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Stripped engine right side engine / slider?


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#21 SQUEAL

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Posted 26 March 2012 - 03:23 PM

I would say that you are going to have to remove it and repair it one way or another. You might as well bite the bullet and use a breaker bar and get it out. You will likely peel the threads out, but the time sert WILL take care of it. I have good experience with difficult FJR repairs and time-serts. The kit you need is kinda expensive, but you may well need it for the other side too. Sorry for the bummer deal. Trust me when I tell you that it could be MUCH MUCH worse!! Like you could have peeled the threads on three of the four spark plugs and broke one off in the head...on your new bike.
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#22 43Duc

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Posted 26 March 2012 - 04:59 PM

I bit the bullet and took it to a mechanic. The same mechanic that I took the engine from my ZX-7 to to put a time-cert in the head after it blew a plug (and threads) under heavy acceleration. I'm sure they're going to have to use a breaker bar and then make repairs to the threads. I won't know until late tomorrow what the prognosis is.
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#23 yamafitter

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Posted 26 March 2012 - 05:26 PM

I bit the bullet and took it to a mechanic. The same mechanic that I took the engine from my ZX-7 to to put a time-cert in the head after it blew a plug (and threads) under heavy acceleration. I'm sure they're going to have to use a breaker bar and then make repairs to the threads. I won't know until late tomorrow what the prognosis is.

If the shop starts talking about taking the motor out of the frame to fix this run, don't walk, to the shop and get the bike back from them. This can be fixed 'in-situ' even if the bolt has to be drilled out (worst case).
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#24 rfulcher

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Posted 26 March 2012 - 05:57 PM

Misery loves company. I now know I am not the only one with this issue. From the picture it looks like my sliders are the same brand

When my 07 was new I installed sliders (C&G Moto? from Twisted Throttle) and the right bolt slightly? stripped. I was lucky that I could get the bolt out and back in with the slider. It looked more like the threads were galled instead of stripped. However it did torque to spec and I used blue Loctite. I decided that I will not remove that slider unless I have to. Well 50,000 miles later and the slider and bolt have not been touched. The slider will just barely slip thru the opening in the fairing, a little silicone lube helps. I have had the fairing off twice for valve adjustments. As long as it stays tight I am not going to touch it. If I have to I will slightly reshape the plastic of the slider rather than remove it. If I have to install an insert later I will, hope I never need to.

Good Luck
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#25 43Duc

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Posted 26 March 2012 - 06:25 PM

Misery loves company. I now know I am not the only one with this issue. From the picture it looks like my sliders are the same brand

When my 07 was new I installed sliders (C&G Moto? from Twisted Throttle) and the right bolt slightly? stripped. I was lucky that I could get the bolt out and back in with the slider. It looked more like the threads were galled instead of stripped. However it did torque to spec and I used blue Loctite. I decided that I will not remove that slider unless I have to. Well 50,000 miles later and the slider and bolt have not been touched. The slider will just barely slip thru the opening in the fairing, a little silicone lube helps. I have had the fairing off twice for valve adjustments. As long as it stays tight I am not going to touch it. If I have to I will slightly reshape the plastic of the slider rather than remove it. If I have to install an insert later I will, hope I never need to.

Good Luck


Don't ever mess with it! In retrospect I wish I would have just ground a flat side into the slider to allow it to slip past the fairing. You can bet that's what I'll do if the slider survives the fix.
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#26 RadioHowie

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Posted 27 March 2012 - 05:15 AM

If the shop starts talking about taking the motor out of the frame to fix this run, don't walk, to the shop and get the bike back from them. This can be fixed 'in-situ' even if the bolt has to be drilled out (worst case).


I wonder if a stripped motor mount on the FJR motor CAN be repaired 'in-situ' as you say. To drill out the mounting lug on the motor, thread the lug for the timesert and get it screwed in there, I think you'd have to do all the drilling, threading and inserting through the mounting hole in the frame. NOT a good idea to start messing around with that.

At the very least, the motor needs to be dropped a couple of inches to get to the mounting lug on the motor block, which is behind the frame.
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#27 yamafitter

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Posted 27 March 2012 - 06:40 AM

I wonder if a stripped motor mount on the FJR motor CAN be repaired 'in-situ' as you say. To drill out the mounting lug on the motor, thread the lug for the timesert and get it screwed in there, I think you'd have to do all the drilling, threading and inserting through the mounting hole in the frame. NOT a good idea to start messing around with that.

At the very least, the motor needs to be dropped a couple of inches to get to the mounting lug on the motor block, which is behind the frame.

We are talking about the side that has the removable collar that is held in the frame with a pinch bolt and can be replaced for little cost. In the worst case (and I hope it doesn't come to this) I would be tempted to drill off the head of the bolt which would get the slider and fairing off. I would then back off the pinch bolt and hopefully remove the collar which would now allow room to drill and insert. It won't be easy but then I never said it would be and definitely not a job for someone who is not confident in their mechanical skills.
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#28 RadioHowie

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Posted 27 March 2012 - 06:48 AM

We are talking about the side that has the removable collar that is held in the frame with a pinch bolt and can be replaced for little cost. In the worst case (and I hope it doesn't come to this) I would be tempted to drill off the head of the bolt which would get the slider and fairing off. I would then back off the pinch bolt and hopefully remove the collar which would now allow room to drill and insert. It won't be easy but then I never said it would be and definitely not a job for someone who is not confident in their mechanical skills.


