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#21 YummYam

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Posted 29 March 2012 - 05:29 PM


Does anyone have detailed steps for taking some tension out of the return spring?


These links should give you what you need:

http://www.fjrforum....ndpost&p=220804

http://www.fjrforum....showtopic=18322

Thanks for the links, what a great how to. Both topics covered so have printed it all. Have ordered the Motion Pro gauge so need to be patient until it arrives.

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#22 YummYam

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Posted 02 April 2012 - 05:01 PM

Well there's interesting. I seem to have virtually eliminated the numbness/pins and needles in my right hand by fitting a Cramp Buster thingy.
Initially I was disappointed with it as it tended to slip and rotate around the grip slightly but a length of electrical rubber tape stuck on the inside cured that.

I experimented with the best position along the grip and for me about an inch in from the end of the grip works best. I find at the moment that I need to tell myself not to grip so tightly as before and just let the weight of my hand and arm do the work.

Obviously the vibration is still there but I'm not gripping so tightly and things may improve further when I unwind the return spring and do a TBS. My Grip Buddies have arrived but I'll do the aformentioned before fitting them and in any case I'm unsure if the Cramp Buster will fit on them.

I don't make long trips regularly so that could make a difference but it works for me.

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#23 03HiYoSilver

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Posted 02 April 2012 - 05:27 PM

...Obviously the vibration is still there but I'm not gripping so tightly and things may improve further when I unwind the return spring and do a TBS. ...


Should have done the Free and most Effective things first, they DO make a difference.

#24 KIEEFER

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Posted 02 April 2012 - 05:28 PM

Interesting, you've done a lot of steps and still feel the issues.... And it sounds like others have that issue fairly frequently as well. Wonder if this is a design issue on the Feej?....

On my Wrangler they have a decent number of rubber bushings for vibration isolation. Maybe they make something like that for the handlebars or steering column? To at least isolate that area from vibes? I can deal with numb hindquarters, but I'd like to feel my hands on long cruises.... :)


I think there could be a market for this. 1/4 inch rubber or neoprene shim under the bars or risers would make a difference IMO.

If I had the tools to do a professional job I'd be selling them now. BTW, a Russell will fix that numb-butt.

#25 jmdaniel

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Posted 02 April 2012 - 07:12 PM


...Obviously the vibration is still there but I'm not gripping so tightly and things may improve further when I unwind the return spring and do a TBS. ...


Should have done the Free and most Effective things first, they DO make a difference.


A TBS is free? I don't know what kind of equipment you used, but mine wasn't free...
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#26 LAF

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Posted 03 April 2012 - 03:44 AM



...Obviously the vibration is still there but I'm not gripping so tightly and things may improve further when I unwind the return spring and do a TBS. ...


Should have done the Free and most Effective things first, they DO make a difference.


A TBS is free? I don't know what kind of equipment you used, but mine wasn't free...

Well there is enough of us with Morgans that it could be free by just calling out for help in your area.

#27 jmdaniel

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Posted 03 April 2012 - 03:58 AM

Well there is enough of us with Morgans that it could be free by just calling out for help in your area.


That's still not free, until Morgan is giving them away. Let me know when that happens, and I'll pick up a spare.
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#28 YummYam

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Posted 05 April 2012 - 05:59 PM


...Obviously the vibration is still there but I'm not gripping so tightly and things may improve further when I unwind the return spring and do a TBS. ...


Should have done the Free and most Effective things first, they DO make a difference.


Well yes, good point. However as a somewhat impulsive mechanical engineer I kinda like owning my own tooling and investigating stuff myself. The TBS gauge has arrived and will be put to use soon so anyone in the vicinity of Valrico will be welcome to borrow it.

Incidentally, re the TBS, I am more interested in curing hesitancy of rev pickup just off tickover when pulling away and transitioning from closed to cracked open throttle when moving slowly.

Does anyone have experience of this?

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#29 03HiYoSilver

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Posted 05 April 2012 - 06:15 PM

...Incidentally, re the TBS, I am more interested in curing hesitancy of rev pickup just off tickover when pulling away and transitioning from closed to cracked open throttle when moving slowly.

Does anyone have experience of this? NO


Well do the TBS first & don't forget the Restrictors with your New Tool.

When I do my TBS, I use about 4K RPM to Balance, seems I am more there in this range than 1000 RPM!

Also, after your done, set the Idle (Warmed Up) to about 1100-1200 RPM... this and the TBS may be the "hesitancy" you are talking about.


Looking forward to your results...

#30 NC Ryder

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Posted 05 April 2012 - 06:19 PM

When I do my TBS, I use about 4K RPM to Balance...


When you say this, am I correct that you mean you run the motor at 4k RPM while using your tuning tool? Just want to make sure I understand as I should be starting into this next week. Thanks

#31 Bustanut joker

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Posted 05 April 2012 - 06:21 PM

Sell it to somebody who is clueless about the faults of this platform..I still don't get why peeps still want one of 'em.
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#32 03HiYoSilver

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Posted 05 April 2012 - 06:37 PM



When I do my TBS, I use about 4K RPM to Balance...


When you say this, am I correct that you mean you run the motor at 4k RPM while using your tuning tool? ...


