112 replies to this topic

[huron52]

Just as a update

41,000kms check
86,000kms check
134,000kms check
172,000kms check
216,000kms check and change shims on two intakes(actually they were within spec but at the edge)

"...st the edge" tight? Or loose?

I would say tight

[Fred W]

Just as a update

41,000kms check
86,000kms check
134,000kms check
172,000kms check
216,000kms check and change shims on two intakes(actually they were within spec but at the edge)

"...st the edge" tight? Or loose?

I would say tight

Do you by chance have the full clearances history? That would be interesting.

[SCB]

After reading Torch's description here and Fred W's description here of this procedure (along with lots of other great content on this forum), I decided to tackle this myself as part of my Big Winter Maintenance project (plugs, oil/filter, coolant, PAIR plates, final drive oil, TBS).

Disassembly was uneventful, thanks to the very clear instructions. Like everyone else who does this job, my hope was that all valves would be within spec and I would be one of the lucky group who get to skip lifting the cams and go directly to reassembly. I followed Torch's instruction to "Rotate the engine so the cam lobes are 180 degrees from the lifter surface", reached up to slip the .006" feeler gauge in that 4-2 valve and...no-go. Just barely a no-go but a no-go. Crap! After verifying it by checking it from every possible direction, rolling the engine over and trying it again, even switching to another set of feeler gauges, I accepted the fact that I was going to have to lift at least the intake cam. Turns out all the rest of the valves were OK with the exhaust valves all perfect at .008" go, .009" no-go. All other intake valves were on the tight-ish side of spec at .006" go, .007" no-go, with the 1-1 valve a very tight .006".

In preparation for lifting the intake cam I reread the FSM regarding valve check/adjustment. I noticed that it specified checking clearance with each piston at TDC. This occurs when the "T" mark on the pickup coil rotor aligns with the split in the crankcase and results in the cam lobes (sort of) pointing away from each other, a different position than Torch specifies. Given this glimmer of hope, I decided to re-check the clearances and...VOILA, all OK! The 4-2 intake valve was still tight-ish at .006" but a definite "go".

Now I had conflict. To adjust or not to adjust, that is the question. After much internal debate and based on Fred's comments here I decided to follow the FSM-based results, leave it as-is, button it back up and drive it.

Just thought I'd pass along my experience as I hadn't really seen much discussion of this.

[TomInCA]

Ya done good!

I had to try the FSM approach of rotating the engine counter clockwise before I figured out, this thread is right and the manual is wrong.

[SCB]

Hmmm...did not notice that. Did you do it that way? Did it screw anything up?

[Fred W]

Now I had conflict. To adjust or not to adjust, that is the question. After much internal debate and based on Fred's comments here I decided to follow the FSM-based results, leave it as-is, button it back up and drive it.

Just thought I'd pass along my experience as I hadn't really seen much discussion of this.

I am clearly biased, but I think that you dun good. I have two or three valves that are a tight .006. But they were that way on my first check and had not moved on my second one. That .006 is a number selected by the engineers intended to give you enough wear margin to make it to the next check without any problems.

edit - I also just use the rear wheel to bump the engine around. Easy peasy to figure out which way to turn that.

[RadioHowie]

edit - I also just use the rear wheel to bump the engine around. Easy peasy to figure out which way to turn that.

As long as you remember not to put the gearbox in "reverse".

[Fred W]

edit - I also just use the rear wheel to bump the engine around. Easy peasy to figure out which way to turn that.

As long as you remember not to put the gearbox in "reverse".

Oh crap!

(goes out to look for reverse gear)

[yamatour]

Ok, I bought my 06 in a previously loved state, 24K on the odometer. I asked the shop to check the valves at 28, but my favorite SM spaced it out and it didn't get done, ok, we'll do it next time. The previous owner is a recognized expert in the field and had excellent records of all shop and self maintenance done, he didn't to the valve check...

So I get around to it after the Florida Mountain 1000, out and back from San Antonio...34K on the clock now.
I get an oil change, inspection sticker, and valve check; in spec and we also drain the coolant so that is done.
$425 and I am out the door. I think I will get the next one about 55K.

My riding technique is not aggressive, but I do roll right along on the super-slab. I am trying to get the most out of the tires, mileage etc, just to train for bigger rallies where efficiency probably counts more than we think.

FNG IBA 50133

[rickcorwn]

I just updated my vote to show the 3rd valve check that was just done, no adjustment needed. I've done the first 2 with a friend who has a nice warm shop and lots of tools but this time it went to the dealer. I bumped into the service manager at a winter MC gathering and talked with him about getting the spider recall done and my lack of a good trailer to get my bike to the shop. No problem he says we'll pick it up if we're down your way, they're 50 miles from my house. I asked about the cost of the valve check he thought he could give me a break on the cost as the tank and stuff would already be off. So they picked up in an enclosed trailer, did the recall, checked the valves (all in spec) and returned the bike to my house for $168. A heck of a good deal in my eyes. Moon Motors, Monticello MN.

[Bill]

In preparation for lifting the intake cam I reread the FSM regarding valve check/adjustment. I noticed that it specified checking clearance with each piston at TDC. This occurs when the "T" mark on the pickup coil rotor aligns with the split in the crankcase and results in the cam lobes (sort of) pointing away from each other, a different position than Torch specifies. Given this glimmer of hope, I decided to re-check the clearances and...VOILA, all OK! The 4-2 intake valve was still tight-ish at .006" but a definite "go".

