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Replacing the Clutch Slave Cylinder with Gen-I


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#1 HaulinAshe

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Posted 04 April 2008 - 07:31 AM

Some owners choose to replace the clutch slave cylinder on the Gen-II (2006-) models with a Gen-I (-2005) unit. Listed below is the parts diagram and other information that may help you make this change, if you desire to do so.

2005 FJR 1300A - CLUTCH
The clutch slave cylinder is Item #28 in the diagram.
The Yamaha Part# is: 5JW-16381-00-00, described as PUSH LEVER COMP.
Current (2008) price of the part is approximately $67.



Many owners have found the larger piston diameter of the Gen-I clutch slave cylinder helps reduce the required pull force on the clutch lever. It is believed that Yamaha changed the design of the Gen-II bikes to accommodate requirements of both the "A" and "AE" models using the same slave cylinder.

Changeout of the clutch slave cylinder is very straightforward. It does not require any replacement gasket and no adjustments must be made. A simple, two-bolt mechanical changeout and subsequent bleeding of the clutch hydraulic system is all that's required.

Estimated time from start to completion is less than 45 minutes.
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#2 Panman

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Posted 04 April 2008 - 10:52 AM

Thanks for the info Jeff. I hear that the Gen 2 has a smaller bore for a quicker dis-ingagement on the AE. I've been thinking about pulling the plates on my 07 as I'm thinking that it has the gummed up plates and had thought about changing the slave at the same time.
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#3 38 Ford

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Posted 04 April 2008 - 04:47 PM

QUOTE (Panman @ Apr 4 2008, 12:52 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Thanks for the info Jeff. I hear that the Gen 2 has a smaller bore for a quicker dis-ingagement on the AE. I've been thinking about pulling the plates on my 07 as I'm thinking that it has the gummed up plates and had thought about changing the slave at the same time.



When I changed out the slave on my 07 I had to adjust the clutch lever all the way out for the clutch to work right. I noticed that the stock clutch lever ball was hitting the grip and taking about
1/2 inch of lever travel away. I bent the lever so that it would be parallel with the grip and now I can back the adjustment off to a #4. It works great and the clutch pull is very light.
Harold

#4 Nikk

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Posted 09 November 2008 - 01:36 PM

Is the goal of this replacement to reduce the required clutch lever tension?

Does this affect the point of engagement in the lever's travel?

I'm OK with the clutch lever tension; but would like to get the engagement point about an 1" further out from the grips.
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#5 kurt

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Posted 09 November 2008 - 03:16 PM

QUOTE (Nikk @ Nov 9 2008, 03:36 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Is the goal of this replacement to reduce the required clutch lever tension?

Does this affect the point of engagement in the lever's travel?

I'm OK with the clutch lever tension; but would like to get the engagement point about an 1" further out from the grips.


Yes to both, bu it puts the friction point closer to the bar unfortunately.

#6 ahchiu

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Posted 17 September 2009 - 09:44 PM

QUOTE (JeffAshe @ Apr 4 2008, 08:31 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Some owners choose to replace the clutch slave cylinder on the Gen-II (2006-) models with a Gen-I (-2005) unit. Listed below is the parts diagram and other information that may help you make this change, if you desire to do so.

2005 FJR 1300A - CLUTCH
The clutch slave cylinder is Item #28 in the diagram.
The Yamaha Part# is: 5JW-16381-00-00, described as PUSH LEVER COMP.
Current (2008) price of the part is approximately $67.



Many owners have found the larger piston diameter of the Gen-I clutch slave cylinder helps reduce the required pull force on the clutch lever. It is believed that Yamaha changed the design of the Gen-II bikes to accommodate requirements of both the "A" and "AE" models using the same slave cylinder.

Changeout of the clutch slave cylinder is very straightforward. It does not require any replacement gasket and no adjustments must be made. A simple, two-bolt mechanical changeout and subsequent bleeding of the clutch hydraulic system is all that's required.

