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Shift pedal pivot bolt


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#1 Constant Mesh

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Posted 04 April 2012 - 04:30 AM

After greasing this pivot and reinstalling the bolt and washers I didn't know how snug it should be. Also the washer locations were a bit uncertain. I had it apart a few years ago and I'm not sure I got the washers right.

There are three washers. A larger diameter plate washer with a small hole obviously goes on the outside next to the footrest bracket. The thin wave washer most likely goes against the bolt head. The thin, smaller diameter plate washer goes where? I placed it between the larger washer and the pedal. After looking at the parts diagram it appears it should be placed next to the wave washer. Probably doesn't make any difference.

Should the bolt just be snug or would it be better to use a little blue threadlocker?

After I put everything back together I noticed in the 2006 Service Manual that they recommend that the two long side stand bracket bolts be installed with threadlocker. My 2004 SM doesn't show threadlocker for these bolts. Has anyone experienced loosening of these bolts?

#2 Fred W

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Posted 04 April 2012 - 05:06 AM

Whenever I have a question like this on order of parts assembly, I usually consult the parts fiche. You can see them online here.

And, based on that, I'd have to say that you got the order wrong. 29 is the wave washer, 30 is the large ID flat washer and 31 is the smaller ID flat plate washer.

Posted Image


According to the (correct 1st Gen) FSM, the torque for the shift pedal bolt (#28) is 22 ft-lbs. and does not require any locktite. The bolt is a shoulder bolt, so it tightens against itself. It doesn't fully compress the wave washer, which gives it the freedom it needs to pivot.

Also, the side stand bolts call for 42 ft-lbs and no thread locker

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#3 wfooshee

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Posted 04 April 2012 - 05:18 AM

The bolt bottoms out and will not clamp the shifter. You won't disable the shifter by getting the bolt tight enough.
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#4 Constant Mesh

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Posted 04 April 2012 - 05:36 AM

Thanks. I think you're right about the washer location. I didn't see a torque spec for the pivot bolt in the manual.

The specified torques are somewhat haphazard in the manual. For instance the two long bolts holding the side stand bracket to the frame are shown with wildly different torques in different sections of the manual.

In the section about the oil pan and pump the torque shown for those bolts is 118 lb-ft (163 Nm). In the shaft drive section the torque shown is 45 lb-ft (63 Nm). The 163 and 118 are obviously miscues. Someone goofed and changed 63 to 163.

#5 Fred W

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Posted 04 April 2012 - 05:52 AM

Thanks. I think you're right about the washer location. I didn't see a torque spec for the pivot bolt in the manual.

The specified torques are somewhat haphazard in the manual. For instance the two long bolts holding the side stand bracket to the frame are shown with wildly different torques in different sections of the manual.

In the section about the oil pan and pump the torque shown for those bolts is 118 lb-ft (163 Nm). In the shaft drive section the torque shown is 45 lb-ft (63 Nm). The 163 and 118 are obviously miscues. Someone goofed and changed 63 to 163.


I found torque spec for the shift pedal is in the tightening torques table in chapter 2. Which also confirms the 45 ft-lbs as being correct. Good catch on the 118 ft-lbs. If that were true it would have been the tightest fastener on the bike. ;-)

re: the washers. After I looked it up and sent you that reply, I was trying to remember if I had seen mine in the right sequence during the last lube. :blink:
Further followup to come.

I just checked, and my washers were in the correct sequence.

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#6 TheZsdad

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Posted 04 April 2012 - 09:04 AM

The bolt bottoms out and will not clamp the shifter. You won't disable the shifter by getting the bolt tight enough.


I found this were not the case on my bike. My shifter would drag and not return to it's normal position after some shifts.
I pulled everything apart cleaned, greased and torqued to proper specs only to still have the problem.
I took the assembly apart again and backed the bolt off and reassembled much better.
Like you I thought shoulder would bottom and prevent the bolt from causing a drag on the shifter.
So I thought there could be tolerance issue with the bolt or one of the washers. Another thing I noticed
was a metal sleeve pressed into part #25 which the bolt goes through did not appear to be pressed in
completely. An extra length here could prevent the the shoulder of the bolt from hitting bottom.
I honestly don't know if the sleeve is correct or not. I decided to flatten the wave washer amap
apply some blue loctite to the bolt and not torque to spec. It's been good for the last 10K miles.
This is not a recommendation, just what worked for me.

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#7 Fred W

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Posted 04 April 2012 - 12:16 PM

I think I'd have tried to either press (or knock) the inner bushing flush or else shave it down. But I suppose you'll notice if it starts to get loosey goosey pretty quickly.

When I just pulled mine apart today to look at it (I was doing some other stuff on the bike anyway) I looked real closely at that pivot. Mine is nice and easy moving, even with the shoulder bolt torqued to spec. The wave washer gives just enough resistance to dampen it from vibrating around on its own.

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#8 Constant Mesh

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Posted 04 April 2012 - 01:02 PM

Tightening the pivot bolt to a recommended torque may be problematic since you're likely to get some lubricant on the bolt threads. When I slathered a bit of grease on the bolt some inadvertently got onto the threads. The dry thread torque recommendation went out the window. Just snugged it up tight and forgot about it.

#9 TheZsdad

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Posted 04 April 2012 - 02:46 PM

I think I'd have tried to either press (or knock) the inner bushing flush or else shave it down. But I suppose you'll notice if it starts to get loosey goosey pretty quickly.

When I just pulled mine apart today to look at it (I was doing some other stuff on the bike anyway) I looked real closely at that pivot. Mine is nice and easy moving, even with the shoulder bolt torqued to spec. The wave washer gives just enough resistance to dampen it from vibrating around on its own.


Hey Fred, I was really unsure and still am whether the inner bushing (thanks for the name) is pressed in far enough or not.
I'll try to get a closeup pic and get your opinion if you don't mind.
Dave

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#10 smokinjryan

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Posted 05 April 2012 - 12:33 PM

I found this were not the case on my bike. My shifter would drag and not return to it's normal position after some shifts.
I pulled everything apart cleaned, greased and torqued to proper specs only to still have the problem.
I took the assembly apart again and backed the bolt off and reassembled much better.
Like you I thought shoulder would bottom and prevent the bolt from causing a drag on the shifter.
So I thought there could be tolerance issue with the bolt or one of the washers. Another thing I noticed
was a metal sleeve pressed into part #25 which the bolt goes through did not appear to be pressed in
completely. An extra length here could prevent the the shoulder of the bolt from hitting bottom.
I honestly don't know if the sleeve is correct or not. I decided to flatten the wave washer amap
apply some blue loctite to the bolt and not torque to spec. It's been good for the last 10K miles.
This is not a recommendation, just what worked for me.
[/quote]

Did the same exact thing...

Edited by smokinjryan, 05 April 2012 - 12:34 PM.


#11 Fred W

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Posted 05 April 2012 - 01:01 PM

There might be a problem with the way they are pressing in the inner bronze bushing on the 2nd gen shifters. If one of you guys can take good pictures, or make measurements, we should be able to figure it out.

This shifter mechanism is really not rocket science. ;)

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