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GEN II Plastic and Cowling Removal


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#1 kaitsdad

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Posted 25 April 2009 - 06:36 PM

*
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Tools needed:

Not too many.

1. Stubby Phillips #1. The driver I use has a ratcheting ability which can come in handy in close quarters.

2. 4mm Hex key. I prefer straight tip, however a ball tip will work, just be careful as they can easily strip out the socket.

3. Probe or pick, or even a small hex key to remove the bayonet fasteners. I find that a 90 degree pick works exceptionally well, unless you drop it on the ground and kneel on it. DAMHIK.

4. 3mm Hex key - for the windshield. No picture, but I bet you can imagine what it looks like.

5. 5 mm Hex key - see number 4.

6. 10 mm socket driver.




I've taken these instructions from a Yamaha Tech Bulletin describing how to remove the plastic. I've added in a note or two here based upon my personal experience. YMMV. The illustrations have colored circles and arrows and such on them, showing where the various items are. Keep in mind there are NO colored circles or arrows on your bike. rolleyes.gif

First, you might want to pick up some spare fasteners - I have yet to pull the plastic (which I have now done 5 times) without damaging or losing a fastener. The bayonet fasteners come in two different lengths - so have some of each. After my first attempt at this (I spent almost 10 hours just removing the plastic) I pulled the parts out of the on-line part fiche, and ordered 10 of each from Gary McCoy. I've since used many of them on my bike, as well as other FJR's that happen to stop by. There are the push-center bayonet fasteners - two lengths, Phillips head bayonet fasteners; 4 mm socket head screws with two or three types; little nylon 'washers' that go under the socket heads, etc.

Were this my first time, I would try to have at least the bayonet style fasteners. Those seem to destruct or get lost the easiest.

If you're anal about scratches or scrapes in your paint, pick up a roll of the blue painters' tape - about 2 or 3 " width. You can apply this to edges of the cowling before removing it. Personally, my bike is a workhorse, and I don't go to extreme lengths to eliminate scratches.

Have on hand a small container that will be able to hold the many fasteners as you remove them. DO NOT set it on the ground - kicking it can absolutely ruin your day.

And be patient. If something isn't giving, don't force it. Back away from it, eyeball it some more, and give it another try. My first attempt (without the instructions) had a twelve hour interruption due to sleeping.

1. Remove the windshield.
a. Remove 2 ea 3mm button head screws under "W".

b. Remove the 7 ea nylon/plastic screws under the "W" - these hold on the shield itself.


Now the heads on these screws are easily stripped out, so you might want to add them to your spares list. I know that some folks will say to themselves "Geeezzz.. plastic screws. How effing cheap can you get !!! I'm gonna replace them with high quality stainless steel button head screws!" DON'T. These are plastic for a reason - that being that they will break off in an impact, allowing your head to remain intact rather than slicing open your caratoid artery on your way over the handlebars. Stick with the plastic. I found a very reasonable replacement at McMaster Carr. I found that removing the center (red circle) screw last makes for a clean release, and easy handling.

2. Remove the A, B, C and D panels. (The panels letter from lower left to lower right) The sequence of removal is actually A, D, C then B.

a. Remove fasteners from A and B panels.


There are three 4mm hex head screws - they may be silver or anodized black in color. I've seen both. There are two bayonet fasteners on the side - I've used green circles here to show approximate locations. Use the pick or whatever you're using to push in the centers and then pull them out. And I screwed up - there is another bayonet fastener in the B panel - I didn't put a circle around that one. Remove it. In the picture it's to the right of the adjustment knob.
Remove the phillips head screw inside of the storage box.

b. Remove fasteners from D and C panels.

There are again three 4mm hex head screws, and two bayonet fasteners - one each on D and C, as shown by the green circles.

OK. Now that you've removed the fasteners, the A and D panels should lift or slide right out. Eazy Peazy. The B and C panels are a bit more difficult. Start with the B panel, grab it, and start pulling. Use a free hand to push the top of the cowling away from the panel - don't worry, you won't break it. It's kind of like Tupperware, very flexible to a point. You almost have to "POP" them free. Once you have the B panel free, lay it down so that the back is visible, you will see the headlight adjustment cable thumb wheel fitting on the back.

NOTE: The instructions say to remove the adjustment knob on the outside of the panel - but don't. Save yourself a good amount of time, and just unscrew the thumb wheel, and then slide the cable out from the panel.


This works on both sides - and you'll be good to go.

NOTE: Take a minute at this point to really examine the routing for the adjustment cables. They are very short and stiff, and when the cowling is re-mounted, if that same path is not followed, you will have to remove the cowling again to gain the correct routing path.


3. Remove the Mirrors.

Each mirror is held in place by two 10mm flange nuts. You will need your trusty 10mm socket here - I find a universal joint with a deep socket works well. Remove the flange nuts, being careful not to drop them, and be ready to support the mirror.



