Brakes lose pressure if you do not ride for a while?

[Birdman2010]

I bought a Tesla Model 3 and I absolutely love that car!  I have been driving it everywhere.  Unfortunately, my 2015 FJR1300 has not been getting any love lately.  It sat parked and covered for six months!  I cannot believe that I left it alone that long!  Last month, I rode the bike from Phoenix, AZ  to  Sturgis, SD for the rally.  Unfortunately, the rear brakes dropped pressure during the first part of the ride.  When I got back, I took the FJR into the dealer since I had the extended warranty.  I expected the dealer to replace the rear master cylinder under warranty.  When I picked up the bike, they charged me $120 for bleeding the rear brakes and they did not replace anything.  He said that it is a known issue that the FJR1300 will lose rear brake pressure if you do not ride it for a few months.  He said that if you are not going to ride it, you should put a brick on the rear brake lever to maintain the pressure.  WTH?

Is this true or do I need to find a different dealer/mechanic?

Thanks.

 

[Ignacio]

I'm going to take a swing since I'm not spending all my time nursing the forum sofware these days!

Narrowing to what I think is the important parts of your statement:

Unfortunately, the rear brakes dropped pressure during the first part of the ride.  .....He said that it is a known issue that the FJR1300 will lose rear brake pressure if you do not ride it for a few months. you should put a brick on the rear brake lever to maintain the pressure. 

Color me skeptical that specific first bolded part is a known issue or remotely acceptable from a basic safety perspective.  Pishaw!

What I believe is a known issue is the rear brake pivot can become gummed up and apply the brake a little bit if you're not actively applying it...in essence a dragging brake. And I could imagine it plausible that a dragging rear brake heat things up over time, fail, and act like pressure dropped as the brake fluid overheats. And we've talked many, Many, MANY times about lubing that pivot point on the forum and I'm sure all will suggest doing it.

But I've never heard that losing brake pressure as a known issue.  <sarcasm>And if the dealer insists that specific point is tire....I'm sure they produce a Yamaha bulletin on the subject.</sarcasm>  BS in other words.

And to suggest putting a brick to maintain pressure? Are you sure they weren't describing a process to help bleed the brakes if things get spongy?

 

[dcarver]

No No No. FJR's don't lose brake pressure unless it's a 2013 named Naomi and owned by me. The rear will get soft, it's gotta be letting air by the puck seal on the RHS front that's linked to ABS. 

 

[Birdman2010]

I'm going to take a swing since I'm not spending all my time nursing the forum sofware these days!

Narrowing to what I think is the important parts of your statement:

Color me skeptical that specific first bolded part is a known issue or remotely acceptable from a basic safety perspective.  Pishaw!

What I believe is a known issue is the rear brake pivot can become gummed up and apply the brake a little bit if you're not actively applying it...in essence a dragging brake. And I could imagine it plausible that a dragging rear brake heat things up over time, fail, and act like pressure dropped as the brake fluid overheats. And we've talked many, Many, MANY times about lubing that pivot point on the forum and I'm sure all will suggest doing it.

But I've never heard that losing brake pressure as a known issue.  <sarcasm>And if the dealer insists that specific point is tire....I'm sure they produce a Yamaha bulletin on the subject.</sarcasm>  BS in other words.

And to suggest putting a brick to maintain pressure? Are you sure they weren't describing a process to help bleed the brakes if things get spongy?

That is what I thought.  I agree that it is not "remotely acceptable from a basic safety perspective".  Time to find a new mechanic.  Thanks!

 

[escapefjrtist]

Brick on brake pedal comment, perhaps, but don't blow the dealer off too quickly. This same issue has been documented many, many times here on different threads.

I have to bleed the rear brake on my '15 at least once a year to keep a nice firm pedal. While bleeding, I always get a fair amount of bubbles from the linked RH front caliper. Why, dunno but it's been the case on the current '15 and previous '09 & '06. Although on the '06 bleeding was needed less frequently.

~G

 

[Birdman2010]

Brick on brake pedal comment, perhaps, but don't blow the dealer off too quickly. This same issue has been documented many, many times here on different threads.

I have to bleed the rear brake on my '15 at least once a year to keep a nice firm pedal. While bleeding, I always get a fair amount of bubbles from the linked RH front caliper. Why, dunno but it's been the case on the current '15 and previous '09 & '06. Although on the '06 bleeding was needed less frequently.

~G

Thank you for this advice.  I change my own oil, but I take it to the dealer for service for anything else.  Based on your advice, I am going to learn how to bleed the brakes and simply do it once a  year.  There is no way that I am going to leave a brick on the rear brake pedal.  That just seems silly.

Thanks!

 

[Ignacio]

There is no way that I am going to leave a brick on the rear brake pedal.  That just seems silly.

Not for a year, but for overnight or a couple of days...or a zip tie on the front brake to let out trapped small clinging air bubbles during a deliberate bleeding process....makes total sense.

 

[SMR_SLT]

I have the same issue on my 2012. The RHS front caliper needs to be bled once a year to maintain a firm rear brake pedal. I have never found any source of brake fluid leak but somehow air gets into that caliper.

 

[johnvectra123]

I have the same issue on my 2012. The RHS front caliper needs to be bled once a year to maintain a firm rear brake pedal. I have never found any source of brake fluid leak but somehow air gets into that caliper.

Well this thread has sure been a great help to me
I've just bought an 08, that's been sat in a garage for two years. I trailered it home, and only noticed that the rear brake pedal moved it full range of motion. I immediately thought that the master cylinder seals had gone, and I went ahead and bought a kit via the internet.
Then I found this post and after a short afternoon of bleeding, the brake is back to normal. My word, there was a fair amount of air in that bottom bleed nipple. With no leaks on the system, I'm not sure how the air gets in, but it does. I'm happy, though!!

 

[graytaz]

There is no way that I am going to leave a brick on the rear brake pedal. That just seems silly.

I had the same soft rear brake issue for years. Had the dealer work on it and they even replaced the rear master cylinder which was a wasted effort. I heard about the weight left on the brake pedal, I used a piece of railway track hung off a bungie cord, and found that it worked. My current mechanic has bled my brakes every couple years and only on the last one was he able to get the pedal properly firmed up after bleeding that rear a lot. I think there are a couple high points near the abs pump that can hold air pockets that are extremely difficult to get bled. Thing is that the weight on the pedal does help but bleeding the lines is the best way to resolve it.

 

[RossKean]

Never had an issue. Just remember that the lower bleeder on the right front caliper needs to be bled first (using the rear brake pedal), before bleeding the rear caliper. The lower front right piston pair is linked to the rear brake circuit.