Estimated time from start to completion is less than 45 minutes.


Where did you get the part for $67.00. Local dealer was $120.00,

Thanks,

Marcus
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#7 Patriot

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Posted 17 September 2009 - 09:55 PM

QUOTE (ahchiu @ Sep 18 2009, 12:44 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Where did you get the part for $67.00. Local dealer was $120.00,

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#8 ahchiu

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Posted 18 September 2009 - 11:48 AM

QUOTE (Patriot @ Sep 17 2009, 10:55 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
QUOTE (ahchiu @ Sep 18 2009, 12:44 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Where did you get the part for $67.00. Local dealer was $120.00,

Gary McCoy at Mondak Motorsports 1-866-433-6635

I called Gary McCoy and they gave me a price of $71.98.

BTW you need to ask for the FJR Fourm discount, they list for $120.14

Thanks
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#9 not2shabby

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Posted 21 September 2009 - 05:38 AM

Inflation. Original post was on 4/4/08.
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#10 BigBlu13

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Posted 31 December 2010 - 03:29 PM

This topic caught my attention (Clutch lever tension) cause there are only two things that I am concern abouth this wonderful 06 FJR 1300A that I got 4 months ago. Throttle and cluch lever tension. My question is if you change the cluch slave with gen2 will you have to adjustor bent cluch lever as 38 ford was saying. While I am here is there any idea on the throttle as well. Need help so I can put more miles on this bike. I only have 1200 miles on it.Got the bike with 77 on the odo and a dealer sticker change odo at a little over 400 miles. Thanks.

#11 Dr. Jekyll

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Posted 02 January 2011 - 02:45 PM

I'm interested in reducing my clutch pull as well but don't want to adjust the lever location. Has everyone who changed the slave back needed to bend the lever? Thanks!

I'm interested in reducing my clutch pull as well but don't want to adjust the lever location. Has everyone who changed the slave back needed to bend the lever? Thanks!
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#12 FjrSwed

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Posted 31 March 2013 - 09:23 AM

I open up this dead thread again. Has anyone tried with a replacement clutch lever instead of bending the oem one?


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#13 SLK50

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Posted 31 March 2013 - 02:28 PM

The lever location doesn't change, the engagement point does.
No need to bend the lever, they're adjustable.

#14 ahchiu

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Posted 31 March 2013 - 03:24 PM

I open up this dead thread again. Has anyone tried with a replacement clutch lever instead of bending the oem one?

I replaced my slave and got Pazzo levers, they have more adjustments than OEM levers, and I have got a sweet spot for engagement point.


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#15 FjrSwed

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Posted 01 April 2013 - 03:04 AM

Thx for the feedback guys. I found this on ebay, should there be any problems with an used parts?

 

http://www.ebay.co.u...r-/181098630267

 

I also thinking of buying this lever from touratech for better adjustment settings.

 

http://shop.touratec...613-0303-0.html


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#16 RaYzerman19

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Posted 01 April 2013 - 04:27 AM

Because of the larger piston, it takes more stroke to push more fluid, therefore the change in engagement point closer to the handlebars.  I got a used slave for $25, and I put on Pazzo's.  You will have to adjust any lever in this setup to move it away from the bars at least one more position.  Shorter fingers may not like it.


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#17 ahchiu

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Posted 01 April 2013 - 06:33 AM

Thx for the feedback guys. I found this on ebay, should there be any problems with an used parts?

 

http://www.ebay.co.u...r-/181098630267

 

I also thinking of buying this lever from touratech for better adjustment settings.

 

http://shop.touratec...613-0303-0.html

Used part  is fine just make sure you clean it good before install, I have my Pazzos set on #5 and the engagment point is about 1/2 " off the grips.


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#18 FjrSwed

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Posted 17 April 2013 - 02:05 AM

Got the used part shipped from UK yeasterday. smile.png  Updating with info when the change is made.


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