Yes


#33 RadioHowie

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Posted 05 April 2012 - 07:39 PM

Incidentally, re the TBS, I am more interested in curing hesitancy of rev pickup just off tickover when pulling away and transitioning from closed to cracked open throttle when moving slowly.


A throttle body sync isn't going to fix your hesitancy problem. Sorry.

Where IS your "tickover" point? If it's the "as-delivered" 750-800rpm, bumping that up to 1100rpm will deliver the panacea you're looking for. A throttle-spring unwind will also help that transition, because it will be smoothed out greatly by you not having to "fight" that bitch of a spring. :)
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#34 RadioHowie

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Posted 05 April 2012 - 07:44 PM

When I do my TBS, I use about 4K RPM to Balance, seems I am more there in this range than 1000 RPM!


03HYS, are you doing the "Unauthorized TBS" at 4000rpm, or are you saying your doing the regular, run-of-the-mill, adjust-the-bleed-screw TBS with the motor spinning at 4k?

I can't imagine that would be effective, since the bleed screw ports are effectively useless once the throttle plates are open.
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#35 03HiYoSilver

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Posted 05 April 2012 - 07:48 PM



When I do my TBS, I use about 4K RPM to Balance, seems I am more there in this range than 1000 RPM!


03HYS, are you doing the "Unauthorized TBS" at 4000rpm, or are you saying your doing the regular, run-of-the-mill, adjust-the-bleed-screw TBS with the motor spinning at 4k?

...


Yes, I did what you mentioned about 3 years ago and then Check it periodically in the Normal method at 4K RPM and hardly make any changes. Been very stable and smooth.

#36 silver spirit

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Posted 05 April 2012 - 08:04 PM

Regarding the linked FJRTech TBS article:

I found access to the throttle body nozzles was made easier by removing the gas tank and placing it on a workmate on the left beside the bike. I detached the electrical connectors in order to feed them through the heat shield material, then reconnected 'em so the fuel pump would operate.

Despite using a bit of safety wire as described in the FJRTech instructional, I still managed to lose one of the wire retaining clips. I fashioned a replacement using the curly portion of a wire safety pin.

--

Oh, and my fingers went numb during my ride today, mainly because the air temperature dropped down to 6C :cold:

#37 NC Ryder

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Posted 05 April 2012 - 08:48 PM

03HYS, are you doing the "Unauthorized TBS" at 4000rpm, or are you saying your doing the regular, run-of-the-mill, adjust-the-bleed-screw TBS with the motor spinning at 4k?


Sorry, what's the difference between the two and which is being recommended? I thought I had read something in the Bin O Facts regarding an alternate TBS 2 cylinders at a time, is that related to what you're saying? :unsure:

Edited by NC Ryder, 05 April 2012 - 08:49 PM.


#38 silver spirit

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Posted 05 April 2012 - 09:17 PM


03HYS, are you doing the "Unauthorized TBS" at 4000rpm, or are you saying your doing the regular, run-of-the-mill, adjust-the-bleed-screw TBS with the motor spinning at 4k?


Sorry, what's the difference between the two and which is being recommended? I thought I had read something in the Bin O Facts regarding an alternate TBS 2 cylinders at a time, is that related to what you're saying? :unsure:

I, and I think many others, have experienced satisfactory results from the common, or garden variety TBS, such that the somewhat more difficult 'Unauthorized TBS' isn't considered necessary.

My 2011 is smooth, and pretty much buzz-free from idle to redline

I suggest trying the simple one first. If it doesn't seem to do the trick, you may choose to tackle the U-TBS, as described here

:rolleyes:

#39 03HiYoSilver

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Posted 05 April 2012 - 09:19 PM



03HYS, are you doing the "Unauthorized TBS" at 4000rpm, or are you saying your doing the regular, run-of-the-mill, adjust-the-bleed-screw TBS with the motor spinning at 4k?


Sorry, what's the difference between the two and which is being recommended? I thought I had read something in the Bin O Facts regarding an alternate TBS 2 cylinders at a time, is that related to what you're saying? :unsure:


Here's the link to the Process:

http://www.fjrforum....ndpost&p=128202



To put it simply, this process you Start with the Sync of the four Throttle Body Plates, and then Fine tune with the AirScrews.

Takes about a couple of hours and have not really needed to make any adjustments for years.

#40 YummYam

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Posted 07 April 2012 - 03:53 AM



Incidentally, re the TBS, I am more interested in curing hesitancy of rev pickup just off tickover when pulling away and transitioning from closed to cracked open throttle when moving slowly.


A throttle body sync isn't going to fix your hesitancy problem. Sorry.

Where IS your "tickover" point? If it's the "as-delivered" 750-800rpm, bumping that up to 1100rpm will deliver the panacea you're looking for. A throttle-spring unwind will also help that transition, because it will be smoothed out greatly by you not having to "fight" that bitch of a spring. :)

I've read elsewhere in the forum reports of cleaner uptake on the throttle after doing a TBS, official and unofficial versions, as well as mixed results re vibration reduction so I'll keep an open mind until I've tried it meself.

Also upped idle revs from 900 to 1100 last week as suggested elsewhere but as yet haven't felt much of an improvement.

As you say, spring unwind should help and also want to do the cable ramp mod. and fit the Grip Buddies.

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