Too Many Things Not Working!

Cruising along yesterday, went to set cruise, wouldn't set. Looked at panel; amber CC icon flashing. WTF! ABS icon also flashing! Pulled over a ways up the road, turned bike off. Turned it on and got a 090 code showing in the display panel. (Brake light switch)

ABS on solid. Started engine, code disappeared and regular miles display appeared. Moved out and ABS icon flashing again. CC icon also flashes if I try to turn it on. Subsequently discovered that windshield does not move and brake lights don't either. However, signal lights work fine and bike runs great. Called the dealer and they can't figure out what it is and say I may need a new wiring harness or ECU!!!! Too many seemingly unconnected failures.

To top it off, I'm in the middle of a BMW rally and everyone knows that I bought the FJR because the BMW was unreliable. Also have only the standard manual. Shop manual is at home. Three more days to go on this rally, then bike was scheduled for a service before we head out for another two weeks.

Posting this in the hope someone here has the answer(s). Heading out to get to the next hotel before night.

Forgot to add that it's a 2015 FJR1300ES with 21k miles.

No help but much sympathy.

Being an owner of one of the dinosaur Gen2's I'm not really familiar with all the modern electronics.

That being said, if it was me I would probably disconnect the battery for a few seconds then hook it back up.

It may not help but couldn't hurt, and I've known it to clear electronic issues on other vehicles.

Just a couple thoughts / ideas...

Battery ^^^^ yup, make sure connections are tight, never hurts to cycle power.

Any "improvements" made to the bike before you left...did you mess with it??

Did you check both front and rear brake light switches for proper operation?

Are you 100% sure the brake lights aren't on all the time vs. running lights?

Regarding windshield operation, is the menu on "windshield"? (It's happened...!)

IIRC, bigjohn had his '13s LH switch assembly replaced under warranty due to funky CC operation.

Good luck!

--G

I don't have a manual for a Gen 3 bike, but it makes sense to me that a brake switch problem would take out the cruise. If the switch is stuck engaged, or the bike doesn't know the position of the switch, it won't allow activation of the cc. This is true of a lot of vehicles. Not sure about the association with the windshield, but this could be a big clue. Maybe a common ground?

I lean towards the common ground hypothesis. I forgot to add that the cover on the glove box on the left will not release either. No changes or additions were made to the bike in the last 15 k miles, other than the 16 k service.

Will disconnect the battery and see what that does.

Ended up back at home last night as we ran into a very bad hail storm, hail the size of golf balls. Multiple vehicle accidents closed the road so we turned around. Heading up into the mountains this morning.

Are you sure your brake pedal isn't sticking? Get a can of spray lube, and hit that pivot. Even if that fixes it, it will only be temporary, but will give you the time to get home and do a proper service.

If that's not it, I'd do what's recommended above. Maybe clean the switches. Oh, clean and lube your brake hand lever also. A 10 minute job with a screwdriver and small wrench.

Good luck!

simple things first....definitely this ^^^^...I've had the pedal stick and keep the brake light on several times so now it gets lubed yearly

Just reading the manual now! Code 90 Front or rear brake light open or short circuit is detected. Check the main signaling fuse. Do the brake light and turn signals work?

If not it's probably the fuse. If the fuse is good it states check wiring harness continuity. If that's good it states to check front brake light switch. Which I think I would do before fiddling with the wiring harness. Hope this helps!

I agree with you guys, these are very common failing points, but it doesn't explain the windshield or glove box. It's starting to sound like a common ground (spider) problem. Where the heck is Ionbeam?

Shit, I forgot about the windshield. That's more of a ground issue.

Sounds like when my rear brake switch was tweaked. It thought the brake was on even though it wasn't.

The brake light is not on (compared the two bikes side by side). [That brake light is bright!] Neither hand not foot brake will activate light.

Just got back home. Bike is due for 20k service tomorrow morning so will see what they come up with. Hopefully a quick fix as we leave for the Reuben Run on Thursday. will provide an update as soon as it is fixed. Would definitely like brake lights and ABS for the trip. Also, the windscreen is rather high for "challenging" roads. Found it a nuisance going over Sonora Pass yesterday.

Back from the Reuben Run and parts West and have been getting the run-around from the service "advisor." When I picked the bike up, I was told the battery connections were loose and an arc blew a fuse. Hard to buy that one as the Garmin GPS which is very sensitive to electrical noise continued recording through all of this. Also we rode 1200 miles after the incident with no issues. They said they put in a larger fuse because I have the MotoLights. Hmm, they are connected directly to the battery and use only a small current to trigger the relay. And, they kept on working.

