This thread has been accumulated through observations about commonly asked questions and discussions of the '03 to '05 FJR. If something is missing do your part as a contributing board member and send a PM to Ignacio. Thanks!FJR Model Comparison Matrix
This matrix details difference between model years including Generations of FJR's. It is the most comprehensive yet simple matrix available. Updated by Ignacio.
FJR Orientation Guide
Prior to the service manuals (which is copyrighted) there was a very detailed orientation guide released in or about 2003. Although you can't tear down and rebuild an FJR there are many pictures, detailed schematics, and specs of the 2003 Gen 1 model. Props to Constant Mesh for providing a copy and asking to host on the site.
Accumulated Specifications, Details, and Tips I've Found Useful
2003 about 1800 units
2004 about 2400 units
2005 about 3500 units
* From HMarc Lewis' site
New Purchaser Checklist
Either personally double-check or ask the dealer specifically the following things before taking acceptance of the a new FJR.
Saddlebag locks loctited?
Third lock with bike in case you get a Yamaha top box?
Saddlebag body color caps included?
Toolkit under seat?
Are the steering head bearings torqued? Many '05 were loose from the factory.
Mirrors tight? More than finger tightened. Consider changing to nylocs yourself when convenient.
Stock FJR Headlight Bulb is an H4. 55 watt low beam/60 watt high beam. Lumens are ~1000/1650
Rear Marker/Brake Light - 1157 (8.5/27 watts) or LED replacement here. Other numbers include 2057 (brighter brake light filament), 2357, 7528, & 7225. Consult here for details.
Rear Turn Signal - 1156 (27 watts)
Cowling Marker/Turn Signal - 7443 (5/21 watts)
Oil drain plug = 43 Nm, 31 ft-lbs (Note: Although that is what the manual says, many feel and believe that torque is far in excess of what it should be and risk damaging things. Many torque to 18-22 ft-lbs instead as detailed in the New Owners Read This section)
Rear drain plug = 23 Nm, 17 ft-lbs
Spark plug = 13 Nm, 9.4 ft-lbs
Spark plug gap = .7 - .8mm (.028 - .031 in)
Front wheel axle = 52 ft-lbs.
Front wheel axle pinch bolt = 17 ft-lbs.
Front brake calipers = 29 ft-lbs.
Front ABS Sensor = 12 ft-lbs.? (need to confirm)
Rear wheel axle = 90 ft-lbs.
Rear wheel axle pinch bolt = 11 ft-lbs.
Rear brake torque rod nut = 22 ft-lbs.
Stem Nut = Initial tightening = 37 ft-lbs.
Stem Nut = Final tightening = 13 ft-lbs.
Clicky here for details
Steering Stem Nut Size and Torque
'03 = 32mm
'04-'05 = 36mm
Preferably use a 6 sided socket to reduce the change of marring. 12 will work if used delicately.
Torquing: Click here
Horsepower and Torque
146 crank horsepower (@ 7800 rpm)
127 rear wheel horsepower (@ 7800 rpm)
103 crank foot pounds (@ 6800 rpm)
90 rear wheel foot pounds (@ 6800 rpm)
Source: Dyno Chart
Which Year is "Faster"
Subject to wild speculation, but a well reasoned argument that gives acceleration to the '03 given the lightest weight and most aggressive computer.
General consensus is that the speedometer is about 2% optimistic. It is often not linear. Observations by Ignacio show a 72 mph indicated is an an actual 70 mph via GPS while a 160 indicated is closer to 152 actual.
Multiple odometer calibration runs by Ignacio with a standard sized rear tire show 1.6% optimism on the odometer with Avon Azarros, Pilot Roads, and other tires.
Gearing (From 2003 service manual)
Primary 1.563 (74/48)
Secondary reduction ratio: 2.773 (35/36 x 21/27 x 33/9)
Alternator Output and Spare Capacity
490 watts rated by Yamaha for '03-'05 (upped to 590 in Gen II)
490 watts / 14 volts output = 35 amps
120-130 watts spare capacity per Warchild before Datel drops to ~12.5 - 12.8v region
Upgrading Gen 1 to Gen 2 alternator is likely a fairly expensive, but feasible according to this member's well-considered post.
Graph of alternator output as observed by aftermarket Electrosport here.
12v batter "full charge" = 12.6 to 12.8 volts
Iggy's suggested minimum crusing voltage to not risk deficit = 13.0 volts.
