Brake Fluid 101

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garyahouse

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Why should brake fluid be changed?

Every fluid ought to be changed on occasion, usually because of particulate comtaminants and/or chemical breakdown. Brake fluid, however, has an additional issue. Unlike oil, it is hygroscopic (not hydro... as some have printed). It absorbs water. Believe it or not, rubber hoses are porous. They shed particulate matter into the brake fluid as they age, and allow moisture to penetrate as well.

Bikers are known for two things: changing (and sometimes obsessing over) their oil more often than necessary, and, like most auto owners, changing their brake fluid less often than necessary. The rule of thumb is 2 years, but consider the graph below:

Screenshot2012-05-06at22651PM.png


Between 1 year and 18 months, the contamination curve tapers off: the lion's share of water absorption is done within 18 months. This graph shows how the boiling temperature of brake fluid changes over time. Note: graph represents DOT 3 fluid. Numbers are higher for DOT 4, but the concept is the same.

Does it really matter that much?

It's important to change fluid often because boiling water in brake fluid produces gas, which can be compressed. Get enough of it in your brake fluid, and you brakes get spongy. Translation: too much water + too much heat = spongy brakes.

In addition, when water is mixed with brake fluid, it does not change color. Water is clear. That is why simply looking at the color of your brake fluid is not an accurate way to assess it's condition. Want proof? Check paragraph 5 in this tech article. CLICKY The real problem most of us face with brake fluid is NOT that the fluid is "burnt" for lack of a better word, but that it's GOT water in it. This water causes more than just a lower boiling point. It also causes corrosion. This corrosion causes damage to the inside of calipers and antilock brake system components. Any bike mechanic will tell you that they've taken what looks like sand out of calipers. Actually, it's metal that has eroded from vital brake system parts. This corrosion is the number one reason why brakes "stick" causing warped rotors, and this "sand" doesn't help things either.

Why does brake fluid get dark?

Screenshot2012-05-06at11302PM.png


Remember: "good" color does not = good brake fluid.

As brake fluid collects heat through the calipers when they get hot, it goes through multiple heating and cooling cycles, and begins to change color. These cycles cause expansion and contraction of system fluid volume, which has no effect on the color of the fluid, but does cause a huge problem with moisture in the fluid. It results in a tiny bit of air coming and going from the cap of the master cylinder. In addition, air molecules actually enter the system from a number of sources, including the rubber hoses and the seals. Don't believe air can pass through rubber? Ever see a deflated balloon? Anyway, with this air comes moisture. Again, no change in color, but a huge change non the less.

It also picks up particulate contamination from wearing metal surfaces and the oxidation of rubber hoses. One tech article pointed out that it was normal for fluid to change color as it leached the color from brake hoses, and that tests concluded that there was nothing wrong with the performance of the fluid, even though it had changed color.

How to prevent brake fluid problems

Make sure you use the right kind of brake fluid. There is more than one type out there. FJR's use DOT 4. Don't mix and match.

Be very cautious about using brake fluid from an a previously opened/stored container. Think of brake fluid like a chemical vacuum cleaner, always attempting to suck moisture from the atmosphere 24/7.

Change the fluid often, and keep accurate records.

When changing or bleeding brake fluid always replace master cylinder caps as soon as possible to prevent moisture from entering into the master cylinder.

What's the big deal: why should I care?

Your brake fluid WILL become contaminated with moisture, it's inevitable. There's no way to avoid it. Your best defense is to keep a regular schedule of replacing it. Failure to do so will result in internal corrosion and may result in spongy brakes or even brake failure.

When should brake fluid be changed?

Ideally, every year. It's sooooo easy to do. And you should change the hydraulic clutch fluid for the same reason.

Final thoughts

There are two things we risk by not changing this fluid often enough. Spongy breaks and corrosion. But since the fluid always gets changed when we discover sponges, the big issue, and the more expensive of the two, is the corrosion. Since this corrosion usually doesn't show up until a great deal of damage has been done, by the time we figure out that there's a problem, it's too late: you better take out a loan. Lesson to be learned? Don't be fooled into thinking that your fluid is fine just because it's light in color, or that it's bad just because it's dark in color. When it comes to brake fluid, we need to be as concerned about the calendar as we are about the color.

Me? I change it once a year: problem solved.

Gary

darksider #44

 
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Gary

Excellent post !

Thanks for the reminder. When I bought my replacement AE a little over a year ago I replaced all fluids - including the clutch fluid. I'm due again.

rolleyes.gif


Brodie

 
About the AE, it's a pain in the ass when it comes to bleeding or changing the clutch fluid.

You have remove wheel,driveshaft,swingarm, to get to the actuator.

 
Although I think you bay be somewhat preaching to the choir, that's a great post. After I got my FJR, and had finished my service agreement with my dealer, the first thing I did was put SpeedBleeders on the bike.

They make changing the fluid very easy and fast. I hate doing the rear though as taking off the plastic is a pain in the ass. Dorks...

Prolly better look at my service calendar...I bet its about time.

 
Although I think you bay be somewhat preaching to the choir, that's a great post. After I got my FJR, and had finished my service agreement with my dealer, the first thing I did was put SpeedBleeders on the bike.

