Fuse block preference

Lots of stuff in 'search' on fuse blocks, but couldn't find this addressed. I have a number of powered accessories on my '05,(Zumo, modulator, Stebel airhorn, gerbing wiring) and am adding a radar detector and Hella FF50's. Between the FZ1, Blue Sea and Centech, what's 'da bomb among fuse blocks?

Thanks.

Jack.

I like the combo fuze block and relay offered by https://fuzeblocks.com. Unit is smaller than the BueSea and has an integrated Relay. Pretty clever design in that you have the option of (6) terminals either direct 12 volt or switched in a nice compact package

Pat

FJRPat said:

I like the combo fuze block and relay offered by https://fuzeblocks.com. Unit is smaller than the BueSea and has an integrated Relay. Pretty clever design in that you have the option of (6) terminals either direct 12 volt or switched in a nice compact package
Pat

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Gunny!

What Pat said!

Pretty slick!

I'll have to remember this gem.

I really like the Centech AP2. The size is small, and the quality is good. I mounted mine underneath the rider's seat, and used a pre-made loom from Eastern Beaver that includes a relay. I ran the relay connector by tapping into the running lights using a positap. Easy install. Cost was $58 (bikeeffects.com, use coupon) plus another $35 for the Eastern Beaver relay.

It has 8 inputs: 3 unswitched and 5 switched. I run my GPS and Starcom Adv. unswitched, and the radar, heated vest (55 watts), and Ipod switched.





Pix of Centech installed

SkooterG said:

FJRPat said:

I like the combo fuze block and relay offered by https://fuzeblocks.com. Unit is smaller than the BueSea and has an integrated Relay. Pretty clever design in that you have the option of (6) terminals either direct 12 volt or switched in a nice compact package
Pat

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Gunny!

What Pat said!

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I'm a HUGE Fuzeblock fan. I love how stinkin' simple it is to choose whether a circuit is switched or constant and the size is PERFECT for the tail end off the FJR.

I have the Centech and am not crazy about it. The bottom of the box is the main circuit board and is completely exposed. I ended up fabing a plastic square to cover the bottom. I also made my own relay ($10.00) and tapped into my tail light with a Positap. Otherwise, build quality is good.

If I could do it again I would buy the Fuzeblock.

I'm loving my Fuzeblock too. It's simple stupid easy to install.

Run a + and a - lead from the battery to the Fuzeblock...and then another wire to a switched-power wire.

That's it!!!

Then wiring your gizmos to it is just as simple. Just run a + and - lead from the gizmo to the Fuzeblock.

I am a electronics noob...but this allows me to get things wired on the bike.

I currently have four of the ports in use.

Three switched-sourced to powerlet outlets...and one constant-source to the Garmin 2730.

I will likely utilize last two powering an Autocom and maybe a set of aux lights.

I've got the Blue Seas and it works fine, but I agree it is big and you have to buy and install the relay separately. I have all switched power for my two heat trollers, gps, grips, and accessory outlet. I mounted it under the passenger seat in the tail.

Blue Sea is more powerful and the Fuse Block has multiple boards that allow you to have both powered and not powered items at the same time. Example: The Blue Sea can have 30 amp items each running through it for a total of 100 amps total. I have a 30 amp fuse running for the front heated seat and another 30amp running for the rear heated seat. 2-15 amps each being used for the Powerlet so I can plug in heated gear. Those 4 items require 90 amps. The Audiovox is a 5 amps fuse and the smart tire has a 3 amp fuse totaling 98 amps. I have my bi-Xenon light running directly to the battery and I also have 1 Powerlet running directly off the battery so I can use it to hook up to my battery tender/pwered tank bag/tire pump ect. I am pretty sure that the Fuse Block cannot handle this type of power but maybe someone can chime in and let us know for sure? Blue Sea does not have any Fuse Blocks that can have both powered and not powered items. In the end I needed the power. Here is a cut and paste from FuzeBlocks page.

How much current can the FZ-1 handle?

