Posted 17 April 2012 - 12:25 PM
Posted 17 April 2012 - 12:53 PM
Posted 17 April 2012 - 01:04 PM
No other issues. I started since I took it out of winter storage, about 3 weeks ago. I did a fresh oil change, rear housing oil changed, and new oem air filter. I did go from Rotella dino to Amsoil synthetic. The plugs were new about 7000-8000 kms ago, last year, when I did the sync. The bike has 55,000kms on it. BTW Gary, when you get done with those Staintune cans I'll take 'em!lol
Posted 17 April 2012 - 02:51 PM
Posted 17 April 2012 - 03:44 PM
Seems odd that you'd need another synch already. I'm cooked. Don't know what else to suggest. I'd better defer to the force. I'm over my head on your bloopers while blipping. Gas mileage poor: that's normal for cooler temps-expect 10% lower at least for ave temps below 45 or so. Concerning the Staintunes, you're gonna hate me when I post up the pics. SkooterG tells me they look pretty sweet. Did you say "when I'm done with them?" At this point I'm thinking that I won't BE done with them, but hey, ya never know. It doesn't hurt to
Posted 17 April 2012 - 05:25 PM
Posted 17 April 2012 - 06:51 PM
When my bike is at idle and warmed up, if I give it a quick blip of the throttle it seems rough, and is also seems rough when I am riding at about 2800rpm and give it some throttle. Would the throttle body synchronization out of whack?
A careful TBS wouldn't be a bad idea, but first try running some good injector cleaner through a couple or three tanks of fresh gas.
Then look for someone with a Morgan Carbtune. I bought one after becoming disappointed with a Motion Pro sync tool I'd purchased earlier.
My local shop uses a very expensive gauge set for TBS, but the Carbtune was accurate enough for me, and a decent price to boot!
My FJR: 'Spirit'
My Biker Blog
Suspension upgrade, PC-V and Staintune cans. Now I really gotta watch my speed...
Posted 20 April 2012 - 04:07 AM
Edited by steve'o', 20 April 2012 - 04:09 AM.
Posted 20 April 2012 - 07:09 AM
Hope you did the Main Connector:
+1. All that salty air is bound to lead to corrosion eventually.
I did a TBS on my '04. Though it wasn't out much, the difference was like 'night and day'
I read the info on the TBS carefully before attempting it. As everything is balanced to #3 I expected it to be 'fixed', but it is also adjustable. The only way I could balance #2 to #3 was to close it completely, so I opened #3 a quarter turn and the bike was a LOT happier.
Is there a correct initial setting for #3? Haven't seen this mentioned anywhere.
Posted 20 April 2012 - 07:36 AM
...Is there a correct initial setting for #3? Haven't seen this mentioned anywhere.
What I do, initially, is Turn the #3 Screw all the way down (lightly) and then Back it Off about 1 Turn.
Posted 20 April 2012 - 07:45 AM
Posted 20 April 2012 - 08:59 AM
Yeppers I did do the main connection and that's exactly where the greenish corrosion was, exactly where the arrow was pointed. Thanks guys, hopfully once the TBS is done it will be fine.
Good news Steve.
Now you need to head inland so you can get 'er into 5th gear
Posted 20 April 2012 - 10:06 AM
Guaranteed it'll be running smoother when he gives it back
... (and clean too!)
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Posted 21 April 2012 - 07:02 PM
Posted 03 May 2012 - 05:30 PM
Posted 03 May 2012 - 06:35 PM
said #4 cylinder is not working, probably due to the plug. We torn it apart, he checked the old plug and it wasn't firing properly at all. He happened to have a proper plug put it in started the bike up and she ran like a champ. ..
Congrats on your fix! Mine did the same thing... if your bike starts losing power after a thousand or so miles... #4 may be running rich until it starts fouling.
Hopefully, it was just some bad plugs.
Many more Happy Miles and Smiles...
Posted 05 May 2012 - 10:51 AM
Posted 05 May 2012 - 01:16 PM
If it does it again I would suspect a bad plug wire or where it connects to the cap.
You're lucky to have a good mechanic close by.
Posted 05 May 2012 - 02:08 PM
Is there any particular reason why #4 cylinder/plug does that?
Well in my Rare particular case, it ended up being the ThrottleBody Assy. This was done after the Replacing Plugs/Injectors/ECU and Coils and handles under the YES program. This part of the System, unfortunately, Does NOT throw Diag Codes... so it was all done with Trial & Error and with RivNuts installed at the Headers to measure the CO & HC levels.
For some reason the old Throttlebody for the #4 Cylinder would not Modulate the HC levels down to the 300 PPM level but was up in the 23-2400 PPM Levels and would eventually over time Foul Out the #4 Plug.