Finally got down to enough information to sort this out. They say they replaced the "brake light" fuse with a 15 A fuse. The manual says the brake light fuse is 1.0 A! I looked at the "signalling system" schematic and after a time spent shaking my head about what was in the "signalling system" schematic (windshield, ABS!), realized that the fuse was the "Signalling System" fuse, specified as 10 A. Pored over it for a while and realized that this would provide the failures I saw. The turn signals kept working because they are on the "Hazard" fuse. The windshield has a separate fuse and should have kept working but there must be some tie-in through the relay control. I've worked on complex electronic systems for over 40 years and have never seen a schematic this convoluted. It looks like, as new features came along, they just tacked them in somewhere. I need to get a C or D-size print of the schematic one of these days just to try to follow it!

Can't say I'm comfortable with the larger fuse so will probably replace it with the correct size and keep the other with my spares. I would like to know if the fuse blew or just failed from vibration but they threw it out.

Find another shop!

Putting a 10x size fuse in to "fix" a problem is stupid, bordering on criminal.

^^^^^^

What he said.

My first motorcycle was fixed this way by the previous owner. The fuse did not blow and instead the wiring harness melted. I was stranded 40 miles from home.

If it wont stay lit with the right fuse, they need to figure out why.

Some dealers arent up to it. Find one that is.

Just to clarify, the fuse they did replace was the 10 A signal system fuse, not the 1 A brake fuse. Still a 50% increase for no reason makes no sense. Bothers me that the service advisor did not get the right part. However, this is in keeping with the service we've had from them in the past. Obviously, we are looking for a new shop.

I misunderstood about the fuse. While I might go a bit higher temporarily to get me home from somewhere, it wouldn't be a "fix" for a fuse that blew more than once. There is always a reason for a blown fuse!

A 1 amp fuse is super light...(stereo or GPS light).. There's apparently a typo in the manual

You may want to re-check that, a 10 amp fuse sounds more like it..

(BTW, just a touch of some loctite on the battery terminal bolts will prevent further issues with it loosening)..

My tail light, single bulb, in my FZ6 takes a 10 amp fuse:

Missed this discussion until now. 3rd Gen fuse list is as follows:

Main fuse 50.0 A

Cooling system fuse 30.0 A

Headlight fuse 25.0 A

Brake light fuse 1.0 A

Signaling system fuse 10.0 A

Ignition fuse 20.0 A

Radiator fan fuse 10.0 A×2

Auxiliary DC jack fuse 3.0 A

Hazard lighting fuse 7.5 A

SCU fuse (ES models) 15.0 A

Fuel injection system fuse 15.0 A

ABS motor fuse 30.0 A

ABS solenoid fuse 20.0 A

ABS ECU fuse 7.5 A

Cruise control fuse 1.0 A

Windshield drive system fuse 20.0 A

Electronic throttle valve fuse 7.5 A

Backup fuse 7.5 A

Spare fuse 30.0 A ×2

Spare fuse 25.0 A

Spare fuse 20.0 A

Spare fuse 15.0 A

Spare fuse 10.0 A

Spare fuse 7.5 A

Spare fuse 3.0 A

Spare fuse 1.0 A

It seems the OP has found the reason for the "Too Many Things Not Working", which was the "signal system" fuse, but not yet why it blew in the first place.

The 10A "Signaling System" fuse powers only:

Horn

Brake light filaments (when on) via contacts in the Brake Light relay

Brake light fuse (1A)

The 1A Brake Light fuse powers only:

Brake Switch relay via the rear brake switch NC contacts.

Brake Light relay via the front brake switch NC contacts and the Brake switch relay's NC contacts.

(That 1A fuse only powers the two relay coils above, not the light bulbs.) Since the 1A fuse was not blown, the electrical problem was not in that area.

The problem that blew the 10A fuse has to be either in the key-switched 12V (brown wire) going to the Horn and Brake Light relay contact, or the Brake Light switched 12V (yellow wire) from the Brake Light relay to the brake light bulbs.

So, what accessories did you add to either the brown horn wire or yellow brake light wire? Both places are common places to wire farkles to pick up either a key-switched 12V (from the horn) or a brake switched 12V (yellow brake wire).