This isn't as straight forward as you might think. The FZ-1 has two separate current paths. One is for constant power and the other goes through the relay for switched power. Each circuit can handle up to 10A (120W). The total amperage used via the relay (switched power) should not exceed 30A (360W). The total amperage on the constant side should not exceed 30A (360W). The total amperage for the entire FZ-1 should not exceed 30A (360W). However remember the constraints of the relay and each circuit. This allows most people to run a number of accessories. The place where you need to be careful is running halogen lighting or heated gear. You can run these types of devices but you need to know the amount of current they use before hooking them up. Anything that uses electricity will tell you how much power/current it consumes usually given in amps or watts. To get watts from amps just multiple 12V * amps (V*I=P). To get amps from watts just divide watts by 12V (P/V=I). We have a calculator on our site if you need help with calculating power or amps.

Why can't the FZ-1 handle more current?

Space and money. When designing the FZ-1 keeping it small was one of the main requirements. We wanted to be sure that the FZ-1 fit into a small space. Well big current and small copper runs don't work well together. If you want to push big current you need a lot of copper. However a lot of copper requires a bigger board. So we tried to make a compromise between size and current handling capabilities. We reduced the circuits to 6 to widen the runs, made it a 4 layer board with 3 dedicated to the output runs and used 2 ounce copper to make all runs thicker. In the future we may offer something that handles more current if we can solve the space versus current issue.



BLUE SEA

Specifications

Cover Material Polycarbonate

Base Material Reinforced Polycarbonate

Weight Lb (Kg) 0.55 (0.25)

ATO/ATC Fuses Available 1 to 30 Amperes

Maximum Amperage Per Circuit 30 Amperes

Maximum Amperage per Block 100 Amperes

Maximum Voltage Rating 32 Volts DC

I was a big Centech fan and had the AP-1 on my Blackbird and the AP-2 on my Valk but once I saw the Fuzeblock FZ1 I ordered it immediately for my FJR. It's nice not having to mess with a separate relay and it uses the same size fuses as the FJR so I won't have to carry different size spares.

My only problem was that I didn't find out about them until after he was sold out of his first batch so now I am waiting...patiently.

"Those 4 items require 90 amps."

I don't have any hard numbers, but I will bet the farm that those devices use nothing near a total of 90 (!!!) amps. 30 amps of heat at 12 volts (=360 watts) would probably give your butt emergency room injuries, not to mention lighting your bike seat on fire.

Fusing for somewhat higher than the actual load is fine, but one should work with realistic numbers when sizing components. I would think that 10 amps is sufficient for all but perhaps a few accessories. Even two 55 watt lights together only draw a total of 9.2 amps.

scmagna said:

"Those 4 items require 90 amps."
I don't have any hard numbers, but I will bet the farm that those devices use nothing near a total of 90 (!!!) amps. 30 amps of heat at 12 volts (=360 watts) would probably give your butt emergency room injuries, not to mention lighting your bike seat on fire.

Fusing for somewhat higher than the actual load is fine, but one should work with realistic numbers when sizing components. I would think that 10 amps is sufficient for all but perhaps a few accessories. Even two 55 watt lights together only draw a total of 9.2 amps.

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The seat feels like my butt is on fire and too hot to sit on unless it is 45 or below and I mean you would need to lift your butt off the seat to ride. 30 amps each is what Rocky suggested when he installed the seats on the bike 6 months ago. The Powerlets suggested 15 amps each for their heated gear and I am sure we would rarely if ever run all of them at the same time. Even FuzeBlock on their own site suggests that you do not use their product for heated gear, lights ect.

Powerlet Install for the 2006 FJR (PDF)

Parts List:

1. 1 – Wiring harness w/ two 15A fuses

2. 1 – Mounting bracket w/ 2 Sockets

3. 5 – Ty-wraps

If you want to be safe with the Fuzeblock for a 15 amp circuit you could always split the circuit between two of the fuse slots each with a 7.5 amp fuse. That's what I'm planning on doing for my switched circuit powelet lead.

SilverHound said:

If you want to be safe with the Fuzeblock for a 15 amp circuit you could always split the circuit between two of the fuse slots each with a 7.5 amp fuse. That's what I'm planning on doing for my switched circuit powelet lead.

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That would work but it is my understanding there is a limit to each bus (powered ect..) that limits it to 30 amps total. Two Powerlets would max out the available amps if I am reading this correctly from their site. That would leave no room to safely add any othre items. That was the main/only reason I went with the Blue Sea over the FuseBlock. I just had it installed last week.

