Gen1 Cam Chain Tensioner (CCT) Replacement Lessons Learned

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BTW, is it a given and NOT advisable to purchase all the parts mail order and only want the local shop to charge me labor when I hand them the parts (less shims, if needed). I guess that would be penny anny and insulting to them and not, if any, save me any $$$ or enough to make it my wild...
my motivation is to expedite the job and not wait on them ordering and getting in parts.

any comment ???
Hell, I've never passed up a reason to comment. :)

I'd talk it over with the Service Manager. Some might appreciate not having to order a box full of parts. Others might be pissed at missing a chance for some parts mark-up.

Lessee, you'd need a set of O-rings for the coolant pipe...the two into the cam cover and the one larger one for the thermostat...the cam chain...at 87K miles, I'd replace the cam cover gasket, jes 'cause...fresh coolant to replace what's dumped removing the coolant pipe (may as well put in fresh)...a new set of plugs, if yours are over 10k miles...that's about it, not counting the shims. Not really a big parts list. Fresh Rotella while it's in the shop?

Anyway, it doesn't hurt to ask.
fresh Rotella in it now, but I'll give 'em a gallon plus a quart if they have to drain the oil to do the work

I like Coolenol, so I'd bring the stuff, as well. Plugs are fresh Iridiums.

If they'd give me an appt with their provided parts ready in hand, that'd be fine with me with reasonable $$$ per hour rate ($85 or less ?) and reasonable markup - I'd ask for a written estimate of the work with what if's.

I'd also tell them NOT to do anything else, like a TBS (unless that's a good idea after the work even though I had one like 5k miles ago) and NOT to replace the final drive oil or whatever like some shops that do a "service" (all fluids, plugs, filters, etc).

Maybe I should throw out the possibility of a "clinic" at SFO ??? :yahoo:

Thanx again

Mike

 
Big props to FJRBluesman for the detailed CCT replacement including pictures. :clapping:

It helped tremendously and I have an 8 and 10mm ratchet wrench (actually the whole set) added to my toolbox. Still slow-going with 5-10 degree strokes , but critical to getting the lower bolt in and out.

Initially, I removed the old tensioner and didn't notice a significant difference in how hard it was to wind the springs, but once the new one was in and buttoned back up the 92,000 mile FJR is quiet once again at idle. And it was long past due, but you know how these kinds of projects gnaw at you...but not quite enough to do things until you've got a hard summer of miles in order.

One more thing check-marked off for the 2009 IBR.....about 47 to go. ;)

 
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Glad it helped Ig. I too bought an entire metric set of those little ratcheting wrenches. Like guys need an excuse for more tools. ;)

Now that you've done it, it's not too bad, actually fairly simple.

Ride safe.

 
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Glad it helped Ig. I too bought an entire metric set of those little ratcheting wrenches. Like guys need an excuse for more tools. ;)
Now that you've done it, it's not too bad, actually fairly simple.

Ride safe.

I tried to use the ratcheting wrenches, but am not able to get the head of the wrench over the bolt, as the body of the CCT is too close to it. My regular (non-ratcheting) wrench fits, but can't turn it at all in the narrow gap. My bike is a 2003, with 43K miles on it. The ratcheting set I have is from Sears. But, it is a GearWrench, and not a Craftsman. The last time I was at Sears I visually compared the Craftsman set's head thickness with the one I got, and they seemed to be about the same. So far all my attempts to get that bolt out have failed. Does anyone have an idea or solution that worked on their 2003 model?

Please let me know.

Thank you!

Silverbear

 
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I tried to use the ratcheting wrenches, but am not able to get the head of the wrench over the bolt, as the body of the CCT is too close to it. My regular (non-ratcheting) wrench fits, but can't turn it at all in the narrow gap.... so far all my attempts to get that bolt out have failed. Does anyone have an idea or solution that worked on their 2003 model?
Wrenches are cheap, get several brands of 10mm 12 point box wrenches. Cut them up. Grind on them. Heat and bend them. Modify them in whatever way that will work. It may take half an hour to get the bolts out but it can be done.

You just have to be smarter than steel. :p

Brodie

 
Wrenches are cheap, get several brands of 10mm 12 point box wrenches. Cut them up. Grind on them. Heat and bend them. Modify them in whatever way that will work.
You're assuming we have the other cool tools needed to modify the wrench.

Most of us don't. :(

 
I tried to use the ratcheting wrenches, but am not able to get the head of the wrench over the bolt, as the body of the CCT is too close to it. My regular (non-ratcheting) wrench fits, but can't turn it at all in the narrow gap.... so far all my attempts to get that bolt out have failed. Does anyone have an idea or solution that worked on their 2003 model?
Wrenches are cheap, get several brands of 10mm 12 point box wrenches. Cut them up. Grind on them. Heat and bend them. Modify them in whatever way that will work. It may take half an hour to get the bolts out but it can be done.

You just have to be smarter than steel. :p

Brodie
Brodie,

I was thinking along the same lines, but was hoping for a quicker, off-the shelf solution I have not thought of before.

Thanks for your suggestion, it seems I am heading that way.

Silverbear

 
Glad it helped Ig. I too bought an entire metric set of those little ratcheting wrenches. Like guys need an excuse for more tools. ;) Now that you've done it, it's not too bad, actually fairly simple.

