ELP_JC
Well-known member
Let me start by politely asking to post your smart a$$ comments somewhere else; this is a TECHNICAL forum. Please let me help others like I've been helped, and only post if you have something POSITIVE to contribute.
I said 'perfect' install because I didn't crunch/cut/squeeze anything, and corrected unsightly gaps in the process. There're many other ways to accomplish it, but it wasn't hard to do it this way, and it should never give you any problems.
Some pics before starting (this is on a GenII '07):
I don't see how an install can get any harder than mine, so everything should be covered here folks.
For starters, I bought the TM used, and was slightly damaged in several places. Since I wanted mine smoothed to a mirror polish (TM's polished option still looks 'machined'), rather than returning it to the seller (he graciously offered a full refund), bought a $4 assorted set of sand paper, and went at it while watching a program. This was a lot more time consuming than just polishing a set, due to the fact I had to sand enough material to eliminate the defects. Started with 220 grit, then 400, 600, 800, and 1000, and finally metal polish. Oh, and I did the bolt's heads as well.
Oh, and the red pinstriping was perfect after the job, so you know, but I removed it since I like them 'plain' better. Ended up with this (looks a lot better in person):
https://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb3/ELP_JC/ITEMS014.jpg
Then came time to remove the grommets. Again, worst case scenario. The freaking grommet broke, leaving the sleeve inside the clipon. NOTHING worked gentlemen, so save your money. An ID extractor slipped right thru, because the sleeve is RECESSED. Take a look:
https://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb3/ELP_JC/Grommet-1.jpg
Only way to safely remove it IMO was by cutting it with a 12" 24-teeth hack saw blade, wrapped in a shop rag. You'd be cutting thru part of the inside of the clipon (as seen in the pic above), but that's not a problem. As long as you cut thru half the sleeve, you can remove it driving a small screwdriver under the cut to lift the sleeve, then with needlenose pliers, bend it up some more until you can grab it solidly (I used needle nose vise grips), then rotate it to break it loose, then pull out turning it back and forth. You'll have to sand the inner cut and the scrape left by driving the screwdriver in, but it's minimal.
Your clipon will look like the picture above, and the remains of the grommet will look like this:
https://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb3/ELP_JC/Grommet-2.jpg
Now to the actual install. The left side is a piece of cake. Insert the 3 provided washers (spacers) into the left side barend weight, then the long hollowed spacer, then the long bolt with its countersunk adapter. Drive the bolt until it has about 1/2" left. Push the barend against the grommet so you feel it stop, and make sure you barely pushed the outside lip of the left grip. If you have a gap, or pushed the grip too much, you need to add or remove a washer to make it fit perfectly. NOTE: If your grip is pushed against the housing, like it should be, fit should be perfect with the 3 washers. Repositioning the grip can be done in seconds, and with NO fluids (explanation below). Once the fit is fine, put some BLUE loctite on the bolt when it's about 1/2" exposed (pulling on the barend), and tighten. Here's how it should look like:
https://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb3/ELP_JC/ITEMS017.jpg
To perfectly install the TM, you'll have to remove the throttle grip to get rid of the plastic 'washer' next to the housing. The TM won't engage without 'crunching' the grip quite a bit with that washer in there. Grip looks much better without it anyway, and we'll position the grip perfectly so it barely touches the housing when pushed in. You'll need an air compressor for that, set at 60 psi to the hose (fill the tank to at least 100 psi). And you'll need this tool:
https://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb3/ELP_JC/ITEMS018.jpg
You can use this method on either left or right grip. My right grip was so far out that it was impossible to use the TM like that. Some folks elect to 'crunch up' their grips in less severe cases, and it works, but looks much better to me without that gap, and it's super easy to remove with an air compressor, so why not do it that way?
With the air tool with 60 psi (any more and you can rip the rubber), just lift the end of the grip a little, and blow air in SMALL BURSTS until the whole grip is loosened. As you blow air, you'll see the grip 'balooning' deeper and deeper with each burst. Keep doing it in that location until you see the grip 'balooning' a little until the end. Do it at 12, 3, 6, and 9 o'clock. It takes maybe half a minute each. Once loose, just grab the grip at the edge with your right hand, lift it a little, blow air with the left hand, and it'll come out with 3 or 4 bursts. After each burst, get the air tool deeper to touch the clipon, and blow again. It takes seconds. NOTE: Resist the urge to remove the leftover glue, because you might need it if a bit of 'crunching' is required. Mine sprang right out when pushed in, and had to get it absolutely perfect; no need for that folks.
