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Splooge on the rear wheel


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#1 SkooterG

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Posted 11 July 2007 - 11:28 AM

As many of you have, I have periodically experienced the nasty splooge on the rear wheel of my FJR.



Just over a month ago, at the end of the Cal24 rally, I see the following:









Nasty, ain't it?

I have had this occur semi-frequently, but never this bad. I wasn't too worried about it until beeroux comes over, takes a look, and says, "You're not riding (the 700 miles or so) home with it like that are you? That's about to give out!" Well, now I am properly freaked so I went to a local auto parts store, bought a $$$ 17mm wrench and some Mobil1 75W-90 gear oil, and proceeded to open the top final drive port (the fill hole). Well, a little bit of oil comes OUT! Yep. Sucker is full, so obviously in regards to the photos above, a little bit of leaked oil goes a long way in making a mess.

Well, a while back I thought I had the root cause licked, as I described in my Driveshaft/Gear Coupling/Final Drive 101 topic. You see, I thougt it was the seal that is attached to the end of the driveshaft and that slides into the gear coupling that was letting final drive oil through.

Not the case. I need to update the above topic, as it's another seal that is causing the problem. It's the seal that's part of the gear coupling itself - #12 in the diagram below, NOT #34 as I had first thought.






I bought that seal from UMotors a while back when I realized it was the problem and have been carrying it with me when travelling, but have not replaced it as it is still a sporadic problem. Sometimes I get splooge, sometimes not. And when I do, it's still not a lot of oil that is leaking in the great scheme of things.

So in my case, the final drive oil is sometimes leaking past that seal, and working it's way to the swingarm weephole where it then makes the fine mess you see above. Just for your FYI, there are two other seals that can leak (#5, #24 and O-ring #20 in the above diagram), causing problems. Radman did an excellent write-up when he repaired the faulty O-ring his FJR's final drive: Clicky HERE!

So, anybody have any ideas why that seal only leaks sporadically? Should I replace it pronto? Am I in danger? Will cats and dogs be living together?

I mean, it's been doing that for about 70,000 miles so besides the occasional mess, no big deal, right?


Edit: The bad seal (#12) was replaced at 110,000 miles just before the Iron Butt Rally. Now, at 127,000 miles, I have yet to see one single drop of splooge (leaked final drive oil) since the repair. All is right in my final drive's world once again. clapping.gif Oh, and the repair, done by a dealer, was covered completely under the 4 year Y.E.S. extended warranty. yahoo.gif

Edited by SkooterG, 02 October 2007 - 10:39 PM.
Update after repair.

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#2 Ignacio

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Posted 11 July 2007 - 11:42 AM

.....suree....no big deal at all.

Let's see...you have 110K on the bike? 110,000 + 1500 (for WFO and back) + 1500 (transit to St. Louis) = 113,000. If you show up in St. Louis with 113,000 I then predict it will fail catostrophically at 1 a.m. local time, Friday, August 31st at 123,502 miles, in Yukon, Oklahoma. That's 498 miles short of St. Louis....and pretty sure you can't push the bike quite that far.

Get the picture? Don't shame the FJR community with the first IBR failure. Swap Flipper's rear end with Son of Flipper's ASAP!

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#3 radman

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Posted 11 July 2007 - 11:50 AM

QUOTE
So, anybody have any ideas why that seal only leaks sporadically?

Heat? While messy, as you saw and say (Fischer-Price anyone?) a little goes a long way. The military would define that as a seep, not a redline item-a leak (drips, lube level dropping, topping off necessary) would sideline the vehicle until repaired. It shouldn't get worse fast, but it will get worse. On repairing-look for any grooves worn in #13 by the seal-should you find one, the seal will have to be slightly repositioned, or #13 replaced.
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#4 Warchild

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Posted 11 July 2007 - 12:12 PM

I personally believe my Arizona brethren is being hard-headed here by taking a known problematic bike to the IBR. Slots on the Start Line are becoming increasingly rare; your fundamental goal should be to become a legit FINISHER of the event; anything above that is just gravy.

And to be a legit finisher.... you need to have a rock-solid platform under you. This bike is not demonstrating to be all that solid; seems you always have had one issue or another on this bike ever since you endo'ed it last September at Gerlachfest. If this bike fails you during the 'Butt for whatever reason, and you don't earn Finisher status, and you don't get drawn again for many years.... you'll really be pissed at yourself.

QUOTE(SkooterG @ Jul 11 2007, 12:28 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
I mean, it's been doing that for about 70,000 miles so besides the occasional mess, no big deal, right?

I don't think the "no big deal" assessment is quite accurate..... this is an issue you want to completely fixed before even departing for the Start Line in St. Louis.

Serious business.

