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FJR Motorcycle Forums
Technical & Mechanical Problems
DIY Oil Changes While On the Road - Suggestions?
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<blockquote data-quote="Fred W" data-source="post: 1236626" data-attributes="member: 3828"><p>The main problem with conventional multi-viscosity oils is the "viscosity improver" additives that are required to obtain that viscosity/temperature stability. I know that this is counter-intuitive, but an oil that has a larger spread between the first and second number actually maintains its viscosity <em>better </em>when heated than an oil with a smaller spread. Those VI additives are not as robust as the base oil and they will break down and shear in the transmission over time and then you end up with a much lower viscosity oil than what you started out with.</p><p></p><p>Typically, synthetic oils achieve their spread in multi-viscosity via the synthesis process, not by using VI additives, so they are not as prone to thinning, or shearing (in the transmission) over higher mileages, hence their ability to be used with increased change intervals..</p><p></p><p>"Energy Conserving" oils come in all different ranges of viscosity ratings, but typically you do see them in the lighter weights as the energy loss is lower with the lightest possible oil. They also contain friction modifier packages that improve the "Energy Conserving" properties. It is those friction modifiers that are incompatible with a wet clutch motorcycle. You need friction in the clutch.</p><p></p><p>Mobil1 makes an oil rated at 0W40. They call it their "European Formula". It doesn't have any friction modifiers, so it <em>could</em> be used in an FJR. But unless you plan on spending a lot of time starting the bike in sub-zero temps, the 0W part of that oil is pretty much wasted. I've never had the least bit of trouble starting an FJR, even at below freezing temps, with a 15Wxx rated oil.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Fred W, post: 1236626, member: 3828"] The main problem with conventional multi-viscosity oils is the "viscosity improver" additives that are required to obtain that viscosity/temperature stability. I know that this is counter-intuitive, but an oil that has a larger spread between the first and second number actually maintains its viscosity [I]better [/I]when heated than an oil with a smaller spread. Those VI additives are not as robust as the base oil and they will break down and shear in the transmission over time and then you end up with a much lower viscosity oil than what you started out with. Typically, synthetic oils achieve their spread in multi-viscosity via the synthesis process, not by using VI additives, so they are not as prone to thinning, or shearing (in the transmission) over higher mileages, hence their ability to be used with increased change intervals.. "Energy Conserving" oils come in all different ranges of viscosity ratings, but typically you do see them in the lighter weights as the energy loss is lower with the lightest possible oil. They also contain friction modifier packages that improve the "Energy Conserving" properties. It is those friction modifiers that are incompatible with a wet clutch motorcycle. You need friction in the clutch. Mobil1 makes an oil rated at 0W40. They call it their "European Formula". It doesn't have any friction modifiers, so it [I]could[/I] be used in an FJR. But unless you plan on spending a lot of time starting the bike in sub-zero temps, the 0W part of that oil is pretty much wasted. I've never had the least bit of trouble starting an FJR, even at below freezing temps, with a 15Wxx rated oil. [/QUOTE]
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Technical & Mechanical Problems
DIY Oil Changes While On the Road - Suggestions?
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