Recent content by mjlovstrom

Yes it's not hard at all, and it took me about 2 hours total.. When you take the rear tire off, loosen the 6 ( I think there were 6) nuts holding the final drive plate-- just loosen them.. you will remove them fully when you remove the drive off the bike-- just makes it easier... Be sure to...

One other point, if you look at a feeler gauge making a .004 or a .008 change in a shim to get within spec really isn't making the earth move-- I can see a ring and pinon wearing that and more with lot's of miles... My Toyota Tacoma with 288000 has lots of backlash-- I here it every time I go...

On the dial indicator I was at .028--- spec is .010-.018. Noticable even when turning the shaft by hand can get a noticeable sound when the gears make contact.. When I tightened it up quieted it down a lot. The tolerances are understandably tight when new so no noise/ clunk isn't...

My 2004 FJR1300 with 88000 miles had a noticeable clunk coming the driveshaft and drive line when shifting and going on/off the thottle. At first I thought it was U-joints so I replaced those but was not the problem. Noticed excessive backlash at the Middle drive gear so re-shimmed that from...

I have an 04 with 88000 miles and a ticker. But after doing a valve adjustment and loosing up the valve clearance a bit actually quieted it down noticeably. I also switched to Rotella Synthetic and that again helped a little more. You can still hear it, but at least people next to me at a...

I suppose, but in the factory yamaha service manual it is mentioned as a middle gear adjustment and only mentions the external shims that need attention.

I went down in shim size one at a time, and then checked the " backlash" and then rode it to hear the result. As I would go down in the size of shim of course the slop would be diminished in the gear set, and the backlash felt at the output shaft was of course be less as well. On my bike...

Hey Dave, yup # 25 on the ficsh are the shims--- Actually only less than 3.00 each--cheap

Nice replies, just started hated to ride my bike with it clunking every time I shifted--- Type A mabey, but not deaf. It was a fix worth 30 minutes of my time and 20.00. I'm an Auditor-- go figure

#25 ??

The reason is shimmed the middle gear is that I was hearing alot of noise going on and off the throttle down by the u-joints. I replaced the u-joints but they were good. When I had the swingarm off I twisted the output shaft back and forth and found more than usual play, and nice metallic...

Takes about 15 minutes. Three bolts, slide out old shims and install new ones-- literally. Look at the U-Joint cover and you will see three bolts- The shims ( two of them) have a tab for you to grab with some needle nose pliers and just pull them out, Since you will install thinner shims...

I switched to T6 and made a nice difference in the engine running a little quieter. I have 82000 miles on my 2004 ( ticker ), and the T6 actually quieted down the noise noticably. Didn't believe it would work, but did.

Do you have notice more the normal clunking coming from your tranny or what sounds like rear differential or U-joints? Could be your middle gear needs to be shimmed down a bit. Did that to my bike and made a big difference. My 2004 FJR1300 has 82000 miles and was getting a little loose.