Remove the plastic washer, and just push in the grip by hand as much as you can (about 1/2"). Push it in by blowing air the same way. You can position that sucker perfectly at any distance. First drive it all the way in, then start pulling it until you can push the throttle tube and HEAR IT hit the housing. When it's almost perfect, you can insert your fingers between housing and grip and pull it out a little. The goal is to push the throttle tube in and out and hear it hit its stops BOTH WAYS. Play with it until you achieve that. Once you do, the grip will be positioned correctly for the TM to be able to engage the tube without hardly any gap from the grip. At this point insert the TM and start playing with it until you have it working perfectly. When tightening the TM, PULL it out so it doesn't 'drive itself in' while tightening. It WILL do that if you don't pull it out strongly. If you didn't remove the glue like I did, and you didn't get the grip barely touching the housing, you'd have to 'crunch' up the grip by that much (maybe 1mm), which is nothing. Better than 10 minutes of trial and error, really, even for a perfectionist like me. By now, your throttle tube should be almost at the edge of the grip.
Once you got it to work, you know no more grip adjustments, so it's time to take the bolt out, put some BLUE loctite, and put it back in. If you hold the TM while tightening, you'll get it right the first time. Otherwise you'll have to play a little until you get it perfectly again. Don't worry; the loctite takes several hours to harden.
The gap from housing to grip is visibly nonexistent, but throttle springs back like if it had no TM at all. It looks like this:
https://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb3/ELP_JC/ITEMS015.jpg
And even polished and with a Throttle Rocker (I have the 1-piece), it's a piece of cake to operate. Another tip: NO need to disengage the TM all the way to 'OFF" folks. With half its travel, the throttle is as loose as it's going to get, and it only takes one turn to activate the TM again. Fully 'off', it takes two. Just a matter of preference.
Hope this helps folks. I'm trying to 'pay forward' what I've learned here.
JC
I said 'perfect' install because I didn't crunch/cut/squeeze anything, and corrected unsightly gaps in the process. There're many other ways to accomplish it, but it wasn't hard to do it this way, and it should never give you any problems.
Some pics before starting (this is on a GenII '07):
I don't see how an install can get any harder than mine, so everything should be covered here folks.
For starters, I bought the TM used, and was slightly damaged in several places. Since I wanted mine smoothed to a mirror polish (TM's polished option still looks 'machined'), rather than returning it to the seller (he graciously offered a full refund), bought a $4 assorted set of sand paper, and went at it while watching a program. This was a lot more time consuming than just polishing a set, due to the fact I had to sand enough material to eliminate the defects. Started with 220 grit, then 400, 600, 800, and 1000, and finally metal polish. Oh, and I did the bolt's heads as well.
Oh, and the red pinstriping was perfect after the job, so you know, but I removed it since I like them 'plain' better. Ended up with this (looks a lot better in person):
https://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb3/ELP_JC/ITEMS014.jpg
Then came time to remove the grommets. Again, worst case scenario. The freaking grommet broke, leaving the sleeve inside the clipon. NOTHING worked gentlemen, so save your money. An ID extractor slipped right thru, because the sleeve is RECESSED. Take a look:
https://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb3/ELP_JC/Grommet-1.jpg
Only way to safely remove it IMO was by cutting it with a 12" 24-teeth hack saw blade, wrapped in a shop rag. You'd be cutting thru part of the inside of the clipon (as seen in the pic above), but that's not a problem. As long as you cut thru half the sleeve, you can remove it driving a small screwdriver under the cut to lift the sleeve, then with needlenose pliers, bend it up some more until you can grab it solidly (I used needle nose vise grips), then rotate it to break it loose, then pull out turning it back and forth. You'll have to sand the inner cut and the scrape left by driving the screwdriver in, but it's minimal.
