Bike lurches forward abrubtly from N to 1rst gear.

This is my first FJR. It is a 2013 FJR 1300AD model and overall I am very pleased with this bike. I've owned about a dozen different Japanese bikes over the years; mostly Honda's. With my newly acquired FJR I have discovered that when I shift from Neutral to 1rst gear when starting to ride, the bike sometimes abruptly lurches forward, when the clutch lever still FULLY engaged. Once it lurched forward so abruptly, it stalled. is this a normal bike personality trait for the FJR (nature of the beast so to speak?) Has anyone else experienced this issue? It can be a little unsettling when this happens.

If anyone has any ideas why this is occurring, and can offer some advice of maybe how to correct this problem, I would greatly appreciate your input. Presently the clutch lever dial adjustment is set at #5. This seems to be an ergonomically comfortable setting for me that was set at #5 when I acquired the bike so I just left it there.

Thanks again in advance for any suggestions or advise.

BlueSky

A "ker-chunk" sound going from neutral to first is fairly common although you can do stuff to minimize it. A lurch is definitely not normal. Sounds like your bike would benefit from a clutch soak. Do a forum search. Put "+clutch +soak" in the search box.

Before you dig into a clutch soak, try adjusting the lever to the furthest position and see if it helps with the lurching. If it helps, bleed the clutch and watch for any bubbles.

My '15 snicks into first gear without much drama and definitely no lurching.

~G

Check the clutch lever bushing. If it's worn it won't disengage the clutch all the way when in the lever is at the #5 setting.

A clutch soak is most definitely needed. Do it and your problems will go away. Ask me how I know.

Been there,

Dave

By all means, check other lever positions (certainly easy to try). Good point on the brass bushing "insert" on the clutch lever. That needs an annual remove, clean and lube (even if it isn't the root cause this time). If neglected too long, they will wear out quickly but good for many years if maintained. Still think it may come down to the clutch soak.

Good luck and let us know what the answer was.

Sample clutch lever bushing wear...

Thanks for all your suggestions. Being new to the FJR world and learning a 'clutch soak' is a possible solution to these symptoms I am experiencing, I guess it begs the question are 'clutch soaks' required for MOST FJR's? Is it a common maintenance best practice to keep these bikes running smoothly. Do only a small number of FJR's experience this issue or is it common with most of them?

Thx again in advance for further comments.

BlueSky

I haven't heard a lot of chatter about the clutch soak lately and you haven't stated how many miles are on your bike.

The early Gen II's it seems it was talked about quite a bit. My 07 was pretty bad, so bad it would even start in gear while cold. When I say that, the bike was in first gear with the clutch pulled in and the kickstand up and you could feel the bike pulling forward and it wouldn't break loose.

I was new to the form and had read about the clutch soak but brought it to the dealer and had them do it on warranty as I was still a bit intimidated by the metric stuff.

The reason I ask miles is if it's low mileage it could very well be a clutch soak is required. I'd start with all of the other suggestion's first including the bleed of hydraulic system, air can be a real pain.

My 2015 got worse over time and exhibited the same systems you are mentioning. It finally got to the point when you start the bike it stalled exactly as you mentioned. Did the clutch soak and all was well again. It's been fine ever since. Roughly 2 or 3 hours of work not including the overnight soak. I didn't need a new gasket even though I bought 2 of them.

Dave

Never needed (so far) on my 2003. It was 7xx into the country when the model was first introduced.

I also haven't needed a clutch soak on either of my Gen II bikes. It is, however, an issue that many have encountered. It is very rare that this will have to be done more than once for a particular bike. By the way, I see very little value in "soaking" overnight. Some have noted some black crud on the fiber disks and steels - I would scrub that off using oil and a green Scotchbrite pad. After that, I can see very little value in soaking the fiber disks for more than an hour or so. Not like they are extremely porous and will continue to absorb oil.

wfooshee said:

Sample clutch lever bushing wear...

Click to expand...

That's exactly how mine looked when my clutch was being "sticky".

Like RK above, my Gen2 never needed the clutch soak done on it. Another thing I've experienced, didn't think about b/c it's still very warm here: 20-50w engine oil will make my bike lurch when starting when it's been ~60*f or below overnight. Never to the point of stalling but just a momentary lurch until the plates break loose.

My son has (my old) '03, and I have the newer Gen 3 2013.

The '03 has a definite clunk when going N to 1st. Simple things first are ... Shift up to 2nd

... Hold in Clutch and blip the throttle... count to 3 and shift to 1st

.... switch to synthetic 5w-40 oil

... bleed the the clutch fluid

... R/R and/or lube the shift lever bushing

.... look into a clutch soak,,,, (we've never needed to go that far) YMMV

FYI: Never, ever done a clutch soak. Soon to be 69,000 miles on my 2015, all but 0.5 miles under my own butt. I'd check clutch lever bushing and clutch cable settings first.

(Lent it to a hoon for ten minutes who almost got it to wheelie. Couldn't get the key back fast enough.)

Uncle Hud said:

FYI: Never, ever done a clutch soak. Soon to be 69,000 miles on my 2015, all but 0.5 miles under my own butt. I'd check clutch lever bushing and clutch cable settings first.

Click to expand...

Clutch cable???

OK, maybe don't worry about the clutch cable tension.

Is the bushing available as a separate part or do you need to buy lever ??? I'm sure I could use a new one by now.

Part # ?? never mind found it 3gm-26455-00 $6-7 bucks

Separate, consumable part. Common going back to 1984 Gold Wings (at least).