2006FJR said:

SilverHound said:

If you want to be safe with the Fuzeblock for a 15 amp circuit you could always split the circuit between two of the fuse slots each with a 7.5 amp fuse. That's what I'm planning on doing for my switched circuit powelet lead.

Click to expand...

That would work but it is my understanding there is a limit to each bus (powered ect..) that limits it to 30 amps total. Two Powerlets would max out the available amps if I am reading this correctly from their site. That would leave no room to safely add any othre items. That was the main/only reason I went with the Blue Sea over the FuseBlock. I just had it installed last week.

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Sorry, I wasn't referring to your situation as clearly you're pulling a lot of amps. I was talking about those who are just running a few things but one might happen to be something that draws more than the 10amp per circuit max. Like for me, I'll have the 15amp powerlet outlet circuit, 10 for aux lights and then almost next to nothing for the GPS and Voltmeter.

SilverHound said:

2006FJR said:

SilverHound said:

If you want to be safe with the Fuzeblock for a 15 amp circuit you could always split the circuit between two of the fuse slots each with a 7.5 amp fuse. That's what I'm planning on doing for my switched circuit powelet lead.

Click to expand...

That would work but it is my understanding there is a limit to each bus (powered ect..) that limits it to 30 amps total. Two Powerlets would max out the available amps if I am reading this correctly from their site. That would leave no room to safely add any othre items. That was the main/only reason I went with the Blue Sea over the FuseBlock. I just had it installed last week.

Click to expand...

Sorry, I wasn't referring to your situation as clearly you're pulling a lot of amps. I was talking about those who are just running a few things but one might happen to be something that draws more than the 10amp per circuit max. Like for me, I'll have the 15amp powerlet outlet circuit, 10 for aux lights and then almost next to nothing for the GPS and Voltmeter.

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I agree that the FuseBlock is the best of the best for those that do not need the amp draw. The fuse block is by far the best solution but I do hope they come out with a version that allows for more amps that is the same size.

2006FJR said:

The seat feels like my butt is on fire and too hot to sit on unless it is 45 or below and I mean you would need to lift your butt off the seat to ride. 30 amps each is what Rocky suggested when he installed the seats on the bike 6 months ago. The Powerlets suggested 15 amps each for their heated gear and I am sure we would rarely if ever run all of them at the same time. Even FuzeBlock on their own site suggests that you do not use their product for heated gear, lights ect.

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There is something wrong with this picture. Your FJR doesn't have the extra electrical capacity (watts) to power a 30 amp draw (360 watts). And that is just for the seat, much less any other farkle like aux lights.

IIRC, Gen II FJRs have about 200-250 watts of excess electrical power available for operator added farkles. Which is right in the range of the Fuzelbock.

SkooterG said:

2006FJR said:

The seat feels like my butt is on fire and too hot to sit on unless it is 45 or below and I mean you would need to lift your butt off the seat to ride. 30 amps each is what Rocky suggested when he installed the seats on the bike 6 months ago. The Powerlets suggested 15 amps each for their heated gear and I am sure we would rarely if ever run all of them at the same time. Even FuzeBlock on their own site suggests that you do not use their product for heated gear, lights ect.

Click to expand...

There is something wrong with this picture. Your FJR doesn't have the extra electrical capacity (watts) to power a 30 amp draw (360 watts). And that is just for the seat, much less any other farkle like aux lights.

IIRC, Gen II FJRs have about 200-250 watts of excess electrical power available for operatir added farkles. Which is right in the range of the Fuzelbock.

Click to expand...

I do not run aux lights but I see what you are saying. My main concern with the Fusebox was comments like these, "The place where you need to be careful is running halogen lighting or heated gear. You can run these types of devices but you need to know the amount of current they use before hooking them up..." and "Just remember that the circuit should not exceed 10A...."

The Powerlet device ships with 2-15 amp fuses when you order their kit. Depending on the other items you decide to hook up it just seems like you would always be running at near capacity or more with the FuzeBlock in it's current configuration. I do see that I will never be able to reach anywhere near the amount of amps I am running through the Blue Sea so in the end does that make the Blue Sea or the FuseBlock the better choice? I don't know.....