NOTE: These nuts were normally loose in the early GenII bikes - with one forum member actually finding her mirror on the bed of the trailer when she arrived home with her new bike. When you reassemble, I would suggest a dab of blue Loctite solid just to help hold them on. Losing one's mirror when riding can have very poor effects on your ability to check how good you look.

4. Remove Outer and Inner windshield mount.
a. Remove Outer Mount - You'll need a 10MM socket and a 5MM hex key.
Obviously there's two of each.

b. Remove Inner Mount - 4 each 5MM hex head socket screws.

c. Push the arms inside of the cowling - they may drift out before you remove the cowling, so just shove them back in.

5. Remove adjustable side vents.
a. Remove the "nickel" turn fasteners - two on each side. Pull them out once loose, they only take 1/4 turn. Using a flat blade screwdriver, push open the retaining clips. The panels should just pop right out.


NOTE: These panels can give the appearance of being fastened in - when they aren't. Early users of the GenII bikes sometimes found that when they opened them outboard for the warmth, they were ripped off the bike by the windstream. Make certain that you've got them fastened in when you re-install the panels.


6. Remove the left lower cowl panel
a. Remove the 2 screws on the left of the lower center cowl panel.
b. Remove the 2 screws on the bottom of the lower left cowl panel.

NOTE: The screw circled in RED should not be removed. It holds a "joining panel" that the left screw mounts into. If you remove both the left and right screw, you will have a loose "joining panel" and it's lots of fun getting it back into place when you reassemble the panels. DAMHIK.

c. Remove the 4 plastic bayonet fasteners from inside of the lower left and right cowl panel.

d. Remove the 3 screws from the top of the lower left and right cowl panel.
e. Remove the 3 screws from the outside of the lower left cowl panel.
f. Remove the 3 screws from the outside of the lower right cowl panel.
g. Disconnect the left and right turn signal connector.
h. Remove the lower cowlings. Keep in mind that they will drop and hit the ground. You may want to spread out a blanket or some towels or something.


7. Remove the wiring from the storage box.
a. Open the wire clamp on the side of the storage box and free wires.
b. No picture for these:
Clip the zip tie attaching the wire harness to the storage box.
Disconnect the black connector for the accessory power outlet.
Disconnect the connector at the storage box solenoid.
NOTE: Now would be the time to remove the solenoid from the storage box, should you wish to disable the switched opening.

8. Remove the front cowl.
a. Remove the 4 screws retaining the front cowl to the front cowl bracket.
b. Turn the main switch on and open the storage box lid. (If you didn't remove the solenoid, that is.)
c. Disconnect the battery negative terminal.
d. Apply protective tape around the cowling edges should you want to.
e. Push the windshield arms fully down into the slots in the front cowl.
f. Pull the front cowl out and up (on the right side) to disconnect with the right lower cowl.
g. Flex the sides of the upper cowl outward and lift the front cowl up and over the windshield lifting mechanism.
h. Disconnect the left and right headlight couplers at the headlights and remove the front cowling.

That's It !! You're done. To reassemble, just turn your computer monitor over, and use the reverse order.

DISCLAIMER: Hopefully you read this far before you even thought about starting. If you're not willing to assume the risk of doing this, then don't. If you break something, you broke it and you fix it. Like anything else you do with your hands, you're responsible for the results. That being said, I hope that this information helps you.

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#2 Hamie

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Posted 25 April 2009 - 06:41 PM

Never removed any of those panels...thanks for sharing the how-to...
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#3 Roy Epperson

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Posted 25 April 2009 - 06:52 PM

Very nice description!!! Will have to bookmark it as it will come in handy I'm sure.

Do you provide panels with the colored circles on them rolleyes.gif

#4 Silent

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Posted 25 April 2009 - 08:11 PM

Damn nice writeup Hal! Should get this one added to the bin O facts. I kow I'm printing out a copy cool.gif

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#5 Wicked Webby

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Posted 25 April 2009 - 09:18 PM

kaitsdad,

Nice write up.

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#6 Lee B.

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Posted 26 April 2009 - 05:27 AM

"5. Remove adjustable side vents.
a. Remove the "nickel" turn fasteners - two on each side. Pull them out once loose, they only take 1/4 turn. Using a flat blade screwdriver, push open the retaining clips. The panels should just pop right out."

Very nice write up. Thanks for taking on a lot of the learning curve for many!

Wondering about 5a.....removing th epanels. I've tried to pry the little metal clips out from the side so the pael can come loose but was afraid I'd break it so I backed off. Help me do the right thing by telling me what "push open the retaining clips" means. My take is that on the large panel is a metal clip that wraps around a small straight pin sort of thing on the panel. YOu pry the wrap around part open and the pin part lifts out. They have two of these as you know. Am I describing the right thing to do?