Your clipon will look like the picture above, and the remains of the grommet will look like this:
https://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb3/ELP_JC/Grommet-2.jpg
Now to the actual install. The left side is a piece of cake. Insert the 3 provided washers (spacers) into the left side barend weight, then the long hollowed spacer, then the long bolt with its countersunk adapter. Drive the bolt until it has about 1/2" left. Push the barend against the grommet so you feel it stop, and make sure you barely pushed the outside lip of the left grip. If you have a gap, or pushed the grip too much, you need to add or remove a washer to make it fit perfectly. NOTE: If your grip is pushed against the housing, like it should be, fit should be perfect with the 3 washers. Repositioning the grip can be done in seconds, and with NO fluids (explanation below). Once the fit is fine, put some BLUE loctite on the bolt when it's about 1/2" exposed (pulling on the barend), and tighten. Here's how it should look like:
https://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb3/ELP_JC/ITEMS017.jpg
To perfectly install the TM, you'll have to remove the throttle grip to get rid of the plastic 'washer' next to the housing. The TM won't engage without 'crunching' the grip quite a bit with that washer in there. Grip looks much better without it anyway, and we'll position the grip perfectly so it barely touches the housing when pushed in. You'll need an air compressor for that, set at 60 psi to the hose (fill the tank to at least 100 psi). And you'll need this tool:
https://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb3/ELP_JC/ITEMS018.jpg
You can use this method on either left or right grip. My right grip was so far out that it was impossible to use the TM like that. Some folks elect to 'crunch up' their grips in less severe cases, and it works, but looks much better to me without that gap, and it's super easy to remove with an air compressor, so why not do it that way?
With the air tool with 60 psi (any more and you can rip the rubber), just lift the end of the grip a little, and blow air in SMALL BURSTS until the whole grip is loosened. As you blow air, you'll see the grip 'balooning' deeper and deeper with each burst. Keep doing it in that location until you see the grip 'balooning' a little until the end. Do it at 12, 3, 6, and 9 o'clock. It takes maybe half a minute each. Once loose, just grab the grip at the edge with your right hand, lift it a little, blow air with the left hand, and it'll come out with 3 or 4 bursts. After each burst, get the air tool deeper to touch the clipon, and blow again. It takes seconds. NOTE: Resist the urge to remove the leftover glue, because you might need it if a bit of 'crunching' is required. Mine sprang right out when pushed in, and had to get it absolutely perfect; no need for that folks.
Remove the plastic washer, and just push in the grip by hand as much as you can (about 1/2"). Push it in by blowing air the same way. You can position that sucker perfectly at any distance. First drive it all the way in, then start pulling it until you can push the throttle tube and HEAR IT hit the housing. When it's almost perfect, you can insert your fingers between housing and grip and pull it out a little. The goal is to push the throttle tube in and out and hear it hit its stops BOTH WAYS. Play with it until you achieve that. Once you do, the grip will be positioned correctly for the TM to be able to engage the tube without hardly any gap from the grip. At this point insert the TM and start playing with it until you have it working perfectly. When tightening the TM, PULL it out so it doesn't 'drive itself in' while tightening. It WILL do that if you don't pull it out strongly. If you didn't remove the glue like I did, and you didn't get the grip barely touching the housing, you'd have to 'crunch' up the grip by that much (maybe 1mm), which is nothing. Better than 10 minutes of trial and error, really, even for a perfectionist like me. By now, your throttle tube should be almost at the edge of the grip.
Once you got it to work, you know no more grip adjustments, so it's time to take the bolt out, put some BLUE loctite, and put it back in. If you hold the TM while tightening, you'll get it right the first time. Otherwise you'll have to play a little until you get it perfectly again. Don't worry; the loctite takes several hours to harden.
The gap from housing to grip is visibly nonexistent, but throttle springs back like if it had no TM at all. It looks like this:
https://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb3/ELP_JC/ITEMS015.jpg
And even polished and with a Throttle Rocker (I have the 1-piece), it's a piece of cake to operate. Another tip: NO need to disengage the TM all the way to 'OFF" folks. With half its travel, the throttle is as loose as it's going to get, and it only takes one turn to activate the TM again. Fully 'off', it takes two. Just a matter of preference.
Hope this helps folks. I'm trying to 'pay forward' what I've learned here.
JC
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