Widder (use less current than Gerbing per Warchild)
Vest = 33, 35, and 48 watts vest (most are probably 35)
Arm Chaps = 20 watts
Gloves = 20 watts
Leg Chaps = 33 watts
My total (Size 48 Lectric 2 Vest): - 35 + 20 + 20 + 33 = 108 watts
Jacket = 77 watts (equals Vest + arm chaps)
Pants = 44 watts
Gloves = 22 watts
Typical total: 77 + 44 + 22 = 143 watts
Jacket Liner = 100 watts
Escort or V1 = ~10 watts
GPS = ~18 watts
Datel Voltmeter Digitalmeter.com
Source: Alternator Question 9/29/2005
Good Replacement: Here
Raising front end - tricky</a> and easy methods
Convenient Maintenance Lists
Alternative or Unofficial Throttle Body Synchronization (TBS) method by Jestal.
Resetting Codes - Have the key turned off and press the select and reset together. Turn the key to on and hold the buttons for about 8 seconds. A screen will apear that reads d1 AG. release the buttons. Then press them both together again for 2 seconds. Another screen will apear with a number on the right. release the buttons again. Make sure the kill switch is on.(for running operation)use either the select button or the reset button to scroll thru the numbers. High number is 70. You are looking for number 61. If you see a 0 at the bottom right then there are no trouble codes. However if you see a number 30 that is the code for an over turned motorcycle. If you have the code 30 and want to erase it. Press the select button and go to number 62. This is the erase code number. Then turn the kill switch off, then back on again. This will erase this and any other codes stored in the memory. Then turn the key off to go back to normal operations. If you have any more codes I suggest you order the big book from FJR Goodies to problem solve or take it to your dealer.
The best grease is Mobil 1 Synthetic and either comes in a tub at local autoparts stores or as a cartridge here
OEM spark plugs = NGK CR8E
The cat's ass spark plugs. Iridiums = Brand: NGK, Part Number: CR8EIX, Stock Number: 4218 (About $7 each if you look on eBay or check out sparkplugssource.com/) and likely last 16K miles. NGK Website
An alternative = NGK CR8VX
Maybe even better = NGK CR8EK (double ground electrodes) (submitted by Toecutter)
And maybe the ultimate = NGK CR8EKPA (double ground with platinum center electrode) (submitted by Toecutter)
Why replace them....they look fine! Internal resistance gets built up and you can't eyeball that. One anecdotal story of a person that left there's in for a long time.
K&N air filter # YA-1301
UNI air filter # NU-3255
The stock horns are wimpy. The popular farkle is to upgrade to Magnum Blasters. Sometimes they're hard to find and may also be marketed as "Freeway Blasters" Part #72112 and # 72102 for the low and high version. They are supposedly made by FIAMM and likely are regulated by U.S. and the E.U. I got mine at a Schucks and are reported to be carried at Napa as "FIAMM Blasters".
Unsure of whether to go to the hassle of installing a realy or FJRandy wiring harness for those man-horns? Click on this discussion for a more informed decision.
Tires & Wheel
Avon AV45 ST 120/70ZR-17 Front
Avon AV46 ST 180/55ZR-17 Rear
Michelin Pilot Road 120/70ZR-17 Front
Michelin Pilot Road 180/55ZR-17 Rear
Repairing on the road:
Progressive Suspensions TRK-2 Plug Kit and Campbell and Hausfeld RP1200 Stripped Down Compressor from Wal-Mart for $9.96.
Rear rim weight (ABS rim w/o parts): 14 pounds
Front axle thickness: 22mm (measured at 21.98 by a member)
Rear axle thickness: 20mm (measured at 19.99 by a member). See here.
Much speculation and hand-wringing as to whether its wise to repair a flat and how long to continue riding. A good poll of what people do to is here.
For inflating flats many prefer 12V "inflators" available from WalMart, Aerostich, and other sources are popular provided 12V power access to the battery or sufficiently large fused source (hint: a 2 amp fuse is going to pop). This review of power inflators is the dog's danglies for types of inflators available.