They make changing the fluid very easy and fast. I hate doing the rear though as taking off the plastic is a pain in the ass. Dorks...

Prolly better look at my service calendar...I bet its about time.
Hey Z, you're right about the choir: However, not all of us are IN the choir. That's why one feller said he didn't change his clutch fluid because it hadn't turned dark... which got me to thinking that I should do a short write up...

By the way, what's a speed thingie?

Gary

 
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Description from Russel products:

Speed bleeder screws are similar to a stock bleed valve, except feature a spring loaded ball check valve inside. When tightened down it seals the brake system just like a stock screw. To bleed the brakes, just open the valve 1/4 to 1/2 turn and the internal check valve prevents any fluid from escaping until the brake pedal is pumped. When the pedal is pumped the pressure created opens the valve and permits any trapped air to escape.

 
Great post!! Interested in the SpeedBleeders as well.

When it comes to winter storage, the way this reads if you are going to change the brake fluid it would be better to change it before storing it rather than waiting until spring. Then you will avoid water sitting in the system for months rusting things up.

 
I have never changed the brake or clutch fluid on my 08 :eek: Maybe this will be my next project :huh: Now I am off to find a tutorial on fluid changing for dummies.

 
Good info, except for the graph is for DOT 3 fluids which is not what is specified for FJR's. So I did a quick search for DOT 4 boiling points.

https://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/brake-fluid

This basically defines the DOT ratings for brake fluids.

Long story short, don't mix 3 or 4 with 5. 3 and 4 are okay to mix together in a pinch. 4 is more stable in early in life than 3, and, is better suited to race environments. Change your fluids!

 
I have never changed the brake or clutch fluid on my 08 :eek: Maybe this will be my next project :huh: Now I am off to find a tutorial on fluid changing for dummies.
It's crazy easy to do. I prefer the SpeedBleeders while others prefer the Mightyvac. Use what makes you comfortable, but either of these tools will make the process quick, mess free, and easy.

With my bleeders, I open them about 1/4 turn, connect a plastic hose and pump the old fluid out. Doesn't take much as I use a syringe to take the old fluid out of the reservoir first.

No leaks, no air getting back into the system, and when the pumps fluid shows clear, I close up the valve and fill the reservoir.

The order you do the bleed will depend on what Gen bike you have, as all 2006+ are linked brakes.

For my GenII, I do left front, then right front. Then I goto the rear brakes. I do the lower right front (the linked one) first, and then the rear.

Then I do the clutch.

Easily done and tools put away in 30 minutes. The bike just feels better afterward. Its prolly mostly placebo effect, but whatever, I like fresh fluid in my binders and clutch.

 
What an appropiate post. I just changed my brake and clutch fluids. This makes me feel better that I did the right thing. Great post !!!

Willie

 
Good info, except for the graph is for DOT 3 fluids which is not what is specified for FJR's. So I did a quick search for DOT 4 boiling points.

https://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/brake-fluid

This basically defines the DOT ratings for brake fluids.

Long story short, don't mix 3 or 4 with 5. 3 and 4 are okay to mix together in a pinch. 4 is more stable in early in life than 3, and, is better suited to race environments. Change your fluids!
Thanks Bungie. You're right: FJR's take DOT 4. I edited the post to include your info. I read up on some warnings about using DOT 5. Big mistake in an FJR. Noted that we should stick with the DOT 4 as recommended by Yammie.

 
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LOL at the notion of changing brake fluid once a year, of course I suck just at brake bleeding it invariably leads to a trip to the store for more fluid, clean up of a big puddle of fluid from the garage floor, clean up of fluid from parts before the fluid corrodes them and several hours of consternation and words that aren't used in polite company until I get the brakes to be so spongy they could live in a pineapple under the sea.

Also since I live where it's not that humid I figure it's not as essential than for you folks east of the Rockies.

Still, I'm sure it's due for my 08 (no idea if the original owner did it so have to assume he didn't) I'll probably have to buckle down and do a fluid change soon, I have a nice big piece of cardboard and will have to pick up a gallon or so of brake fluid before I can start of course.

 
Called the local stealership to order some speed bleeders. They want $22.00 per., and cannot match the online price of $7.00.

I figured $135.00 is just a tad $$$, compared with $35.00 or so, and since I have two other bikes I'd need a total of 10 speed bleeders!

I was looking at close to $300.00 from the dealer, and probably around $100.00 online, what with shipping/customs etc.

:blink:

So, I ordered a mityvac from Acklands-Grainger for $40.00, and will pick it up next week...

 
For bleeding I use a poor boy bleeder------A piece of cheap clear tubing that fits over the bleed screw....pinch off the tube with a clothespin or something,I have used fingers , does same thing as hi $ speed bleeders....

 
I did my 08 FJR for the first time, a few months ago, before a long trip. I could tell the difference. Brakes were much better. I also did my 95 VMax after I bought it a few years ago. Helped there too. I think I might have been the first time it had been done on it. I've used a mighty vac for 7 or 8 years. Love it.

GP

 
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