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FJR Motorcycle Forums
Technical & Mechanical Problems
Installing All Balls Racing Tapered Steering Head Bearings
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<blockquote data-quote="scubabiker" data-source="post: 363670" data-attributes="member: 13612"><p>I was still nervous about the gap under the bearing and went over to see my friend who has a press in his garage ($140 from Harbor freight, but it works). I sprayed it with some WD40 and tried the copper pipe I had used originally. It started to bend. My buddy had some galvanized pipe laying around, but it didn't fit the bearing well. Fortunately I had brought the old race along. Flipped up side down, it fit the bearing well and the pipe fit it. After some scary, ugly noises, there was a pop and the bearing seated all the way down. I packed the bearings with marine bearing grease (an old dirt biking habit, it holds up better and stops corrosion). Then used a large pair of channel locks to tighten it down, back off and retighten. I would guess I'm at about 30-35 ft. lbs. I may buy the proper spanner wrench if I can find one and see the actual torque. Unless you are loose, I don't see as how torque can be too critical. Unlike a wheel bearing that would get hot if overtightened, there's not much movement (read friction) of the bearing in the steering head. Be like the really old bikes, tighten it tighter to act as a steering damper. With the stem in place I could put my forks back on with the GP Suspension Eichbac springs and freash oil. plusI put new EBC HH pads all the way round and bleed the brakes and clutch. Now if I can get my valve adjustment finished, put on the heated grips and get all that plastic back in place, I might get to try it out. Tonight there is a storm with 70mph winds and a widchill of -20 below, so not too big a rush. <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite2" alt=";)" title="Wink ;)" loading="lazy" data-shortname=";)" /></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="scubabiker, post: 363670, member: 13612"] I was still nervous about the gap under the bearing and went over to see my friend who has a press in his garage ($140 from Harbor freight, but it works). I sprayed it with some WD40 and tried the copper pipe I had used originally. It started to bend. My buddy had some galvanized pipe laying around, but it didn't fit the bearing well. Fortunately I had brought the old race along. Flipped up side down, it fit the bearing well and the pipe fit it. After some scary, ugly noises, there was a pop and the bearing seated all the way down. I packed the bearings with marine bearing grease (an old dirt biking habit, it holds up better and stops corrosion). Then used a large pair of channel locks to tighten it down, back off and retighten. I would guess I'm at about 30-35 ft. lbs. I may buy the proper spanner wrench if I can find one and see the actual torque. Unless you are loose, I don't see as how torque can be too critical. Unlike a wheel bearing that would get hot if overtightened, there's not much movement (read friction) of the bearing in the steering head. Be like the really old bikes, tighten it tighter to act as a steering damper. With the stem in place I could put my forks back on with the GP Suspension Eichbac springs and freash oil. plusI put new EBC HH pads all the way round and bleed the brakes and clutch. Now if I can get my valve adjustment finished, put on the heated grips and get all that plastic back in place, I might get to try it out. Tonight there is a storm with 70mph winds and a widchill of -20 below, so not too big a rush. ;) [/QUOTE]
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FJR Motorcycle Forums
Technical & Mechanical Problems
Installing All Balls Racing Tapered Steering Head Bearings
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