Lee

#7 dcarver

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Posted 26 April 2009 - 07:49 AM

Way cool write up Hal, Thank You! Page bookmarked and will be printed when I'm back at work.
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#8 kaitsdad

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Posted 26 April 2009 - 07:59 AM

QUOTE (Lee B. @ Apr 26 2009, 06:27 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
"5. Remove adjustable side vents.
a. Remove the "nickel" turn fasteners - two on each side. Pull them out once loose, they only take 1/4 turn. Using a flat blade screwdriver, push open the retaining clips. The panels should just pop right out."

Very nice write up. Thanks for taking on a lot of the learning curve for many!

Wondering about 5a.....removing th epanels. I've tried to pry the little metal clips out from the side so the pael can come loose but was afraid I'd break it so I backed off. Help me do the right thing by telling me what "push open the retaining clips" means. My take is that on the large panel is a metal clip that wraps around a small straight pin sort of thing on the panel. YOu pry the wrap around part open and the pin part lifts out. They have two of these as you know. Am I describing the right thing to do?

Lee


Lee, take the screwdriver and push down on the tab of the metal clip - essentially spreading it open - and then kind of twist out the panel itself. Again, go slowly, and don't force.

11,031. Hugs and Kisses!
"I don't like that stuff. It makes my head all wobbly."

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#9 bleach

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Posted 26 April 2009 - 08:11 AM

Fricking Cool! That will help a lot of people, including me. Thanks!

#10 wfooshee

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Posted 26 April 2009 - 10:42 AM

Linked to this thread from my Gen-I cowling thread, specifically referencing the storage box and headlight knobs, which later Gen-I bikes have but mine doesn't.
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#11 Lee B.

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Posted 26 April 2009 - 01:26 PM


Lee, take the screwdriver and push down on the tab of the metal clip - essentially spreading it open - and then kind of twist out the panel itself. Again, go slowly, and don't force.
[/quote]

got it! did it. just felt like that should be the way but with the "pin" made out of plastic I wasn't confident enough to just go ahead and work it out of there. having that off sure makes getting the bolts out a lot easier.
thanks again.

#12 Mooseonagoose

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Posted 11 May 2009 - 11:13 PM

I'm just wondering here, ...if I perform steps 6A and 6B only [no desire to remove the entire fairing just now unless I must] should I be able to gently spread the right & left panels far enough remove the lower center cowl panel and the radiator guard [installing an aftermarket guard]?

Your photos & specific firsthand hints are such a huge help!! Thanks So Much for posting this thread!!

#13 wfooshee

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Posted 12 May 2009 - 04:30 AM

If it's like the GenI, the lower center panel is attached inside the fairing, hardware is unreachable unless you remove the fairing. For the radiator, though, I'm not sure you'd need to remove the panel, as it moves aside with the fairing panel when you spread them. Should be good clearance.
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#14 ShinyPartsUp

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Posted 12 May 2009 - 04:48 AM

Just saw this thread Hal. Many many thanks! Another beer I owe you -- I think I'm up to half a case...

I have avoided taking off plastic, except when I had no choice, like when my ignition failed last year, and I needed to check the battery. This write-up decreases the anxiety and lessens the 'ten thumbs' chance of fooking up. Saving this one. Gotta ride down your way and buy you a beer or three...
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#15 Franko

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Posted 14 May 2009 - 06:59 PM

Very terrific write up and photos, kaitsdad. Thanks a million.

I've been farting around trying to remove the upper side fairings for the last couple of hours and was stumped, even with service manual drawings. All I wanted to do was get access to the turn signal wires. Sheesh.

This seems like the only way to access the headlights and signals. Can it be that you actually have to do all this just to change a bulb? It seems crazy.
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#16 wfooshee

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Posted 15 May 2009 - 05:24 AM

Inner dash panels will give you access to the headlight bulbs, but you might have to hire a bright middle-schooler who has small enough hands. As for the turn signal bulbs, lower fairing panels, not upper.

The upper fairing panels are actually the LAST piece of bodywork that comes off, on both Gen-I and Gen-II, and they come off still attached to the nose cowl when that comes off.
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#17 cougar8000

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Posted 04 June 2009 - 10:18 AM

Great write up. Anyone has a real manual that talks about it as well and willing to photo copy those few pages for me?
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#18 Lowcountry Joe

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Posted 04 June 2009 - 06:00 PM

This is what I needed to go forward with some projects. Even studying the very very sorry Yamaha manual, I was never sure of the proper order of removal. Thanks for taking the time to photo and document. It will certainly help all us GenII owners.

Motorcycles are not inherently dangerous..... however if something goes wrong..... they can be exponentially unforgiving.


#19 El Cajone

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Posted 04 June 2009 - 10:19 PM

Nice piece of work. Thanks for taking the time to write this up!

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#20 Potential

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Posted 25 November 2009 - 03:34 PM

Can someone tell me how to disconnect the black solenoid wire for the glove compartment? I've pushed on every part of it but it won't disconnect.