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FJR Motorcycle Forums
Technical & Mechanical Problems
2007 FJR1300A Intermittently Stalling at Idle or throttle release
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<blockquote data-quote="Denver_FJR" data-source="post: 1176908" data-attributes="member: 19217"><p>Dead weight, totally agree! But the ECU doesn't "know" that PAIR has been removed, for example the ECU is still attempting to trigger the PAIR solenoid.</p><p></p><p>There are a couple simple ways to test basic O2 function but they have some caveats:</p><p></p><ul> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">Remove sensor and use a propane torch to heat sensor while watching voltage. I've never tried it and some say there's a risk you could cook the sensor. Lots of YouTube examples of this technique.</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">Backprobe sensor while in system and engine running (use a high impedance digital meter). Run engine up to about 2500 RPM and watch for voltage to begin switching between about 0.1 and 0.9 volts. This requires the engine/ECU is running well enough to go into closed loop. It may take several seconds of steady throttle before closed loop is achieved. Unfortunately, if this fails it may just mean the system is not going closed for some other reason. It's also difficult to detect if sensor has become "slow". At least in my case I could see voltage switch at least once or twice a second and was comfortable it was working as it should.</li> </ul></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Denver_FJR, post: 1176908, member: 19217"] Dead weight, totally agree! But the ECU doesn't "know" that PAIR has been removed, for example the ECU is still attempting to trigger the PAIR solenoid. There are a couple simple ways to test basic O2 function but they have some caveats: [LIST][*]Remove sensor and use a propane torch to heat sensor while watching voltage. I've never tried it and some say there's a risk you could cook the sensor. Lots of YouTube examples of this technique. [*]Backprobe sensor while in system and engine running (use a high impedance digital meter). Run engine up to about 2500 RPM and watch for voltage to begin switching between about 0.1 and 0.9 volts. This requires the engine/ECU is running well enough to go into closed loop. It may take several seconds of steady throttle before closed loop is achieved. Unfortunately, if this fails it may just mean the system is not going closed for some other reason. It's also difficult to detect if sensor has become "slow". At least in my case I could see voltage switch at least once or twice a second and was comfortable it was working as it should. [/LIST] [/QUOTE]
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FJR Motorcycle Forums
Technical & Mechanical Problems
2007 FJR1300A Intermittently Stalling at Idle or throttle release
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