19 replies to this topic

[steve'o']

When my bike is at idle and warmed up, if I give it a quick blip of the throttle it seems rough, and is also seems rough when I am riding at about 2800rpm and give it some throttle. Would the throttle body synchronization out of whack?

[garyahouse]

Miles? Plugs changed when? Doing this for long? Any other issues? I had this same issue. My plugs had low miles and no other symptoms. I blipped the throttle at idle and I could hear and feel that one cylinder "kicked" before the others. I did a throttle body sych and bingo: fixed the problem. Oddly enough, my TB's weren't out that much, but a little synching makes a big diff... at least for me. Others have said that a TBS doesn't do much, but there seems to be some disagreement about that on the forum. Actually, it's soooo easy to do, and of course it's free, why not? I assume you don't have a set of gauges? Maybe somebody on the forum could step up to the plate here.

Gary
darksider #44

[steve'o']

Gary:

No other issues. I started since I took it out of winter storage, about 3 weeks ago. I did a fresh oil change, rear housing oil changed, and new oem air filter. I did go from Rotella dino to Amsoil synthetic. The plugs were new about 7000-8000 kms ago, last year, when I did the sync. The bike has 55,000kms on it. BTW Gary, when you get done with those Staintune cans I'll take 'em!lol

[steve'o']

Fuel consumption seems to be up as well.

[garyahouse]

Steve O,

Seems odd that you'd need another synch already. I'm cooked. Don't know what else to suggest. I'd better defer to the force. I'm over my head on your bloopers while blipping. Gas mileage poor: that's normal for cooler temps-expect 10% lower at least for ave temps below 45 or so. Concerning the Staintunes, you're gonna hate me when I post up the pics. SkooterG tells me they look pretty sweet. Did you say "when I'm done with them?" At this point I'm thinking that I won't BE done with them, but hey, ya never know. It doesn't hurt to drool dream, so go for it and stay tuned to this station for further insults.

Gary
darksider #44

[steve'o']

I'll pull the plugs this weekend just to see. I don't have a carb tuner, and the guy who did it for me, well his equipment seemed to be "lets say old", not anything like I've seen on the forum like the Motion Pro Sync carb tuner.

[silver spirit]

When my bike is at idle and warmed up, if I give it a quick blip of the throttle it seems rough, and is also seems rough when I am riding at about 2800rpm and give it some throttle. Would the throttle body synchronization out of whack?

A careful TBS wouldn't be a bad idea, but first try running some good injector cleaner through a couple or three tanks of fresh gas.

Then look for someone with a Morgan Carbtune. I bought one after becoming disappointed with a Motion Pro sync tool I'd purchased earlier.




My local shop uses a very expensive gauge set for TBS, but the Carbtune was accurate enough for me, and a decent price to boot!

[steve'o']

I topic jumped to the "rough idle" topic just to see if if there were any similarities. Ha, I did have some corrosion on a couple of my electrical connections, cleaned them up and added dialectric grease. The bike is not running perfect but I think it may be running better. Still going to have a throttle sync done just to be on the safe side. Maybe I just need to hold the clutch in and rev it up a bit more!

Edited by steve'o', 20 April 2012 - 04:09 AM.

[03HiYoSilver]

Hope you did the Main Connector:

http://www.fjrforum....ndpost&p=268059

[kamal]

Hope you did the Main Connector:

http://www.fjrforum....ndpost&p=268059

+1. All that salty air is bound to lead to corrosion eventually.

I did a TBS on my '04. Though it wasn't out much, the difference was like 'night and day'
I read the info on the TBS carefully before attempting it. As everything is balanced to #3 I expected it to be 'fixed', but it is also adjustable. The only way I could balance #2 to #3 was to close it completely, so I opened #3 a quarter turn and the bike was a LOT happier.
Is there a correct initial setting for #3? Haven't seen this mentioned anywhere.

