Will be replacing the OE tensioner on my '04 FJR. Should I remove the locking tab from the new tensioner and check its operation before installing on bike?
Testing cam chain tensioner before installation
- Thread starter Constant Mesh
- Start date
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RossKean
Well-known member
Wouldn't hurt but probably not necessary. The newer style CCT's won't stay retracted without the locking tab so you would have to retract it and replace the tab before installation (I assume that can be done). Remember to cover the frame hole with a piece of duct tape before you start. You might find it easier to cut a slot in the heads of the retaining bolts. Hard to get a wrench on these.
Check this out...
Lessons Learned on changing the CCT - Technical Discussions - FJRForum
Check this out...
Lessons Learned on changing the CCT - Technical Discussions - FJRForum
I installed a green dot tensioner successfully. I noticed that the long screwdriver I had been using for the old tensioner didn't work in the new tensioner very well. A smaller diameter screwdriver worked fine in the new tensioner. The new tensioner won't lock in the retracted position. When I pull the tab it launches.
I shortened a cheap 8 mm box end wrench for the bottom screw.
I cut a slot in the 10 mm screw but not the others.
To hold the 10 mm screw I used a bit of cereal box. Using scissors I cut out a long narrow strip, punched a small hole and threaded the screw into it. With my scissors I made a cut from bottom tip of the strip to the hole so I could rip the material straight up and away once the screw was started. Didn't have to be concerned about dropping the screw with it tightly threaded into the paper strip.
To quickly turn the lower screw I wrapped some thread around a bare socket and spun in the screw like pulling a recoil cord on a mower engine. Worked quite nicely.
I was very concerned about overtightening those 8 mm screws. The combination wrench used for final tightening was a bit less than 4 inches long. So I could apply up to 24 lbs of force. I'll check them periodically for any loosening.
I shortened a cheap 8 mm box end wrench for the bottom screw.
I cut a slot in the 10 mm screw but not the others.
To hold the 10 mm screw I used a bit of cereal box. Using scissors I cut out a long narrow strip, punched a small hole and threaded the screw into it. With my scissors I made a cut from bottom tip of the strip to the hole so I could rip the material straight up and away once the screw was started. Didn't have to be concerned about dropping the screw with it tightly threaded into the paper strip.
To quickly turn the lower screw I wrapped some thread around a bare socket and spun in the screw like pulling a recoil cord on a mower engine. Worked quite nicely.
I was very concerned about overtightening those 8 mm screws. The combination wrench used for final tightening was a bit less than 4 inches long. So I could apply up to 24 lbs of force. I'll check them periodically for any loosening.
