I need some help with a loss of both high and low beams. I have been able to locate the dimmer relay and it test ok per maintance mannual. The main switch puts 12v to fuse and dimmer switch is ok. I am having trouble locating the main headlight relay so as to remove and test. Any suggestions on how to test for the delayed ground comming to the relay from the CPU? Has anyone had a problem with loss of headlight? I have taken three pictures and posted on PhotoBucket to help.
http://s460.photobuc...s/qq328/hp3489/
Just to note I have not tested the bulbs as the odd of loosing both headlights (hi/low) seem remote. It looks like the front cowling would also have to be removed, is this correct?
Any help would be much appreciated.
oldmantwo
Lost Headlights, help
Started by
oldmantwo
, Apr 05 2012 01:53 PM
41 replies to this topic
#1
oldmantwo
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Posted 05 April 2012 - 01:53 PM
#2
DJB
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Posted 05 April 2012 - 02:08 PM
Have you been rid in the rain and do you have heated hand grips installed?
#3
TomInCA
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Posted 05 April 2012 - 02:24 PM
The bulbs are accessible without removing the cowling, but if you need access to the relays that is another matter. You have checked the fuses and the lights don't come on after the bike is started? Also check the "signaling" fuse.
Its a good day to ride.
#4
wfooshee
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Posted 05 April 2012 - 02:36 PM
Odds are irrelevant. Check the easy stuff first!
Pull the bulbs and put a voltmeter on the sockets. No volts, then you go digging for trouble. Volts, then dead bulbs.
Headlight fuse is 25A, I think. You cannot check it visually, test it with an ohmmeter. Can't tell you how many folks have said "I can see it's not blown!" to find they have a blown fuse.
Pull the bulbs and put a voltmeter on the sockets. No volts, then you go digging for trouble. Volts, then dead bulbs.
Headlight fuse is 25A, I think. You cannot check it visually, test it with an ohmmeter. Can't tell you how many folks have said "I can see it's not blown!" to find they have a blown fuse.
Darksider #18Are you the reason I'm so far above average?
I'm always right, yet it continues to surprise people! How can that be?
#5
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Posted 05 April 2012 - 02:45 PM
Have you been rid in the rain and do you have heated hand grips installed?
I have not had in the rain in many months, do have heated grips.
#6
majicmaker
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Posted 05 April 2012 - 02:47 PM
Ok Walt! You're just confusing the Shit outta me now with all this using Common Sense Stuff. Quit it! It's making my head hurt.Odds are irrelevant. Check the easy stuff first!
Pull the bulbs and put a voltmeter on the sockets. No volts, then you go digging for trouble. Volts, then dead bulbs.
Headlight fuse is 25A, I think. You cannot check it visually, test it with an ohmmeter. Can't tell you how many folks have said "I can see it's not blown!" to find they have a blown fuse.
If you're not the lead dog. The view never changes and it always smells like crap!
#7
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Posted 05 April 2012 - 02:54 PM
If Gen IIs are like the Gen I, then the headlight relay is on the front subframe behind the instrument cluster. Which requires moving the whole front end. 
I can't remember for sure, but I think you might be able to test the headlight relay by going into diagnostic mode.
I can't remember for sure, but I think you might be able to test the headlight relay by going into diagnostic mode.
IBA #327........................ Darksider #52
FJR#1 - The 'Dirty Ol Whore' - 2004 non-abs - RIP @ 226,400 - Gone, but not forgotton.
FJR#2 - The 'Hula Girl' - 2004 ABS - 129k
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FJR#4 - The Oregon FJR - 2004 ABS - 65k
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FJR#1 - The 'Dirty Ol Whore' - 2004 non-abs - RIP @ 226,400 - Gone, but not forgotton.
FJR#2 - The 'Hula Girl' - 2004 ABS - 129k
FJR#3 - The 'Virgin' - 2004 ABS - 4344 miles, a garage queen - Brundog would be proud!
FJR#5 - The Bastard POS Gen II - 2009A - 6,000+
#8
oldmantwo
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Posted 05 April 2012 - 02:54 PM
The bulbs are accessible without removing the cowling, but if you need access to the relays that is another matter. You have checked the fuses and the lights don't come on after the bike is started? Also check the "signaling" fuse.
Do the lense cover pop out, haven't been able to figure it out. The fuse is geting 12v when you turn on the key and passing the 12V to the hi/low switch. Not sure what the "signaling fuse" is? Looking at turn signals, brake lights, emergency flasher, all work. The head light LED on the console also come on. I have not been able to identify the exact location of the main light (off/on) relay, again have several pictures on PhotoBucket of possible relays.
#9
oldmantwo
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Posted 05 April 2012 - 03:01 PM
Ok Walt! You're just confusing the Shit outta me now with all this using Common Sense Stuff. Quit it! It's making my head hurt.
Odds are irrelevant. Check the easy stuff first!
Pull the bulbs and put a voltmeter on the sockets. No volts, then you go digging for trouble. Volts, then dead bulbs.
Headlight fuse is 25A, I think. You cannot check it visually, test it with an ohmmeter. Can't tell you how many folks have said "I can see it's not blown!" to find they have a blown fuse.
Since I have much of the plastic off the bike and tank up I cannot start it now. It would have to be running to get the ground from the CPU to operate the main light (off/on). After I locate and test the relay and if OK I will put the bike in running condition to test the bulbs. I have check the fusing with a volt ohm meter and fusing is not the problem as best I can tell. The mannual show how to test the main and dimmer relay when removed from the bike.
#10
bramfrank
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Posted 05 April 2012 - 03:08 PM
If it isn;t a relay it COULD be a bad spider. One of the ones in the nacelle harness that Yamaha claims doesn't cause any problems HAS caused problems for several owners..