2003 - 298mm front rotor
2004-2005 - 320mm front rotor
Spiegler Front Manifold and Bracket
Front Wheel Bearing and seal numbers
Front Wheel Bearing 2x NSK 60/22 DU or 60/22 DDU (they are a sealed bearing both sides)
Front Wheel Seal 2x DC 28 44 7 (they are a double liped seal)
I've given the NSK bearing numbers but most manufacturers will have a comparable bearing. (Timken or FAG would be my choice)
FJR1300 Gen1 Rear Wheel bearing and seal details
Bearing NTN brand # 6204CLU
Right Bearing and seal
Bearing NTN brand # 6304CLU
Seal # SD 28 53 6
In this example these are NTN branded bearings
Left handlebar near clutch: M10 x 1.25 pitch
Front preload: Many like 2 to 2.5 rings showing per Warchild
Motorcycle Suspension Setup
Cowling and Nose
Details for removing cowling.
Close-ups of speedometer instrument cluster including changing lights
Celsius 1 bar 40-60, 2 bars 60-80, 3 bars 80-100, 4 bars 100-110, 5 bars 110-120, and 6 bars 120 and up.
Fahrenheit 1 bar 104-140, 2 bars 140-176, 3 bars 176-212, 4 bars 212-230, 5 bars 230-248, and 6 bars 248 and up.
Coolant reservoir capacity (up to the maximum level mark) 0.26 US qt.
Radiator capacity (including all routes): 3.38 US qt.
Total Amount (you can't get it all out without tearing apart the engine): 5.18 quarts
Without filter change (you want to change your filter don't you): 4.02 quarts
With filter change (this is the one you want): 4.23 quarts
Source: Service manual page copied here
Oil Discussion by Jestal
Stripped Oil Bolt Threads Discussion
Oil that comes in the bike at delivery is not "break-in" oil. It's standard Yamalube 20-40W. Source: Warchild
Final Drive Oil Capacity: 0.20L (0.21 US qt)
2005 owners manual
Suggested oil to use Mobil 1 Synthetic 75-90wt
Capacity (each): 30 liters according to European website references.
29.2 liters +/-1 liter according to Ignacio measurement.
Some believe they fail and fall off bikes because of poor design and pin them to the lower attachment point while some are shown to have been broken by over-zealous operators closing the latches and slipping a gear tooth with a "pop" sound and feel (Ignacio admits it) --which then translates to a slide that's not fully deployed and possible bag loss in a big bump. The debate of operator error vs. design issue will probably never be truly resolved.
Low grade is fine unless it knocks. 87 octane for most folks, 85 if you're altitude enhanced.
Gasoline FAQ - Very detailed about the components, make-up, octane, and other details of gasoline for those obsessed with the stupid discussion of whether higher octane fueld is required or beneficial.
Fuel tank capacity 6.61 US gal
Fuel reserve amount 1.32 US gal (when the fuel warning level light comes on)
Yamaha does not generally appear to publish or make available any specific paint codes. Generally refer to www.colorite.com
as they specialize in color matching. Others are educated guesses by members that have tried to match over time.
2003 - Liquid Silver
(PPG)Deltron 2000, DBC37637 "Silbersee"
Wheels - ColorRite shows it as Silver #8 (S8) Paint Code 0895
2004 - Cereulean Silver
PPG Deltron BC/CC
Paint Code, Color, Parts
DMD1687 MED ALUM 113.6
DMD1683 BLACK 27.0
DMD635 COARSE ALUM 29.2
DMD614 BLUE 17.4
DMD624 VIOLET 8.5
DMD646 WK WHITE 3.8
DMD1607 BLUE 2.5
DBX1689 CLEAR 48.0
2005 - Blue
SKU DESC. INC. (part) Cum. (part) (makes 1 U.S. Pints)
DMD624 VIOLET 156.0 156.0
DMD1675 BLUE 142.8 298.8
DMD1683 BLACK 18.9 317.7
PRL92 BLUE PEARL 9.7 327.4
PRL90 RED PEARL 1.6 329.0
PRL98 WHITE PEARL 1.6 330.6
DBX1689 CLEAR 178.0 508.6
2005 - Galaxy Blue
Duplicolor TY01612 Toyota Stellar Blue Metallic (8L7) (Close match for touch-ups)
The "Galaxy Blue" is: Dark Purplish Blue Metallic L
Yamaha code : DPBML
Color code : 0865
Discussed many times here. Basically it's the sun magnifying in the windshield (usually the stock one) in a certain way and making the black plastic bubble--usually around the fuel level indicator area.
The tank may be hot and/or a rider legs. Good summary here.
Warchild's Ticking Archive Act 1
Warchild's Ticking Archive Act 2
Warchild's Ticking Archive Act 3
Warchild's Ticking Archive Act 4
Warchild's Ticking Archive Act 5
It sounds like this.
