Recent content by Mr_Canoehead

LoL - I love my 2006, but I would have bought a 2008 or newer if I had known what a PITA it would be to get it sorted....Spider Bite, Attitude sickness, snatchy throttle, stiff clutch, etc. Yamaha got it all sorted after 2008 (but the colors weren't as good as the 2006).

On my KTM, the CHN knockoffs caused the brake to drag.

Wishing you a speedy recovery! Don't try too hard to remember - it may come back over time or it may never come back. A friend of mine was in a major motorcycle crash last summer and he still doesn't remember a thing. He remembers riding down the highway then waking up in hospital.

I had an twinmax electronic unit for a while - I was getting wildly different readings depending on which way it was connected. As an engineer, it drove me crazy so I did some research and learned that it was measuring differential between the two sources but the sensor was only accurate one way...

I'll be interested to hear whether your speedo is more accurate now. The ROW speedos seem to follow the 10% high Euro guidelines but the USA bikes seem to read accurately.

Revs/Mile should directly correlate to RPM's (and speedo error if it reads off the back wheel). I wonder how far off your revs can be between the front and rear before the ABS unit starts to get upset? I suspect the basic unit on my '06 wouldn't care but the newer bikes might act up if they have...

My 2006 runs as described when the battery gets weak. The way I check for this is to leave it on the tender overnight and it will run perfectly first start in the morning. Then it will get worse as the bike sits. Changing to a new battery solves the issue (until the new one starts doing the same...

I have the MRA one on my Rifle screen. I find that it works really well to calm the air around my helmet. I have one on my FJR and another on my KTM, so I guess I'm a believer. My only criticism is that the MRA screen comes with a bag of tiny plastic parts that go together differently depending...

2006. I have only tried a couple of times and it wasn't pleasant - rough enough not to try again. I am pretty mechanically sensitive, though. Which reminds me, I still need to install the slipper clutch I bought a few years ago.

I wouldn't let a chain be a major deterrent to buying a bike. My KTM went 24k miles on the first chain and the replacement is at 20k miles with no sign of wear yet. Changing a chain is a pretty easy job and chain drive has the advantages of lower unsprung weight and easy gearing changes. Yes...

I test rode an R1200GS and an S100XR on the same day a few years ago (2019?). The clutchless up and down on the quickshifter was perfect on the XR but pretty clunky on the GS. I put it down to the responsiveness and light flywheel of the 4 vs the twin. My FJR doesn't like clutchless shifting...

I have a few SW Motech bags for my different bikes. If you want a larger bag, I've found that the SW Motech City bag fits well on the FJR. The SW GS bag is too tall to fit well, although it might work with a Frankentank and/or the seat in the low position.

Background: I purchased a US ECU to try and cure the altitude sickness. The bike would not start and when I broke down and bought a new ECU from Yamaha Canada (there was no recall in Canada), the bike would also not start until I completed the handshake procedure in the fsm. The US ECU was good...

I can say from personal experience that a US ECU will not work on a Canadian bike. The immobiliser shuts everything down if it doesn't see its paired ECU.

Exactly, I think that is where the PO of John's bike got it wrong - with the cams lined up, the crank was off one tooth. Easy mistake to make but turning the engine over a couple of times and double checking should have caught it.