Caution with Throttle Spring Unwind Mod

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I have tried the spring unwind and don't like it. The throttle would not immediately close when the throttle was released, and on bumpy roads it was harder to maintain an even throttle. I have tried the spring thing twice, and still don't like it. I have got the G2 mod installed, and it helped smooth the throttle response, but it is still not perfect. The FJR is just very throttle sensitive.

If anyone needs suggestions on a relatively easy way to re-wind the spring let me know. The first time it took a couple hours to figure it out, the last time about 20 minutes.

Kurt

 
I may be missing something, but the throttle has two cables, one pulls the throttle open, the other pulls the throttle closed, so if the throttle does not "snap" closed, is it really that big of a deal? I realize there should be some type of return and no binding!

Just wondering?

By the way, I have relaxed the center spring one turn and have a slower return.

 
If anyone needs suggestions on a relatively easy way to re-wind the spring let me know. The first time it took a couple hours to figure it out, the last time about 20 minutes.
Please do. I am considering replacing my 3rd spring to wound position.

Here's my thoughts on the spring...

I have Vista-Cruise installed with G2 tube. The VC definitely causes some drag, especially with the oversize football grips I use.

G2 throttle tube has significantly more drag than the nylon OEM tube. Frequent maintenance is needed with the G2. You have to clean the tube i.d. and the bar end, then re-lube with a light grease. The OEM tube worked fine with a bit of silicone spray. So IMO, the G2 is a huge factor in the lack of throttle return rate.

Age is a factor, spring age that is. My throttle has been open for 36,000 miles and 14 months. I have the performance awards to prove it. Springs weaken with time, especially during the early part of their useful life span. Fork springs do the same thing. It's a spring thing we call "settling".

With a freshly cleaned and lubed throttle tube, my throttle returns in about five(5) seconds. If the tube has not been cleaned in a couple months the throttle will not return by itself. I almost don't need a throttle lock. Personally, I like it that way. A little more return rate would be nice, so I am considering adding the third spring again.

I'm willing to bet that anyone who is having issue with the 3rd spring unwind, is also running a G2 throttle tube and probably a VistaCruise or similar throttle lock. It's the cumulative effect of all those drag factors IMO.

Guess it's a question of what you want to happen when you have the heart attack while riding the FJR. I'll probably keep going for a while because my throttle stays open.

:)

 
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I have the G2 tube and it's been in use for about a year. I have a BrakeAway throttle lock. I also let the center spring unwind one turn. I still have the stock gripps.

I lubricated the sleeve with dry graphite to prevent (slow down) the gathering of dirt that attracts itself to grease.

1 Mississippi, 2 Mississippi,3 Mississippi, 4 Mississippi, 5 Mississippi.... That sure sounds like a long time for the throttle to return.

 
Hey Capt. Bob,

You are right, it is a long time.

Graphite probably helps a lot. I just never have it around and have no other use for it, so I grab white lithium grease.

My big, fat football-shaped Sport-Touring grips definitely apply more side pressure on the slipper donut ring than stock grips. So that's contributor number two.

I'm probably just lazy or too busy changing tires to really worry about it. Throttle is something I control 100% of the time unless it's locked or at idle, so the lack of a speedy return has not yet bothered me. I'm really just offering some ideas on what might make some people have quick returning throttles and others do not, with seemingly similar (yet not exact) setups.

 
I attached a thin wire to mine before I released it to make it easier to put back on if I wanted to reattach it. I released the tension sowly and the spring didn't make a complete revolution and isn't attached to the tang anymore; appears some springs maybe wound tighter than others from the factory? My throttle snaps back without delay.
BINGO! Appearantly the guy doing the throttle body installs at the factory is not particularly consistant. For those that truely have an excessively strong return only 1 turn can be wound back as DUFF said. If 1 turn leaves the spring loose or off the post, your bike did not have the tight spring.

This mod should be done ONLY if the return force proves to be excessive, not just to make it even softer. I will measure the the grip return force and report back so we have a reference # t o work with.

Don't get the bike back till tomorrow so if anyone is curious or bored and can do it sooner - go for it!

 
Like Capt. Bob I've been running with the center spring unwound one turn and the G2 tube, grip puppies over stock grips, and a throttle lock for over a year. I used the Honda Moly grease on the G2 tube and smoothed out the interior first with emery cloth. It did return slowly at first but after about a week or so it works perfect. I have done nothing to this setup since and don't feel there is a need. The stock throttle was way too tight in the begining and was just annoying. Thanks again to the input on this site to make for a better ride. PM. <>< :D

 
Have been visiting the forum almost every day since buying my 2006 fjr in January 2007 and love it (both FJR and this site).