Just thought I'd pass along my experience as I hadn't really seen much discussion of this.

When I checked mine, I used the method that Torch recommended and the method outlined in the Yamaha Service Manual.

Measuring the valves when the cam lobes were pointed straight up resulted in 7 valves measuring .001" tighter than measuring when the cam lobes were pointed outward as called for in the Service Manual.

Don't know why this occurs but I'd previously read about this happening in a posting on www.fjriders.com

[Fingerflicker]

I had my 1st valve check at 65K miles and all was OK. My mechanic said the #4 cylinder exhaust (outboard) valve was a "little tight", but nothing to worry about.
Got 105K miles now and thinking about getting them checked again this year.

[carlson_mn]

I just updated my vote to show the 3rd valve check that was just done, no adjustment needed. I've done the first 2 with a friend who has a nice warm shop and lots of tools but this time it went to the dealer. I bumped into the service manager at a winter MC gathering and talked with him about getting the spider recall done and my lack of a good trailer to get my bike to the shop. No problem he says we'll pick it up if we're down your way, they're 50 miles from my house. I asked about the cost of the valve check he thought he could give me a break on the cost as the tank and stuff would already be off. So they picked up in an enclosed trailer, did the recall, checked the valves (all in spec) and returned the bike to my house for $168. A heck of a good deal in my eyes. Moon Motors, Monticello MN.

Hell of a deal there Rick compared to what others pay, good shop there to recognize the time savings... I just did my valves today as well. First check on this FJR, 27k miles and all of them right in the middle of spec. Shoot me a message next time you want to do it and we can get it done in no time.... don't need no stinkin' shops....

[ktown]

I neglected my first valve check with hesitant procrastination. I had this poll and thought dragging it out was the ticket since 26k came and went almost 8000 miles ago. But due a oil change , coolant change and induction cover plates. I had voices telling it was time!
Other than Texas heat the event went relatively smooth. Taking the right handle bar loose made it easier to get the cover back on the engine. All the valves checked on the upper tolerance. E1 and I1 were tenths less.
The body syncs were less than a quarter segment off from last March's cruise install and after all back together this w.e..

[Fred W]

It is unusual that the intakes would be at the upper end of the spec. What did you get for readings?

[Harald]

Accomplished my second valve check at 62,000 miles and all valves are still within tolerance.

[ktown]

To answer Fred W, all the exhausts were a tight
.010 " except e1-.009" loose but very tough. 010"

All intakes except again cylinder 1 intake were tight. 008". I1 was loose. 008" but could hardly get the. 009"loose to get in.
Seeing as the conscensus is longer it goes tighter it is I left well enough.
Most of the oil I have used has been Mobil delvac diesel 5w-40 and transitioning to Rotella T6

[Fred W]

To answer Fred W, all the exhausts were a tight
.010 " except e1-.009" loose but very tough. 010"

All intakes except again cylinder 1 intake were tight. 008". I1 was loose. 008" but could hardly get the. 009"loose to get in.
Seeing as the conscensus is longer it goes tighter it is I left well enough.
Most of the oil I have used has been Mobil delvac diesel 5w-40 and transitioning to Rotella T6

Thanks for the reply. Yes it does sound like your bike has valve lash all on the loose side for some reason. When I'm measuring the clearance I pretty much just go with whatever the largest size feeler is that I can even jam in there. They are pretty thin, so there's not much chance that you'll overcome the valve spring's pressure with a wimpy thin gauge blade.

As mentioned earlier, the general consensus is that these engines come out of manufacturing with the intakes at the lower end of the spec range and the exhausts about in the middle. I guess the only thing to watch on your bike is if the gaps are actually growing over time, which would indicate that you may be getting excessive carbon deposits on the valve seats and valve faces. If you are rider that doesn't get a chance to "open 'er up" too often you may want to consider using some sort of fuel additive to help keep the carbon in check (Yamaha Ring Free is highly regarded around here)

[ktown]

I thought I should follow up my reply and to everyone else that follows this valve check especially Fred W.
Prior to doing the valve check I ran a local(?) additive RXP to be sure carbon wouldn't be a factor ? I ran one bottle that is suppose to be good for 20-25 gallons of fuel. I ran consecutive tanks and use Shell regular consistently. Now whether that had much to do but did that anyways.I have used Chevron 's Techron also prior. My habit with all my vehicles has been to use RXP after every oil change and prior to it I used Techron
Yes, I do not wring it out .

What would be the suggested recheck seeing as my bike is out of norm ? I don't really care to exchange coolant soon, but!

[Fred W]

Interesting that you had already taken steps to decarbonize. Maybe what you used is not aggressive enough?
It may be that yours is a rare example where the valves came from the factory a bit wider. Or maybe your feeler gauges are FUBAR?

I'd just stick to the standard valve check schedule, unless you notice something awry. If the clearances are growing, unlike with the opposite case of shrinking clearances, it isn't a dangerous thing. It would just eventually cause degraded engine performance due to altered timing. If the next check shows the clearances are bigger still, then you might want to consider a more radical decarbonizing regime.