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Installing Flash2Pass


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#1 Crash Cash

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Posted 28 August 2010 - 04:10 PM

Has anyone installed a Flash2Pass on their FJR? Google says "no" apparently. I installed one on my SV-650 and it's nice. It's a lot smaller than it looks on the website and it even fits in the tiny SV headlight bucket.

So I have the choice of which headlight to install it behind... I've never been behind panels C or D, is there any reason to pick one over the other?

#2 RadioHowie

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Posted 28 August 2010 - 04:59 PM

QUOTE (Crash Cash @ Aug 28 2010, 08:10 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Has anyone installed a Flash2Pass on their FJR? Google says "no" apparently. I installed one on my SV-650 and it's nice. It's a lot smaller than it looks on the website and it even fits in the tiny SV headlight bucket.

So I have the choice of which headlight to install it behind... I've never been behind panels C or D, is there any reason to pick one over the other?


A quick up/down/up/down on the hi-lo switch too simple???
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#3 Crash Cash

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Posted 28 August 2010 - 07:55 PM

QUOTE (RadioHowie @ Aug 28 2010, 08:59 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
A quick up/down/up/down on the hi-lo switch too simple???

Uh, actually that IS how it works... then your garage door opens. You connect it to your high-beams.

This replaces the American-engineering I did where I bolted my garage door remote to the little door on my N-103 helmet. I found out with that on, the helmet no longer fits in a side bag.

Edit: God DAMN, it's roasting in that garage. Screw that, I'm moving the FJR into the living room. Also... http://www.f2ptechnologies.com

#4 RAT

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Posted 29 August 2010 - 07:01 AM

Yes....just follow the directions and use the included connectors. I've had mine on for over a year now...no problems......lightning hit my garage door system and had to replace the motherboard and one floor sensor but the Flash to pass suffered no ill effects.

#5 Crash Cash

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Posted 29 August 2010 - 01:34 PM

QUOTE (RAT @ Aug 29 2010, 11:01 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Yes....just follow the directions and use the included connectors.

Yeah, the included "Posi-Tap" connectors are awesome and made life much easier. I had to cut off the black sticky-tape wire binding for a couple of inches, as it came all the way down to the headlight connector on my bike. I used a pair of small bandage scissors to avoid nipping the wires. I used the left headlight and double-taped the unit itself to the rear of the glovebox, which is nice and flat, with lots of room. The hardest part was figuring out how the D panel wanted to come off.

There was one moment of panic when it didn't work at first, then I remembered this was an extra unit and I had to train the receiver to accept it.

It's so much nicer than having a huge remote hanging on my belt, or bungeed somewhere, or roaming around in a jacket pocket or tankbag.

#6 RAT

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Posted 29 August 2010 - 03:36 PM

great to hear you got it working....sorry, I forgot to mention the tape...I remember that now too. I know some may think this is ridiculous but I like it a lot. No more fumbling for the remote from my tank bag or getting off the bike just to key in the outside remote.

#7 RadioHowie

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Posted 29 August 2010 - 05:39 PM

Okay, Crash Cash, things are a little more clear now.

I was totally unaware of some doohickey called Flash2Pass that was a remote garage door opener. I thought you were installing some damn device on your Feej that you would use to notify someone in front of you that you were intending to pass them on the road. Flash2Pass....seemed like a pretty simple solution was to flip the hi/lo switch to indicate your intentions. Thought it was a bit odd that someone would install such a device on their motorcycle when the hi/lo switch was already there.

Who knew?

BTW, I simply leave my GDO in the glovebox.
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#8 canyonman

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Posted 29 August 2010 - 06:48 PM

QUOTE (RadioHowie @ Aug 29 2010, 08:39 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
BTW, I simply leave my GDO in the glovebox.

I rely on mine to get off the couch and open the door when she hears me come up the drive. must need a little tweekin cause doesn't seem quit as reliable as it used to be rolleyes.gif

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#9 RadioHowie

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Posted 29 August 2010 - 06:51 PM

QUOTE (canyonman @ Aug 29 2010, 10:48 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
QUOTE (RadioHowie @ Aug 29 2010, 08:39 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
BTW, I simply leave my GDO in the glovebox.

I rely on mine to get off the couch and open the door when she hears me come up the drive. must need a little tweekin cause doesn't seem quit as reliable as it used to be rolleyes.gif



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The whole chicken strips thing is BS. - HaulinAshe 7/29/2010
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#10 Crash Cash

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Posted 29 August 2010 - 10:17 PM

QUOTE (RadioHowie @ Aug 29 2010, 09:39 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Okay, Crash Cash, things are a little more clear now.
[...]
BTW, I simply leave my GDO in the glovebox.