You have that second FJR that is known good (or at least, hasn't been bounced down the road a couple times)..... that's the bike you should be prepping for the 'Butt, my 'bro..... unsure.gif

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#5 PA1195

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Posted 12 July 2007 - 09:22 PM

QUOTE(SkooterG @ Jul 11 2007, 11:28 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
As many of you have, I have periodically experienced the nasty splooge on the rear wheel of my FJR.


Rear axle vent ok?

Gary in Fairbanks

#6 650cent

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Posted 13 July 2007 - 07:10 AM

I too, have a mild case of the "splooge". Looks exactly like your wheel, Scooter, just not as messy. I noticed it after a 1500 mile trip to Idaho where the temp. was in the 90's. Only 12,500 miles on an '05, maybe it can wait until this winter to tend too it.

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#7 f1fan

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Posted 23 July 2007 - 09:14 AM

I also have the occasional splooge on the rear on my 04. But it started after I took of the wheel for at tire change and the driveshaft maintenance. I probably was bit generous on the moly paste. Because that's what I see on the rear. It is also not as much as you have on yours.

If I were you, I would fix that before I'd go anywhere on a long trip.
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#8 SkooterG

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Posted 02 October 2007 - 10:43 PM

Update on this. I edited my original post, adding info since repair.

After having the seal in question replaced, all is now good with my final drive, and it cost me nothing!

And here's a big "Phooey on youey!" to all you gloom and doom prophylizers. tongue.gif
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#9 HaulinAshe

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Posted 03 October 2007 - 06:46 AM

Scoot,
I would still carefully check the vent (if you have not already). No matter how good the seals, if the pressure builds they will leak.
Jeff

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#10 SockMonkey

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Posted 03 October 2007 - 11:29 AM

QUOTE(SkooterG @ Oct 2 2007, 11:43 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Update on this. I edited my original post, adding info since repair.

After having the seal in question replaced, all is now good with my final drive, and it cost me nothing!

And here's a big "Phooey on youey!" to all you gloom and doom prophylizers. tongue.gif


Out of sheer curiosity as well as future reference, did you have an opportunity to examine the bad seal or, better still, receive an explanation or theory as to why the seal failed?
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#11 Ignacio

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Posted 03 October 2007 - 12:48 PM

QUOTE(SkooterG @ Oct 2 2007, 11:43 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Update on this. I edited my original post, adding info since repair.

After having the seal in question replaced, all is now good with my final drive, and it cost me nothing!

And here's a big "Phooey on youey!" to all you gloom and doom prophylizers. tongue.gif

I'm officially "phooey"ed. Seems you live either a charmed life, the FJR rear-end is bullet-proof compared to bullet-ridden BMW, or you sold your soul to get a 7th place.

I am humbled...to the point of sarcastic amazement. Gonna ride it again at 160,000 miles?

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#12 burnergold2B

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Posted 05 October 2007 - 12:17 AM

Out of torque acorn nuts?

#13 SkooterG

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Posted 05 October 2007 - 12:56 AM

QUOTE(JeffAshe @ Oct 3 2007, 07:46 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Scoot,
I would still carefully check the vent (if you have not already). No matter how good the seals, if the pressure builds they will leak.
Jeff

Never considered that. Though possible, in my case I don't think that was the problem. Old seal = leaks. New seal = no leaks.



QUOTE(MLCavassa @ Oct 3 2007, 12:29 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Out of sheer curiosity as well as future reference, did you have an opportunity to examine the bad seal or, better still, receive an explanation or theory as to why the seal failed?

Unfortunately not. Dealer kept it and I never bothered to ask as FJR was also in for cam chain and cam chain tensioner replacement which I was more concerned with. Seal must not have been too bad as leak/spooge was sporadic. Never a drop on the ground.



QUOTE(Ignacio @ Oct 3 2007, 01:48 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
I'm officially "phooey"ed. Seems you live either a charmed life, the FJR rear-end is bullet-proof compared to bullet-ridden BMW, or you sold your soul to get a 7th place.

I am humbled...to the point of sarcastic amazement. Gonna ride it again at 160,000 miles?

Charmed life - yes, I own an FJR. FJR rear-end bulletproof? - Damn near. No comment to the last.

As for your last question.......lot's of ifs..........

IF......I decide to suffer more punishment and put in for the next IBR, and.........
IF......I get fortunate enough to be selected, and.......
IF......I have the vacation time and money to ride it, and........
IF......I still have confidence in the old whore of an FJR like I do right now (this is the big one), then......

HELL YES! Would love to get it closer to 200k by the end of the IBR however.



QUOTE(burnergold2B @ Oct 5 2007, 01:17 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Out of torque acorn nuts?

Not possible. They have no effect on oil leaks. They do have an effect on your final drive/rear wheel flopping down the road without the rest of your motorcycle however, so make sure they are torqed, mm..K?
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