This is my improvised fix for getting the back end off the ground. With this litte set up and a car jack I was able to get this done myself.

And it is off the center stand so I could move that around freely.
Posted 31 March 2012 - 05:02 AM

Posted 31 March 2012 - 08:17 AM
No front stand required or jacking under the engine.
Put bike on center stand.
Place floor jack under back rear of the right swingarm.
Loosen all dogbone nuts and bolts.
Raise swingarm slightly until the upper dogbone bolt can be easily removed.
Remove lower shock mount nut and bolt.
Rotate lower shock mount until lower dogbone bolt can be removed.
Install new dogbones and lower mount nut/bolt.
Install lower shock mount bolt/nut.
Raise swingarm using floorjack until the upper dogbone mount bolt/nut can be installed.
Lower floorjack.
This job took me 15 minutes and is easy weasy, except I raised the rear but same job.
Posted 31 March 2012 - 04:32 PM
Cee Bailey Windscreen, autoretract deactivated, PCV, Recall ECU, Recall grounds, Recall key ignition, Frame sliders. Highway pegs in frame sliders, Penske 8983, Race Tech Gold valves, Sonic springs, Sargeant seat, Rear trunk, Trooper Exhaust mod, Shorter Jester racing bog bones, Progrip 714 grips, Throttle Rocker, Vario adjustable foot pegs, Ram mount for GPS
Posted 31 March 2012 - 04:47 PM
I just used the center stand and a floor jack under the swingarm. I used ULEWZ method, very easy.
No front stand required or jacking under the engine.
Put bike on center stand.
Place floor jack under back rear of the right swingarm.
Loosen all dogbone nuts and bolts.
Raise swingarm slightly until the upper dogbone bolt can be easily removed.
Remove lower shock mount nut and bolt.
Rotate lower shock mount until lower dogbone bolt can be removed.
Install new dogbones and lower mount nut/bolt.
Install lower shock mount bolt/nut.
Raise swingarm using floorjack until the upper dogbone mount bolt/nut can be installed.
Lower floorjack.
This job took me 15 minutes and is easy weasy, except I raised the rear but same job.
Is it really crashing if you don't fall down?--
Posted 02 April 2012 - 05:51 AM
2 Simple bolts that are an absolute PITA to get off and on. Between the center stand and getting the holes to line up with the new ones…
This is my improvised fix for getting the back end off the ground. With this litte set up and a car jack I was able to get this done myself.
And it is off the center stand so I could move that around freely.
Posted 02 April 2012 - 06:31 AM
I don't think it was the actual subframe that was breaking but rather the OEM rear carrier bracket which is plastic. This is why most folks install something like the Givi SR357 carrier which replaces the plastic bracket.This looks to me like a really bad idea. There are multitudes of posts regarding cracked rear subframes due to overloading a topcase (20 - 30 lbs of weight). This picture looks like your lifting the rear of the bike by this subframe?



Posted 02 April 2012 - 08:19 AM
I don't think it was the actual subframe that was breaking but rather the OEM rear carrier bracket which is plastic. This is why most folks install something like the Givi SR357 carrier which replaces the plastic bracket.
This looks to me like a really bad idea. There are multitudes of posts regarding cracked rear subframes due to overloading a topcase (20 - 30 lbs of weight). This picture looks like your lifting the rear of the bike by this subframe?
Posted 02 April 2012 - 08:44 AM
I don't think it was the actual subframe that was breaking but rather the OEM rear carrier bracket which is plastic. This is why most folks install something like the Givi SR357 carrier which replaces the plastic bracket.
This looks to me like a really bad idea. There are multitudes of posts regarding cracked rear subframes due to overloading a topcase (20 - 30 lbs of weight). This picture looks like your lifting the rear of the bike by this subframe?
Bill, pretty sure that it was the actual sub-frame that broke on quite a few bikes.. not to say that there wasn't issues with carrier bracket. I remember seeing pics posted of the sub-frame problem.
Posted 02 April 2012 - 09:04 AM
Darksider #18Posted 02 April 2012 - 09:23 AM

Posted 02 April 2012 - 09:33 AM
As for the cracking subframes, refer to the below 1st gen frame picture. The rear sub-frames that were cracking are the rear most cast piece that supports the rear rack. The rear rack is supported primarily at the three blue arrows. As you can see this is way out on the end of the subframe. The cracks would develop at the red arrows.
The part of the subframe that the green arrows point to are square steel tubing and are pretty unlikely to crack. I have used this part of the subframe to hook my lift straps up to. I think that Tony's lumber lift is supporting under there too.
That said, I'm not sure why the dog-bones can't be removed and replaced with the center stand deployed.
Posted 02 April 2012 - 12:43 PM
Posted 02 April 2012 - 01:17 PM
That said, I'm not sure why the dog-bones can't be removed and replaced with the center stand deployed.


Los Robustos M/C member #18 Darksider #28
Posted 02 April 2012 - 01:26 PM
So...how many pounds do you think his subframe is carrying there Zilla? 10 lbs?So, if something fails because 10lbs hanging from it is being bounced around constantly for, say, 10k miles, I would bet that same part would be just fine if 10lbs was hung from it and it never moved.
Agreed. Dynamic loads with fatigue effects vs a static load.Two totally different kinds of loads.
Posted 02 April 2012 - 01:36 PM
So...how many pounds do you think his subframe is carrying there Zilla? 10 lbs?
So, if something fails because 10lbs hanging from it is being bounced around constantly for, say, 10k miles, I would bet that same part would be just fine if 10lbs was hung from it and it never moved.![]()
Posted 03 April 2012 - 01:26 PM
Posted 03 April 2012 - 05:15 PM
Actually it blocks the lower dog bone bolt (at least on mine which should be no different than yours). This is why you remove the lower shock bolt (next to the lower dog bone bolt that secures the lower part of the shock to the pivot assembly). It is easily accessible and will allow you to rotate the lower shock mount (dog bone attaches to this mount) to where you can just slide the once interfered bolt out. I guess I should make a video. This is a 15 minute job max using my method. No stands necessary.The center stand was blocking the upper bolt.
Cee Bailey Windscreen, autoretract deactivated, PCV, Recall ECU, Recall grounds, Recall key ignition, Frame sliders. Highway pegs in frame sliders, Penske 8983, Race Tech Gold valves, Sonic springs, Sargeant seat, Rear trunk, Trooper Exhaust mod, Shorter Jester racing bog bones, Progrip 714 grips, Throttle Rocker, Vario adjustable foot pegs, Ram mount for GPS
Posted 03 April 2012 - 07:34 PM
Posted 03 April 2012 - 08:47 PM
Corrected.
Now come over and be my personal Mechanic
Can’t you tell I am dangerous with a wench!


Posted 04 April 2012 - 06:16 AM
Can’t you tell I am dangerous with a wench!