Plug the bike back together, put a voltmeter from battery negative to headlight negative - start the bike and if you see 12-14 volts between the two ground points file a report with the NHTSA and call Yamaha to complain.
Plug the bike back together, put a voltmeter from battery negative to headlight negative - start the bike and if you see 12-14 volts between the two ground points file a report with the NHTSA and call Yamaha to complain.
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#11
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Posted 05 April 2012 - 03:10 PM
You get at the bulbs from the rear. Disconnect the wiring connector. Remove the rubber boot. Unclip the wire holder. Remove bulb.
Left is a lot easier to get to than the right.
Left is a lot easier to get to than the right.
IBA #327........................ Darksider #52
FJR#1 - The 'Dirty Ol Whore' - 2004 non-abs - RIP @ 226,400 - Gone, but not forgotton.
FJR#2 - The 'Hula Girl' - 2004 ABS - 129k
FJR#3 - The 'Virgin' - 2004 ABS - 4344 miles, a garage queen - Brundog would be proud!
FJR#4 - The Oregon FJR - 2004 ABS - 65k
FJR#5 - The Bastard POS Gen II - 2009A - 6,000+
FJR#1 - The 'Dirty Ol Whore' - 2004 non-abs - RIP @ 226,400 - Gone, but not forgotton.
FJR#2 - The 'Hula Girl' - 2004 ABS - 129k
FJR#3 - The 'Virgin' - 2004 ABS - 4344 miles, a garage queen - Brundog would be proud!
FJR#5 - The Bastard POS Gen II - 2009A - 6,000+
#12
Constant Mesh
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Posted 05 April 2012 - 03:32 PM
Heated grips won't work unless the headlight relay is OK. The relay output must be present for the grip controller to function.
#13
TomInCA
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Posted 05 April 2012 - 04:15 PM
The bulbs are accessible without removing the cowling, but if you need access to the relays that is another matter. You have checked the fuses and the lights don't come on after the bike is started? Also check the "signaling" fuse.
Do the lense cover pop out, haven't been able to figure it out. The fuse is geting 12v when you turn on the key and passing the 12V to the hi/low switch. Not sure what the "signaling fuse" is? Looking at turn signals, brake lights, emergency flasher, all work. The head light LED on the console also come on. I have not been able to identify the exact location of the main light (off/on) relay, again have several pictures on PhotoBucket of possible relays.
Skooter beat me to it. The bulbs are access from behind the lights. Take off the black panels to make it easier. You should see the wires and connectors and round black dust boots. Those just pull straight off. The bulb is retained by a spring clip that is released by pushing in and up. It then opens like a door to release the bulb.
No manual?
Its a good day to ride.
#14
DJB
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Posted 05 April 2012 - 06:42 PM
I asked my question because I have found that if water gets into the system with the heated grips and you short the system through the clutch the lights will go out. Not sure why it just happened to me. But like everything else said start simple.
#15
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Posted 05 April 2012 - 07:15 PM
Here ya be. Headlight bulb removal
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IBR #30248
I love Deer. (Dead, preferably barbequed or jerkyfied)
#16
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Posted 05 April 2012 - 07:30 PM
Just to note I have not tested the bulbs as the odd of loosing both headlights (hi/low) seem remote.
That is the FIRST thing you should check...and believe it or not, the odds of losing both bulbs is NOT all that high. The bulbs are the easiest thing in the system to check...less than 2 minutes per bulb.
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The whole chicken strips thing is BS. - HaulinAshe 7/29/2010
Man, there's a lot of info here if I just shut my pie hole and read. -- madmatt 8/5/2010
#17
oldmantwo
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Posted 05 April 2012 - 07:34 PM
#18
oldmantwo
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Posted 05 April 2012 - 07:37 PM
Just to note I have not tested the bulbs as the odd of loosing both headlights (hi/low) seem remote.
That is the FIRST thing you should check...and believe it or not, the odds of losing both bulbs is NOT all that high. The bulbs are the easiest thing in the system to check...less than 2 minutes per bulb.
Thanks, with the bike opened up and the link provided I sure will check the bulbs.
#19
oldmantwo
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Posted 05 April 2012 - 07:39 PM
The bulbs are accessible without removing the cowling, but if you need access to the relays that is another matter. You have checked the fuses and the lights don't come on after the bike is started? Also check the "signaling" fuse.
Do the lense cover pop out, haven't been able to figure it out. The fuse is geting 12v when you turn on the key and passing the 12V to the hi/low switch. Not sure what the "signaling fuse" is? Looking at turn signals, brake lights, emergency flasher, all work. The head light LED on the console also come on. I have not been able to identify the exact location of the main light (off/on) relay, again have several pictures on PhotoBucket of possible relays.
Skooter beat me to it. The bulbs are access from behind the lights. Take off the black panels to make it easier. You should see the wires and connectors and round black dust boots. Those just pull straight off. The bulb is retained by a spring clip that is released by pushing in and up. It then opens like a door to release the bulb.
No manual?
I do have a manual, guess I missed it covering light bulb removal.
Thanks
#20
oldmantwo
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Posted 05 April 2012 - 07:46 PM
If it isn;t a relay it COULD be a bad spider. One of the ones in the nacelle harness that Yamaha claims doesn't cause any problems HAS caused problems for several owners..
Plug the bike back together, put a voltmeter from battery negative to headlight negative - start the bike and if you see 12-14 volts between the two ground points file a report with the NHTSA and call Yamaha to complain.
Thanks for the trouble shooting tip. I will post the cause when I get it fixed. I have found that all troubles are easy once they are fixed. I would like to say every one reply are helping me alot.
Here ya be. Headlight bulb removal
Thanks a bunch for link on bulb removal.
