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FJR Motorcycle Forums
Technical & Mechanical Problems
Replacing cam chain - remove ignition rotor?
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<blockquote data-quote="griff" data-source="post: 394499" data-attributes="member: 1658"><p>Ok, I guess it's my turn for an update</p><p></p><p>Got my new cam chain on this weekend, plus cam chain tensioner, not to mention having to change 4 valve shims. I got the timing rotor bolt retorqued by putting the bike in gear and holding the rear brake. Easily got the torque required on the bolt without having the crank turn (and not taking off the stator). I agree the shop diagram is somewhat confusing about the cams, but the article by Torch discusses the holes in the cam that need to line up with the little arrows on the cam holders. Making sure the T mark on the ignition rotor is in the right position and the holes on the cam shaft and the cam holder arrows line up was not too difficult. I used a long pick with a hook on the end to turn the bolts in on the cam chain tensioner. And like Colin I discovered that you really did need to loosen the idle adjustment knob to get the tensioner in and out.</p><p></p><p>But there was that initial moment of anxiety when you first turn it over after a valve shim ectomy. Started right up, sounds good, maybe even quieter than before!! Just have to put the tupperware back on and away we go. Except for the still crappy Indiana weather.</p><p></p><p>griff</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="griff, post: 394499, member: 1658"] Ok, I guess it's my turn for an update Got my new cam chain on this weekend, plus cam chain tensioner, not to mention having to change 4 valve shims. I got the timing rotor bolt retorqued by putting the bike in gear and holding the rear brake. Easily got the torque required on the bolt without having the crank turn (and not taking off the stator). I agree the shop diagram is somewhat confusing about the cams, but the article by Torch discusses the holes in the cam that need to line up with the little arrows on the cam holders. Making sure the T mark on the ignition rotor is in the right position and the holes on the cam shaft and the cam holder arrows line up was not too difficult. I used a long pick with a hook on the end to turn the bolts in on the cam chain tensioner. And like Colin I discovered that you really did need to loosen the idle adjustment knob to get the tensioner in and out. But there was that initial moment of anxiety when you first turn it over after a valve shim ectomy. Started right up, sounds good, maybe even quieter than before!! Just have to put the tupperware back on and away we go. Except for the still crappy Indiana weather. griff [/QUOTE]
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FJR Motorcycle Forums
Technical & Mechanical Problems
Replacing cam chain - remove ignition rotor?
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