Ride safe.
I tried to use the ratcheting wrenches, but am not able to get the head of the wrench over the bolt, as the body of the CCT is too close to it. My regular (non-ratcheting) wrench fits, but can't turn it at all in the narrow gap. My bike is a 2003, with 43K miles on it. The ratcheting set I have is from Sears. But, it is a GearWrench, and not a Craftsman. The last time I was at Sears I visually compared the Craftsman set's head thickness with the one I got, and they seemed to be about the same. So far all my attempts to get that bolt out have failed. Does anyone have an idea or solution that worked on their 2003 model?
Please let me know.

Thank you!

Silverbear
Silverbear - I saw the GearWrench set at Sears and I thought the box end ring was too thick so I didn't buy it. Make sure the ratcheting wrench you buy has a very thin end on the box end, meaning not a big thick ring which would interfere with the CCT as you experienced. I used that picture from the Sears website because that one did fit on mine no issues. I cracked it loose with my standard box end, then used the ratchet for a bit then the rest easily came out by hand. I also left the upper bolt in after I cracked it loose so I could more easily take out the lower without having pressure form the CCT pushing against the bolt. I modified my original post to state that.
BTW - The CCT is the same part number on 2003 - 2005, so you should be able to do this with the tools mentioned. I did it, Iggy did it. If we can do it, anyone can. ;)

Good luck.

 
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Glad it helped Ig. I too bought an entire metric set of those little ratcheting wrenches. Like guys need an excuse for more tools. ;) Now that you've done it, it's not too bad, actually fairly simple.

Ride safe.
I tried to use the ratcheting wrenches, but am not able to get the head of the wrench over the bolt, as the body of the CCT is too close to it. My regular (non-ratcheting) wrench fits, but can't turn it at all in the narrow gap. My bike is a 2003, with 43K miles on it. The ratcheting set I have is from Sears. But, it is a GearWrench, and not a Craftsman. The last time I was at Sears I visually compared the Craftsman set's head thickness with the one I got, and they seemed to be about the same. So far all my attempts to get that bolt out have failed. Does anyone have an idea or solution that worked on their 2003 model?
Please let me know.

Thank you!

Silverbear
Silverbear - I saw the GearWrench set at Sears and I thought the box end ring was too thick so I didn't buy it. Make sure the ratcheting wrench you buy has a very thin end on the box end, meaning not a big thick ring which would interfere with the CCT as you experienced. I used that picture from the Sears website because that one did fit on mine no issues. I cracked it loose with my standard box end, then used the ratchet for a bit then the rest easily came out by hand. I also left the upper bolt in after I cracked it loose so I could more easily take out the lower without having pressure form the CCT pushing against the bolt. I modified my original post to state that.
BTW - The CCT is the same part number on 2003 - 2005, so you should be able to do this with the tools mentioned. I did it, Iggy did it. If we can do it, anyone can. ;)

Good luck.

Thanks, FJRBluesman!

I am going back to Sears, and get the wrench with the part number in your post. I have the replacement part on hand, just need to take out the old one first.

Silverbear

 
I am going back to Sears, and get the wrench with the part number in your post. I have the replacement part on hand, just need to take out the old one first.Silverbear

Silverbear

Just remember once you take the propane torch and hammer to the gear wrench the Craftsman Guaranty is no good any more.

:p

 
I am going back to Sears, and get the wrench with the part number in your post. I have the replacement part on hand, just need to take out the old one first.Silverbear
Bring the part with you, and if you can, bring the upper bolt or a similar one to make sure it fits.
 
I am going back to Sears, and get the wrench with the part number in your post. I have the replacement part on hand, just need to take out the old one first.Silverbear
Bring the part with you, and if you can, bring the upper bolt or a similar one to make sure it fits.
FJRBluesman

Well, I went back to Sears - twice. The first time I got the 8mm ratcheting wrench you mentioned in your post. You were right, it is much thinner than the GearWrench I got earlier. But, the gap between the CCT body and the bolt head was too tight, and when the wrench almost went on the bolt, the bottom of the wrench was resting against the bottom edge of the frame spar - no movement was possible. What ended up working like a charm for me though, is a long 1/4 in. wobble extension that I got as part of a kit from Harbor Freight, a 1.5 in long, 1/4 in. wobble extension from Sears, and an 8 mm socket. I pushed the socket (mounted onto the 1.5 in wobble extension) onto the long wobble after I passed that through the frame slot. In seconds I was able to loosen and unwind the lower bolt half way, then I just turned the bolt with my fingers (from top and bottom) until the bolt came out completely. Your instructions for removing the CCT through the bottom worked out great, and in no time I was able to reinstall the new CCT by reversing the steps. The double wobble contraption worked great for tightening the bolts also (top and bottom).

Thanks again for you post and all your suggestions!

Sincerely,

Silverbear

 
My 2005 ticking seems to have gone away with a bottle of Techron.

I now realize that my cam chain is making noise.

The dealer says that it is "not excessive".

I ordered a new CCT and gasket. I already have the tools.

I ordered the parts and I think I can do it myself.

Thanks for all the work you have done on this great post!

This forum has been a great help to me and my FJR.

~Harvey

 
About that internal screw in the CCT:

Does it rotate as the plunger moves?

If not, how many times do I turn it CCW after the CCT is installed?

Thanks.

 
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