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FJR Motorcycle Forums
Technical & Mechanical Problems
Questions after doing rear tire/brake, lube splines, shifter pivot, etc.
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<blockquote data-quote="Constant Mesh" data-source="post: 998478" data-attributes="member: 615"><p>I use a simple L-shaped hex key to hold the bolt at the upper end of the caliper rod. Short end into the bolt and long end back down along the swingarm. During loosening the hex key will pivot up and stop against the muffler support bracket. During tightening I place something (plastic spacer) which can be easily removed down between the hex key and the swingarm. As you tighten the nut the hex key will rotate down onto the spacer and swingarm. Once tight you can remove the spacer which loosens the hex key for removal from the bolt head. One could use a hex bit socket with a long bit and stay clear of the swingarm. I have the L-shaped hex key so I use it.</p><p></p><p>Don't know about a replacement for the "star" headed bolt up front. It's a fairly large diameter bolt which would have a large socket head. They may have wanted a rounded head which would be smaller and less prominent in that location. Max clearance between the bolt head and the shift arm.</p><p></p><p>For the two times I've had the rear drive off I've always had the wheel off when tightening the four acorn nuts. I just use a simple box end wrench on the nuts. Steel nut on a steel bolt so precise torque is not that much of an issue. I do run the axle through the drive and the swingarm (pinch bolt loose) before I tighten the four nuts just to make sure the drive alignment is correct and the axle's not binding to ensure easy wheel mounting.</p><p></p><p>With the drive turned on its side in your photo I might have expected some oil to leave through the breather on top. Maybe it's not possible. Maybe it's not a breather?</p><p></p><p>I haven't removed the caliper bolts you mentioned. Others have noted problems with them. I won't be removing them until it's necessary. Maybe one can apply some penetrating oil to assist in their removal.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Constant Mesh, post: 998478, member: 615"] I use a simple L-shaped hex key to hold the bolt at the upper end of the caliper rod. Short end into the bolt and long end back down along the swingarm. During loosening the hex key will pivot up and stop against the muffler support bracket. During tightening I place something (plastic spacer) which can be easily removed down between the hex key and the swingarm. As you tighten the nut the hex key will rotate down onto the spacer and swingarm. Once tight you can remove the spacer which loosens the hex key for removal from the bolt head. One could use a hex bit socket with a long bit and stay clear of the swingarm. I have the L-shaped hex key so I use it. Don't know about a replacement for the "star" headed bolt up front. It's a fairly large diameter bolt which would have a large socket head. They may have wanted a rounded head which would be smaller and less prominent in that location. Max clearance between the bolt head and the shift arm. For the two times I've had the rear drive off I've always had the wheel off when tightening the four acorn nuts. I just use a simple box end wrench on the nuts. Steel nut on a steel bolt so precise torque is not that much of an issue. I do run the axle through the drive and the swingarm (pinch bolt loose) before I tighten the four nuts just to make sure the drive alignment is correct and the axle's not binding to ensure easy wheel mounting. With the drive turned on its side in your photo I might have expected some oil to leave through the breather on top. Maybe it's not possible. Maybe it's not a breather? I haven't removed the caliper bolts you mentioned. Others have noted problems with them. I won't be removing them until it's necessary. Maybe one can apply some penetrating oil to assist in their removal. [/QUOTE]
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FJR Motorcycle Forums
Technical & Mechanical Problems
Questions after doing rear tire/brake, lube splines, shifter pivot, etc.
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