I need to share my experience regarding the much talked about throttle spring mod.

Question, this may sound stupid but, did you by the 06 NEW in 07 or USED? :detective2: If it was used could it be that the spring had already been unwrapped one? Just a thought. That whole inconsistency from the manufacturer thing sounds likely too.
 
I have the middle spring released one turn and have good throttle return to idle. However everything has to be right. Even slight friction prevents quick shout down. Making sure the Vstrom handguards did not touch the throttle grip or tube at all was one of the recent challenges I had to solve. However I have always been able to find and ID the cause of a sticky throttle. The most difficult problem to find has been too much lubricant. I have found the a very smallamount of white lithium grease works well. More than a very small amount actually causes more stiction.

 
First remove the gas tank. This is necessary in order to get access to the throttle shaft.

Second get a nylon tie about 8" long, and about 3/16" wide, cut off one end and use a small punch to put a hole slightly larger than the diameter of the throttle return spring wire near the cut end.

Third curl up the nylon tie - wrap around a finger or whatever - and then insert the curled tie around the spring pushing it from the rear, underneath and around over the top, then hook the hole in the tie on the spring (actually goes on quite easily).

Fourth gently pull the nylon tie and the spring will rewind - might need to use a small screw driver to make sure the spring reattaches at the proper spot.

Hope this helps.

If anyone needs suggestions on a relatively easy way to re-wind the spring let me know. The first time it took a couple hours to figure it out, the last time about 20 minutes.
Please do. I am considering replacing my 3rd spring to wound position.

Here's my thoughts on the spring...

I have Vista-Cruise installed with G2 tube. The VC definitely causes some drag, especially with the oversize football grips I use.

G2 throttle tube has significantly more drag than the nylon OEM tube. Frequent maintenance is needed with the G2. You have to clean the tube i.d. and the bar end, then re-lube with a light grease. The OEM tube worked fine with a bit of silicone spray. So IMO, the G2 is a huge factor in the lack of throttle return rate.

Age is a factor, spring age that is. My throttle has been open for 36,000 miles and 14 months. I have the performance awards to prove it. Springs weaken with time, especially during the early part of their useful life span. Fork springs do the same thing. It's a spring thing we call "settling".

With a freshly cleaned and lubed throttle tube, my throttle returns in about five(5) seconds. If the tube has not been cleaned in a couple months the throttle will not return by itself. I almost don't need a throttle lock. Personally, I like it that way. A little more return rate would be nice, so I am considering adding the third spring again.

I'm willing to bet that anyone who is having issue with the 3rd spring unwind, is also running a G2 throttle tube and probably a VistaCruise or similar throttle lock. It's the cumulative effect of all those drag factors IMO.

Guess it's a question of what you want to happen when you have the heart attack while riding the FJR. I'll probably keep going for a while because my throttle stays open.

:)
 
Question, this may sound stupid but, did you by the 06 NEW in 07 or USED? :detective2: If it was used could it be that the spring had already been unwrapped one? Just a thought. That whole inconsistency from the manufacturer thing sounds likely too.
Yes I did buy my 06 new so the spring was factory original in it's setup. The spring certainly only unwound one turn (slightly less than one turn in reality). I rewound it one turn to reinstall it and is back to it's original tension. Very happy to leave it as original now.

 
First remove the gas tank. This is necessary in order to get access to the throttle shaft.
Second get a nylon tie about 8" long, and about 3/16" wide, cut off one end and use a small punch to put a hole slightly larger than the diameter of the throttle return spring wire near the cut end.

Third curl up the nylon tie - wrap around a finger or whatever - and then insert the curled tie around the spring pushing it from the rear, underneath and around over the top, then hook the hole in the tie on the spring (actually goes on quite easily).

Fourth gently pull the nylon tie and the spring will rewind - might need to use a small screw driver to make sure the spring reattaches at the proper spot.

Hope this helps.

I was wondering how hard it was going to be if I did the spring unwind and then had to wind it back up. I like your idea with the tie wrap.

Thanks!
 
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If anyone needs suggestions on a relatively easy way to re-wind the spring let me know. The first time it took a couple hours to figure it out, the last time about 20 minutes.
Please do. I am considering replacing my 3rd spring to wound position.

