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Photo's of how to get under the Tank


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#1 Rickster

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Posted 23 March 2007 - 06:14 PM

*
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Ok -- I had to try to do something positive as this will be my one thousandth post.

Photo's of how to get under the tank to do the TBS (Throttle Body Sync), and/or Throttle Return Spring, and other things (plugs etc.)

Documented for Gen II (2006 and 2007)

(1) Remove passenger saddle using the key, and drivers saddle. To remove the driver's saddle, there is a lever to the aft of the seat





Remove the screw (4mm hex key), and plastic rivet





Remove the plastic tank cover by pulling out on the forward edges, then slide back


Top view of what you're pulling out of what:



This is what's under there -- you have to slide the cover AFT to remove it.




Picture of both the plastic tank cover and where it mates:




Remove the 2 bolts holding the tank on. Cover the tank with a rag to keep from chafing or chipping the paint




Next, prop the tank up slightly, and disconnect the 2 electrical connectors on the bottom of the tank (circled in the photo below)


The release is on the outside of each connector (right side on the green connector, left side on the white connector viewed as you would be sitting on the motorcycle):

Push where highlighted to release the connector locking mechanism:



Now that the connectors are loose, you can raise the tank higher:



Tank raised higher (2X4 trimmed to hold up the tank. Also I've used a bungee cord from the holes back to the passenger grab rail -- just use something to hold the tank up and that is stable.)





Viewing under the tank -- next step -- remove the T-Bar



Note that the washers are not captive -- make sure you don't loose them:






Once the T-Bar is removed, remove the heat shield. Note the plastic rivet just to the left of where the harness exits -- remove that, and the heat shield can be removed.



Remove the aft side by lifting it up to clear:




Then, fold the forward edge under, and remove by pulling it out forward:





Removed view:




Orientation view (heat shield removed):





To do the Throttle Body Sync, you will have to connect the 2 electrical connectors removed to facilitate removal of the heat shield:





The following 4 pictures show the location of the cap that must be removed to connect your vacuum gage (carb stick, etc.)

Pictures are the rightmost first as you sit on the motorcycle:








and lastly the one on the left:



----------------------------------------------------------
There are numerous posts on great techniques to do the actual TBS -- so I'll skip repeating the adjustment.
----------------------------------------------------------


If you want to get the Throttle Return Spring released -- continue to read...


The TRS is in this area:




Top View:



Close up view -- note that the throttle is completely closed -- it makes it difficult to see in this shot.



If you move the throttle with the grip just a little, it is easier to see and get the spring tang from the hook.
You can see the spring tang just below the phililps head screw you see in the photo.



Get the edge (I used a hemostat), and remove it from the holding point.


As you slide it off the hook, it should unwind 1 revolution, and catch on the same hook that you removed it from:



Put everything back in reverse order,
and torque per your owners manual. 7.2 Ft-LB for the 2 forward tank fasteners that hold the tank to the frame.

Torque T-Bar bolts to 27 Ft-LB.

Regards, Rick
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#2 818Guy

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Posted 23 March 2007 - 06:23 PM

Wow. Great post.

Thanks!

(I'm installing my PCIII and this will be a GREAT help.)
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#3 03HiYoSilver

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Posted 23 March 2007 - 06:28 PM

Rickster,
A salute to a marvelous 1000th post. Great pic's and info...well done!

#4 FantasticJohnR

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Posted 23 March 2007 - 06:33 PM

Wow, this makes some of Warchilds post of instructions look elementary.

I really like the step by step instruction with step by step pictures as I am a visual learner!

Thanks yahoo.gif
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#5 warsw

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Posted 23 March 2007 - 06:35 PM

This was a great "how-to". Absolutely took all the guesswork out of it. Great job!!! Thanks. Your timing was perfect. I will be doing my TBS for the first time this Sunday.

#6 JohnB

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Posted 23 March 2007 - 06:35 PM

Awesome, Dude. Muchas gracias.

#7 Canadian FJR

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Posted 23 March 2007 - 06:37 PM

I wonder if that heat shield will fit the older models?











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#8 raclow

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Posted 23 March 2007 - 07:11 PM

WOW, great post. Thanks for sharing. Excellent detail... clapping.gif
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#9 HIGHLANDER

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Posted 23 March 2007 - 07:18 PM

Nice post Rick !!!

You may want to add the torque specs for the T bar reinstallation ( unless I missed it ? ). That torque is WAY more important than the gas tank bolts ....that just need " snug " specs ! biggrin.gif
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#10 Rickster

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Posted 23 March 2007 - 07:29 PM

QUOTE(HIGHLANDER @ Mar 23 2007, 10:18 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Nice post Rick !!!

You may want to add the torque specs for the T bar reinstallation ( unless I missed it ? ). That torque is WAY more important than the gas tank bolts ....that just need " snug " specs ! biggrin.gif


Torque T-Bar fasteners to 27 ft-lbs (using a calibrated torque wrench of course.) smile.gif


Regards, Rick
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#11 HIGHLANDER

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Posted 23 March 2007 - 07:33 PM

thumbsupsmiley.png
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#12 Silent

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Posted 23 March 2007 - 07:35 PM

I wish I had this before I did mine lol


most excellent writeup clapping.gif clapping.gif
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#13 Kaelaria

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Posted 23 March 2007 - 07:39 PM

Your timing couldn't have been better - I'll be doing my first TBS next week! Thanks!!!

#14 FJR Steve

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Posted 23 March 2007 - 08:38 PM

excellent thread.

Especially the TRS. I was of the opinion (reading through all the previous posts and threads) that the spring was to be removed completely. Obviously not.
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#15 teerex51

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Posted 24 March 2007 - 07:58 AM

QUOTE(Canadian FJR @ Mar 23 2007, 10:37 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
I wonder if that heat shield will fit the older models?
Canadian FJR


Man, you stole my line... angry.gif

Actually at first glance, I don't see why not..apart from that 1/4-turn plastic fastener that will need a seat somewhere.

The T-bar ought to hold the shield in its place...
If the Yammy part does not carry an extortionate price, that's likely to be on my next order to University Motors...

Stef

Edit: as per official price list the heat shield costs $107.00 ....mmmhhhh....
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#16 Greg E.

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Posted 24 March 2007 - 10:26 AM

Outstanding 1K post. It will certainly help me w/ the t spring unwind.
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#17 grendell

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Posted 24 March 2007 - 10:48 AM

Very much appreciated. This makes these adjustments much easier to understand and envision.

Thank you very much.

#18 MVF

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Posted 24 March 2007 - 10:26 PM

+1 on the Thanks! Especially for showing this on a 2nd gen bike.
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#19 tyronewildman

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Posted 25 March 2007 - 12:12 AM

QUOTE(FantasticJohnR @ Mar 23 2007, 10:33 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Wow, this makes some of Warchilds post of instructions look elementary.

I really like the step by step instruction with step by step pictures as I am a visual learner!

Thanks yahoo.gif



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#20 IGoSlow

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Posted 04 April 2007 - 05:48 PM

Thanks Rick.

Am getting ready to tackle this myself and this is greatly appreciated.