Yeah, but then you have to fumble around in the glovebox for it. Plus then when I forget it in there, and want to ride the SV, I have to drag out the key for the FJR so I can unlock the glovebox and get it out, and then put the FJR key back. It seemed I was always leaving it somewhere and having to search for it because it didn't have a nice way to mount it anywhere. I tried putting a magnet on the back, but the glues/epoxies kept coming off. Putting it on the belt and having it go CLACK CLACK CHING JANGLE every time I took a step was a non-starter too. I bolted it to the side of the helmet, but that caused wind noise, and then it didn't fit in the sidebags any more, plus it probably looked pretty stupid. I tried taking it apart to put it in the Bluetooth module area, but the circuit board was just the tiniest bit too large. etc. etc. etc. blah blah blah.

Just too many damn little hassles, and so I figured I'd break down and spend some dough on a better solution.

Sorry about that... I figured it was one of those things people knew about, and I knew about it from the 10% off code on the AMA membership benefits site. I put off buying it because the pic of the module on the website made it look huge and hard to install, but it's not.

Afterwards, as a shakedown, I took a late-night ride through UCF. I hadn't been through there in 5 or 6 years and it's huge now. I only recognized 2 buildings from back when I was a student in '88. There's a freaking shopping mall on campus now, and lots of the roads I drove every day on my first bike and parking lots I used to use are gone. It was also a shock to see UCF's the 3rd largest university in the NATION now... I now officially feel like a very very old man. Where the hell is my whiskey?

#11 Jim Morrison

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Posted 30 August 2010 - 03:46 AM

I just Velcro'd My GDO to the back side of the glove box, but have a F2P on the other bike so I may want to try doing an install
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#12 SacramentoMike

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Posted 30 August 2010 - 12:40 PM


I've just gotta put THIS here. It's a Video of my light setup. I have the Clearwater LED lights wired into the horn circuit. I wanted to REALLY get somebody's attention if I had to blast the horn at them in traffic, but a side benefit is the ability to flash the full brightness of the LEDs with a little "beep" of the horn if I felt I needed to flash to pass.

In the video (titled "Clearwater Kris," since YouTube only gives you a few spaces for a title, turns out--the light style is called "Krista"), I first flash the high beams a couple times, then hit the horn. The LEDs go to full bright with the high beams, whatever level of brightness they're set at, but they also go to full bright when the horn is sounded, but in that case the headlights stay on low beam. It's not a standard installation, but here's proof it's do-able. (At the end, you'll see the light pattern they throw at various levels.)



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#13 ride4fun

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Posted 25 December 2010 - 01:10 PM

Installed my F2P Christmas present today. Man, those headlight connectors are hard to wire into. If the cable was just longer it would be a piece of cake.

Works great, and I got the 2nd transmitter so I can wire it up to my truck. Just taps into the two wires for the high beams and done! Great product!

#14 crankshaft

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Posted 27 December 2010 - 05:09 AM

I've missed this thread. I've had my Flash2Pass on the FJR for about two years now. I also have one on my VTX. They work great!!!

#15 nervous

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Posted 03 April 2012 - 01:05 PM

Can anyone confirm which headlight wire (which lead is the high-beam) I should be looking for to connect the F2P? I think I read some where that it was yellow?

Also, is there a preferred side, right or left?

Had one in my Bandit and have one in my wifes Subaru and love them. Just bought a transmitter and as soon as I get a few of these details sorted in it goes.

#16 TomInCA

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Posted 03 April 2012 - 01:20 PM

From the title I thought this was about installing the European style F2P on the back of the left grip. These things are priced pretty reasonably. $67 at Amazon.

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#17 RiderX

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Posted 05 April 2012 - 05:51 AM

From the title I thought this was about installing the European style F2P on the back of the left grip. These things are priced pretty reasonably. $67 at Amazon.


Just ordered one. I hate having the transmitter eating up space in the little box.
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#18 nervous

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Posted 05 April 2012 - 06:31 AM


From the title I thought this was about installing the European style F2P on the back of the left grip. These things are priced pretty reasonably. $67 at Amazon.


Just ordered one. I hate having the transmitter eating up space in the little box.


They are teriffic. et me know when you sort out which headlight wire to tap into. I'll do the same if I get there first...

#19 E.T.

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Posted 05 April 2012 - 11:15 AM

I just looked at my 2011 F2P connection and it's connected to a yellow and a black wire. So yellow would be hot with the high beam on with the black as ground.

Weird, I had the F2P on the left headlight on our 10 but it was easier to put it on the right headlight on the 11. Didn't make sense to me.

YMMV
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#20 nervous

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Posted 05 April 2012 - 12:29 PM

I just looked at my 2011 F2P connection and it's connected to a yellow and a black wire. So yellow would be hot with the high beam on with the black as ground.

Weird, I had the F2P on the left headlight on our 10 but it was easier to put it on the right headlight on the 11. Didn't make sense to me.

YMMV


Thanks for confirming that the yellow is the correct lead. But, with my 2009 you have me thinking... I will guess that 09 is like 10 and that the left side will be the one.

Stupid, stupid question though: when you say left you are referencing that from the operators position/seat and NOT from the front facing the front of the vehicle, correct?