Al

[03HiYoSilver]

...Is there a correct initial setting for #3? Haven't seen this mentioned anywhere.

Al

What I do, initially, is Turn the #3 Screw all the way down (lightly) and then Back it Off about 1 Turn.

[steve'o']

Yeppers I did do the main connection and that's exactly where the greenish corrosion was, exactly where the arrow was pointed. Thanks guys, hopfully once the TBS is done it will be fine.

[kamal]

Yeppers I did do the main connection and that's exactly where the greenish corrosion was, exactly where the arrow was pointed. Thanks guys, hopfully once the TBS is done it will be fine.

Good news Steve.
Now you need to head inland so you can get 'er into 5th gear

Al

[Bungie]

Loan your bike to CanadianFJR.

Guaranteed it'll be running smoother when he gives it back

... (and clean too!)

[steve'o']

I've been in contact with Scott, "CanadianFJR", and he has an excellent mechanic. I'm thinking of going to see his mechanic, but he is a 5 hr drive, but I did just find another mechanic. My cousin has known him for 30 years and he has his own independent shop, and specializes in suspension, but works on a variety of bikes and is familiar with the FJR. I plan to have him do a TBS and do my front suspension. I'll see what he can also do for me on an aftermarket rear shock too. It is taking some time but things seem to be coming together.

[steve'o']

Huh, who da thunk it! I managed to get my friend who has been a mechanic for over 25 years, worked on Yamaha's most of his time at it, and also raced against CanadianFJR. Unfortunately he no longer works locally. He happened to be home from the oil fields in western Canada and was willing to look at my bike for me. When I pulled in the driveway he said my bike sounded like it was running rough. He reached under and proceeded to gingerly touch each header pipe. He then gave the throttle a couple of cracks and said the tach was off. In a matter of seconds he looked at me and said #4 cylinder is not working, probably due to the plug. We torn it apart, he checked the old plug and it wasn't firing properly at all. He happened to have a proper plug put it in started the bike up and she ran like a champ. I asked him why plugs with only 7000kms on them would fail like that and he said sometimes after winter storage it does happen for whatever reason. He told me to change all 4 plugs just to be on the safe side and not to bother with a TBS. I left and I have to say the bike was like night and day. It pulls like the freight train it was last year, and no more Vespa-like power. Note to self, "KEEP AN EYE ON THE PLUGS!" no matter what milage they have on them. If the bike is sluggish that may be a factor as it was in my case. Best of all it cost me a case of suds. Yes he is a ggod friend. BTW Scott, (CanadianFJR), Bill and Mary Beth both say hi.

[03HiYoSilver]

...
said #4 cylinder is not working, probably due to the plug. We torn it apart, he checked the old plug and it wasn't firing properly at all. He happened to have a proper plug put it in started the bike up and she ran like a champ. ..

Congrats on your fix! Mine did the same thing... if your bike starts losing power after a thousand or so miles... #4 may be running rich until it starts fouling.

Hopefully, it was just some bad plugs.

Many more Happy Miles and Smiles...

[steve'o']

Is there any particular reason why #4 cylinder/plug does that?

[Canadian FJR]

"Is there any particular reason why #4 cylinder/plug does that?"

If it does it again I would suspect a bad plug wire or where it connects to the cap.

You're lucky to have a good mechanic close by.




Canadian FJR

[03HiYoSilver]

Is there any particular reason why #4 cylinder/plug does that?

Well in my Rare particular case, it ended up being the ThrottleBody Assy. This was done after the Replacing Plugs/Injectors/ECU and Coils and handles under the YES program. This part of the System, unfortunately, Does NOT throw Diag Codes... so it was all done with Trial & Error and with RivNuts installed at the Headers to measure the CO & HC levels.

For some reason the old Throttlebody for the #4 Cylinder would not Modulate the HC levels down to the 300 PPM level but was up in the 23-2400 PPM Levels and would eventually over time Foul Out the #4 Plug.