. I'll probably keep going for a while because my throttle stays open.

:)
No wonder I can't keep you in sight.

Jim

 
My throttle is stiff enough that I keep a CrampBuster on the grip at all times so I tried this mod while I was changing spark plugs on my '06. It turns out I have the same situation where the spring did not return all the way to the tang once unwound one turn. In fact, the throttle did not re-engage the spring until it was almost halfway open. Between this and the wire from the aftermarket grip heater the throttle was very slow to return to idle.

At least I was smart about rewinding the spring. Two loops of 6 lb. fishing leader were enough and the leader easily followed the spring around the shaft as it unwound. It was a simple matter of pulling it back and re-engating the tang.

I was hoping this would work but I'd rather have 100% assurance the throttle will return to idle.

 
My throttle is stiff enough that I keep a CrampBuster on the grip at all times so I tried this mod while I was changing spark plugs on my '06. It turns out I have the same situation where the spring did not return all the way to the tang once unwound one turn. In fact, the throttle did not re-engage the spring until it was almost halfway open. Between this and the wire from the aftermarket grip heater the throttle was very slow to return to idle.

At least I was smart about rewinding the spring. Two loops of 6 lb. fishing leader were enough and the leader easily followed the spring around the shaft as it unwound. It was a simple matter of pulling it back and re-engating the tang.

I was hoping this would work but I'd rather have 100% assurance the throttle will return to idle.
Don't know if you had done this step, but like our friend Silent said in post #2, you have to adjust the throttle (cables), after doing this mod. I know the spring on my 06 didn't touch the throttle spring stop either after doing the mod which then created more noticeable slack in the cables not allowing proper grip/throttle return.

I know one has to work carefully as also earlier mentioned to make sure there is no interference on the grip portion. This can be touchy adjusting the cables as a little adjustment one way or the other can make alot of difference as in return. I know on mine the least amount of freeplay the better it worked. But if you take your time in doing this step and make sure the tube is lubed, this mod IMO is well worth the effort. Throttle control is so important on this type of bike and frankly I couldn't imagine riding it now without the spring mod. Take care, PM. <>< ;)

 
I saw the mention of cable play but didn't make any adjustments. I figure the grip heater wire itself added enough friction to negate any further benefit from play adjustment. I agree, less play is better.

Now that I've been under there the mystery is gone and I may give it another go. Though it's mile away I'm not looking forward to all the disassembly that goes with checking valve clearances.

 
I will add to this as I am doing the AVCC install. I too found the spring not touching it's home after releasing the tension and thought not good and put back. I am trying the crampbuster also but not long enough to decide, at least only 11 Washington's.Got a major Hill country ride coming up and need some to and from relief for geezers.

The one thing to it if you decide to try, the ziptie trick works great. That's the main reason the Forum is "GREAT"

 
I got my 07 new and the return springs were very tight, as in hand cramps and pain after 40 miles. I released the middle spring one turn and it still hooks on the tab firmly. Once a year I have to clean the G2 tube and lube the throttle cable. The throttle return is quick and it seats with a "click." With the spring released one turn the throttle feels about like the throttle on other bikes.

The spring release may be optional on some FJRs but it was a necessary change on my bike.

 
First remove the gas tank. This is necessary in order to get access to the throttle shaft.
Second get a nylon tie about 8" long, and about 3/16" wide, cut off one end and use a small punch to put a hole slightly larger than the diameter of the throttle return spring wire near the cut end.

Third curl up the nylon tie - wrap around a finger or whatever - and then insert the curled tie around the spring pushing it from the rear, underneath and around over the top, then hook the hole in the tie on the spring (actually goes on quite easily).

Fourth gently pull the nylon tie and the spring will rewind - might need to use a small screw driver to make sure the spring reattaches at the proper spot.

Hope this helps.

____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

+1 on the above...

 

The nylon tie, works great to re-do the spring (I drilled a small hole in the end of the tie). When I initially unwound the spring in my 04, I believe it went more than one rotation. With the thottle closed fully, the spring end was approx 1/4" away from the tab. The throttle was slightly slow returning but not bad at all. I rode it for about 2 years like that, learned about the nylon tie trick and put it back with ONE ROTATION. Its fine now, not too hard and it closes as it should...

 

Prior to learning about the plastic tie, I tried safety wire. I would NOT recommend this as it is very easy to get safety wire hung up under the throttle bodies. Doing the plastic tie is a piece of cake and easily reverses the un-wind.
 
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