARE the same.

I've had intermittent issues with Error Code 14 and the messed up running when the engine is cold for the past few months. The problem seemed to go away in the peak of summer and resurfaced about a month ago as the temps have started to cool overnight. Being an intermittent problem, it's a bitch to try to find/fix, but thanks to the great info in this thread I've systematically gone through the various parts of the system looking for problems. I think I've found the culprit (in my case, at least) based on the normal operation when trying to start the FJR this morning.

A few years ago, when we were first discovering the Spider issues on the Gen2 and people where offering advice about various additional preventative measures to keep corrosion, etc. out, I had followed the advice about putting Dielectric grease on many/most of the connectors I could find while doing bypass surgery to remove the Spiders and add individual grounds (except S5 if memory serves) - again thanks Ionbeam for the insight that this Spider was better left not grounded to the chassis since it is for the ECU...

I remember a little while later reading a post from you pointing out that even though Dielectric grease is designed for this application, it's still an insulator and by using it on the connectors you're relying on the connectors being of high quality and longevity to maintain that quality... I had already finished the Spider work (cut them all out and ground separately) and everything was running well so I didn't bother going back in to remove the Dielectric grease from all the connectors.

Well it seams that after a few years and the numerous heat cycles in the engine bay the Dielectric grease has degraded somewhat so that when the ambient temps were low the grease would harden enough to interfere with some of the contacts inside the connector, since the problem would go away once the engine warmed up. I have now cleaned out the Dielectric grease I previously put in any connectors I could find...

And like you said Ion, the sensors generally don't fail... I guess the interference was subtle and intermittent enough to make the Diag sink it was Code 14 (kinked hose, etc), but not a faulty sensor unit.

Ionbeam, I know you were speaking purely from memory, so it's all cool, and thanks as always for your great and insightful advice.

JamesK said:

ionbeam said:

That code is for the Intake Pressure Sensor. It is mounted in the area of the left end of the FI rail...The Intake Pressure Sensor is the exact same as the Ambient Pressure Sensor under the seat...The sensor in question is used to measure the pressure (vacuum) in the intake and is used as one of the inputs used to determine the correct FI shot...

Click to expand...

Uh, the very rare occasion when I can correct Ionbeam

At least on the Gen2, the Vacuum sensor is NOT the same as the Air Intake sensor, the Air Intake and Water Temperature sensors ARE the same

Click to expand...

Hmm, I wrote that in 2008 about Luvtoride's Gen I FJR. I stand by the Gen I's Intake Pressure Sensor on the fuel rail and the Ambient Pressure Sensor under the seat being the same. I have twice swapped these sensors that have (had) the same P/N with each other and diAG read the correct values. The Ambient Sensor screws are a bit of a PITA to access.

The Gen II only has the Intake Pressure Sensor, no Ambient Pressure Sensor. The Air Intake Temperature Sensor and the Water Temperature Sensor on the Gen II may be the same, I would have to look that up.

I won't be so brazenly positive as to use Wfooshee's tag line here.

Look at graphic #3 on page 1-6 of the '04 FJR Owner's Manual. You can see the intake pressure sensor on the top left and fuel pressure regulator on the right. If any of those hoses are open to the atmosphere you'd get a bad reading at the pressure sensor. I replaced the hose which connects throttle body #1 to this system. The old one was stretched quite tight from the factory and it eventually failed. There are several tees and several inches of hose in this daisy-chained network. If there is a hose leak your fuel pressure regulator is likely misbehaving too.