Now that you mention it, on the right side, with the removable collar, there probably will be enough room to get the timesert through the frame into the drilled and tape motor mount lug. On the left side of the motor...not so much.
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#29 yamafitter

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Posted 27 March 2012 - 07:02 AM

Now that you mention it, on the right side, with the removable collar, there probably will be enough room to get the timesert through the frame into the drilled and tape motor mount lug. On the left side of the motor...not so much.

Agreed. Left side of motor would not be pretty.
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#30 43Duc

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Posted 27 March 2012 - 12:19 PM

Mechanic just called and said they were able to get the bolt out but it brought a few threads with it. They said they could re-tap it and it should be okay, or they could time-cert it. I told them to do the cert. Hopefully will be done today.
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#31 RadioHowie

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Posted 27 March 2012 - 12:30 PM

:thumbsupsmileyanim: :thumbsupsmileyanim: :thumbsupsmileyanim: :thumbsupsmileyanim: :thumbsupsmileyanim:
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#32 Burnspot

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Posted 27 March 2012 - 12:54 PM

Mechanic just called and said they were able to get the bolt out but it brought a few threads with it. They said they could re-tap it and it should be okay, or they could time-cert it. I told them to do the cert. Hopefully will be done today.


Nice! :thumbsupsmiley:

#33 43Duc

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Posted 28 March 2012 - 02:32 PM

All's well that ends well. Got my bike back today. $102 total parts and labor. Time-cert is in and properly torqued. They don't recommend using loc-tite on the time cert. They said it shouldn't need re-torqueing but it wouldn't hurt to check it periodically. So I'm glad to be back on the road. I have to give props to Champion Motorsports in Costa Mesa for coming through for me again. They've bailed me out a few times when I've run into problems w/ my WR426 and my Ninja 750. Always quick turnaround.
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#34 yamafitter

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Posted 28 March 2012 - 02:56 PM

Glad to see this had a happy ending.
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#35 43Duc

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Posted 28 March 2012 - 03:32 PM

Glad to see this had a happy ending.


Me too! And for my next fiasco.... I think I'm going to remove the Power Commander V that came w/ my bike. I want to see how it runs without it... and to see if my mileage improves.
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#36 Burnspot

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Posted 28 March 2012 - 04:19 PM

I'm glad they got it sorted out and it wasn't super expensive! Go ride the thing! ;)

#37 43Duc

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Posted 28 March 2012 - 04:33 PM

I'm glad they got it sorted out and it wasn't super expensive! Go ride the thing! ;)


I'd love to, but I've got a weekend dirt-biking trip w/ the boy this weekend. We're heading out to the desert to throw some roost and shoot some guns. No estrogen trip! Woohoo!

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#38 jryan

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Posted 07 May 2012 - 05:35 PM

I just wanted to add my 2 cents. If you use any anti sieze compound on those bolts do NOT USE a torque wrench and tifghten to factory specs. You will strip the threads out. Tighten by feel only as the anti sieze will not allow you to use a torque wrench! Dont ask me how I know.:blink:
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#39 maddad

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Posted 08 May 2012 - 07:58 PM

I had to do both sides on my bike. Spent many hours thinking, pondering and worrying. Spent about 5 minutes, drilling, tapping and dropping in a helicoil. On the Gen 1, both sides can easily be done without removing anything.

Originally put anti-seize on after doing this job. Had to re-torque several times. Do not require anti-seize on this. Had to pull off and clean. Since the helicoil is steel and the bolt is steel, they don't corrode where they meet.

Also, maybe stupid point, but when you break the tip off the end of the helicoil, it doesn't actually go into the engine, it just drops down in front of it.

Helicoil seems to be fine with the torque since it should only go to 35 ftlb.

Helicoil kit did cost $90. But have done both sides, 2 other bikes and still have a few inserts left. Have had to do some brake rotor bolts that got striped as well.

#40 ABQFJR

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Posted 05 January 2014 - 07:51 PM

I had to do both sides on my bike. Spent many hours thinking, pondering and worrying. Spent about 5 minutes, drilling, tapping and dropping in a helicoil. On the Gen 1, both sides can easily be done without removing anything.

Originally put anti-seize on after doing this job. Had to re-torque several times. Do not require anti-seize on this. Had to pull off and clean. Since the helicoil is steel and the bolt is steel, they don't corrode where they meet.

Also, maybe stupid point, but when you break the tip off the end of the helicoil, it doesn't actually go into the engine, it just drops down in front of it.

Helicoil seems to be fine with the torque since it should only go to 35 ftlb.

Helicoil kit did cost $90. But have done both sides, 2 other bikes and still have a few inserts left. Have had to do some brake rotor bolts that got striped as well.

 

Maddad,

 

I know this thread is a little old, but hopefully you'll read this and be able to answer/clarify:

 

You were able to install a helicoil on the LEFT side of the engine without having to drop the engine at all? There was no issue drilling/tapping/installing THROUGH the frame hole?

 

I'm losing thread on both sides, and would like to fix it. The right side would be easy, but I've been uncertain about the left due to the lack of space afforded by the hole in the frame.

 

Although my bike is a Gen 2, I believe this section of the bike wasn't changed from Gen 1 to 2 (or to 3, for that matter).