YCC-S issue?

Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum

Help Support Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

YummYam

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 26, 2012
Messages
524
Reaction score
79
Location
Valrico, FL
So just asking. Bike is 2007 AE, c27k miles and a couple times in last say 3k when at standstill in neutral, flicking paddle or lever results in no response of any kind. No clonks, clunks or display changes.

Persisting a couple times results in normal operation eventually.

Anyone else had similar issues and found answers or had more probs?

Thanks,

Steve

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Got over 80K mi. on my '07 AE, and never had that problem; make sure you have the brakes on, that might help?

 
Last edited by a moderator:
No errors, just lack or reaction? Whenever there is an issue with YCC the first thing to check is the battery IMHO, especially in autumn when it starts to get colder.

 
'06 AE. I've had a few times (maybe three) where it wouldn't shift from Neutral to first until I rocked it back and forth a few inches. Then all was good.

 
'06 AE. I've had a few times (maybe three) where it wouldn't shift from Neutral to first until I rocked it back and forth a few inches. Then all was good.
Thanks for your responses guys, very helpful having different scenarios to ponder on.

Wnyfjr.......that’s closest. Next time it (if it) happens I’ll remember your tip.

No I won’t remember, just break out in a muck sweat.

A buddy of mine on here has an ‘06 AE that has been off the road for ever coz it will not shift.

Steve

 
My 2008 AE sometimes does this and I read in the owners manual section 3 page 3 explains what to do to get in neutral so it will roll. Plus . I get a SHIFT light comes on and trans is stuck in what ever gear your end. Book explains how to move the linkage to get it back in neutral again and turn key off/on all is fine. Is it Will see what error codes come in diagnostic mode I read that some need system bleed and checks for internal pressure leaks reseal or replace cylinder etc . Will have friend find the wires DIAG and check for codes for this part of the system.

 
I've had issues downshifting too quickly a fews years back, 'n a feller on here named Brodie mentioned something about lining up a hole? Changing my shifting style purdie much cured my issue, butt, while replacing my shock the other day, I think I see what @Brodie was talking about. (Hope he can chime in here?)

My holes (Circled inj red.) line up perfectly, do yours?

NT2Evro.jpg


 
-Engine warm enough? mine is cold blooded and either will not shift or will clonk into gear if not warmed up enough.

-Sidestand down? :)

-I once got the yellow light and an error code when I had a huge tank bag and it hit the on/off switch for the hand paddles.

-Agree. Rocking bike helps

-Blip the throttle (in neutral)

 
The bike won't shift out of neutral if your RPMs are too high. Make sure your idle RPM is set properly.

The sidestand must be up.

The brake must be applied. Makes sure your brake light is lighting up when you squeeze the brake handle.

 
I've had issues downshifting too quickly a fews years back, 'n a feller on here named Brodie mentioned something about lining up a hole? Changing my shifting style purdie much cured my issue, butt, while replacing my shock the other day, I think I see what @Brodie was talking about. (Hope he can chime in here?)My holes (Circled inj red.) line up perfectly, do yours?

NT2Evro.jpg
It has been to cold to check the hole in your picture or to excess the YCC-S connector and jump the two pins and run DIAG and check for the SHIFT codes. We logged another 300 miles and a lot in traffic, changing my riding style has helped I guess, as I have learned how to shift it smooth from a stop. 40 plus years with a hand clutch. Old habits took a few hundred miles to change after you are parked on the side of the road. Glad I rocked it the first time and made it back home only for it to do it again in front the wife at our driveway, she was going for ride. NOT . Got the owners manual out and read how to adjust the tranny manual by putting bike on center stand and rotate the back tire while pushing on trans linkage to place it in neutral. Now with it in neutral, turn key OFF/ON to re-set. All has been fine after being more patient on the ECU and when it will and WON'T shift. Will post up after we check YCC-S DIAG, wish I had the pig tail for the YCC-S connector like Ray is making for the ABS. It has a switch and stays on the bike no pins to jump. Reading the huge Service Book plus everyone's advice here has been a HUGE help. Thanks..... will post up the codes and check that hole and screw alignment too and check brake switches etc .

Thanks to all

Louis

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Banjoboy thanks for the pic and info same to others, we checked the screw hole it's centered and bolts are tight no cracks in mounting tabs. Lubed and checked everything that moves in the YCC-S system.

TODAY we went thru the DIAG for the YCC-S and cleared code 45 ...... Gear Position Has NOT changed by actuator.

We checked everything in the book and everyone's items to look at. Drove it all afternoon works PERFECT.

We jumped the pins again after riding t and NO CODES.

My guess it was ME ......... NOT waiting on the trans to shift. DO NOT tap on the lever more then ONE time and BACK OFF the throttle when shifting UP/DOWN and so far 400 miles of NO locking up the trans in 3 etc and SHIFT light come on and disengages the YCC-S.

SO We went father into YCC-S DIAG to Diagnostic Code SH__66 to Adjust the clutch engagement position.

When we tried to WRITE changes to EE-PROM The shift actuator button was suppose to come on for 2 SECONDS AFTER you PUSH

the Hand Shift Button FOR 0.3 seconds ........... WTF..... 1/3 of a SECOND.

So after many times of trying this and the light would not come on to write. My friend tried 3 SECONDS and it WORKED. SECTION 8- Page 179 bottom of Checking Method in Service Manual is a MIS PRINT GRRRR 0.3 SECOND .............. should be 3 SECONDS.

I rode around today with the Service manual in the trunk with a DIY jumper and long needle nose in case I wanted to change the clutch engagement RPM UP/DOWN.

THANKS TO ALL THAT POSTED ............Now my AE is a pleasure to drive in traffic now, smooth starts and NO clutch lever,as my arthritis hurts for days in my left hand if I get caught in stop/go traffic. Looking forward to spring and riding up to the Ozark Mountains in Arkansas from Texas again.

Louis

 
UPDATE

RAYzererman ABS harness that is for sale ($7.00) ALSO works on the YCC-S connector on my GEN II 2008 AE model so you can clear codes in the DIAG for the YCC-S.

It's a black connector under the glove box near the Left fork tube, I was able to unplug it without removing any body panels.

Hope this helps other AE owners.

Louis

 
Top