Australian Technical Service Information Clicky here
Steering Head Wrench - Yamaha YU-33975
Farkles and Mods
Simply the best site! FJRTech.net
Power Commander Information:
Power Commander Maps 03-05 Here, Bounces Map Here. Wally Smoothness Map (one of, if not the, best available) Here
Power Commander Maps 06 Here
Accelerator Pump info and download Here
Dynojet Power Commander main site Here, mucho info available.
Wild Bill Footpegs - Pictures
Vista Cruise - FJRTech.com
V-strom Handguards - blocking off the wind-blast from hitting your exposed fingers goes a long, LONG way toward allowing the winter rider to continue riding in extreme cold with relative comfort, without using up precious amps. FJRGoodies.com sells a complete kit, including the handguards and all necessary mounting hardware. Call Glen at 509-786-2383 to order.
Switches and Boot Covers
DS2 HID (e.g. Hella FF200) = 35 watts running. ~3100 lumens.
Ignacio's Hella FF200 HID Install
Barbarian Jumper Mod and Changing CO2 Settings
2007 - FJR1300A $13,7299 (Yamaha website) Black Cherry
2007 - FJR1300AE $15,599 (Yamaha website) Cerulean Silver
2006 - FJR1300AE $15,299 (Yamaha website) Cobalt Blue
2006 - FJR1300A $13,499 (Yamaha website) Cerulean Silver
2005.5 - FJR1300A - $13,199(Yamaha website) Galaxy Blue
2005.5 - FJR1300 - $12,099 (Yamaha website) Galaxy Blue
2005 - FJR1300A - $12,999 (memory) Galaxy Blue
2005 - FJR1300 - 11,899 (memory) Galaxy Blue
2004 - FJR1300A - $12,599 Cerulean Silver
2004 - FJR1300 - $11,599 Cerulean Silver
2003 - FJR1300 - $11,499 here Liquid Silver
2006 Wet Weight - w/o bags 642 pounds claimed in owners manual
While I generally think extended warranties are a scam, this factory offered program is the exception. GET IT! It's very cheap for the coverage. $389 from D&H Cycle, 18115 US Hwy 31, Cullman, AL 35058, 256-739-1840, 888-553-3311
YES coverage can be bought from one dealer and apply to any other dealer fairly easily.
The one exception are Florida residents. That state is totally screwed up and passed a law that residents can only get insurance from in-state agents. They must have a good lobbyist.
Yamaha Customer Relations
Eytymology of "Farkle"
QUOTE The term "farkle" originated in the ST1100 community in the early '90's.
The first time I heard it used there was 1994, when I initially subscribed to the STOC list. Originally, a "farkle" meant most any modification done to your motorcycle to enhance its use to the owner. It didn't originally include the mere act of installing commercially-available accessories like heated grips or Givi bags, but has since come to be generally accepted as either a mod to existing componentry, fabrication of new items, or the installation of commercially-bought accessories.
The term gradually moved to the Long Distance/Endurance Riding community around the mid-'90's, as the ST1100 was a mainstay workhorse in the Endurance Riding scene throughout the 90's (and even to today, quite frankly). Nobody farkles a motorcycle like the Endurance Riding community, because they have unique requirements for modifications to allow them to stay in the saddle for 20 out of 24 hours a day, for 11 continuous days.
Many are under the mistaken impression that the LD community created the term "farkle", but that's incorrect. Regardless, once it hit the LD scene, other bike communities that are main players there (Connies, Wingabagoes, BMW's of various flavors, etc) also started using the term.
In 2002, when the FJR finally hit our shores, many LDRiders (some former ST1100 riders, some not) immediately saw that this bike would be the Next Big Platform for use in the competitive Endurance Riding arena. Thus the term "farkle" immediately became a common term in the FJR community as well.
That's the true, actual history of the term.
Others believe 'farkle', says originated from "Functional" & "Sparkle" in contrast with the cruiser folks just adding "sparkle".
With the key on hold the select and reset buttons for a few seconds and the display will toggle between Km and Miles.
Posting of Photos on this Board
Laws by State/Province
AMA Information? including helmets and earplugs.
[url="http://www.ducatigir...b_roulette.html"]California including lane splitting and ear plugs.
Radar and laser detectors are illegal in Virginia and Washington D.C. No other states are believed to statutorily limit their use or possession on motorcycles. Ontario is believed to be a Canadian province that bans detectors.
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