Battery replacement

I have a 2010 FJR1300 that needs a new battery. Current battery is YUASA GT14B-4.  Has anyone used a different brand when replacing? If so, what is recommended?

Thanks.

I just replaced the battery in 2015 with one from Battery Mart. They seem to have a good selector tool to make sure it fits properly.

I am partial to the Yuasa batteries.  Uniformly good quality and last a long time.  Significantly more expensive than some.

Lots of battery threads on the forum - search function works well...

MotoBatt AGM

I have tried so many different replacement batteries.....  Have been disappointed in just about all of them.  I never did try the Yuasa replacement because I am a cheap bastard.

Well,  I have seen the error of my ways.  Now I spend a bit more and get better performance and longevity.  I am now of fan of the lithium batteries.  Screw traditional lead-acid batteries!  I have a 5 year old Shorai in one of my FJRs that still works great.

I have moved to Antigravity batteries due to their re-start technology.  Pricey bastards, but no more dead replacement batteries in anywhere from 3 months to 2 years.

https://antigravitybatteries.com/products/starter-batteries/restart-oem/at12-bs-rs/

Thanks to all for the info.

My vote Is for a Shorai lithium. I’ve had one in the feejer for roughly 5 years and it has performed fabulously. In the winter when I don’t ride much, it has sat for as much as 6 weeks with no “tender” on it, and it fires the bike up easily, even after that long a nap.

Pricey yes, but well worth it.....

Biknflyfisher

I had a Shorai in my '06 for 7 or so years.  I ride year-round in MD.  Only issue was when temps dropped below 30 degr.  Bike is kept in a garage.  Some mornings it took about 6 attempts to start the bike.  The Li battery warms with each attempt.  I would put the aux lights on for a minute or so before the first crank.  Li batteries do not like the cold.  Still have the battery.  Not sure if I'll put it in my '16.

Just ordered my 2nd one of these

https://www.batterystuff.com/powersports-batteries/sYT14B-4.html

1st one lasted 6 years so for $72 decided to try another.

My bike is 7 years old it's done 54,000 miles and I am still on the original Yuasa without problems.

raesewell said:

My bike is 7 years old it's done 54,000 miles and I am still on the original Yuasa without problems.

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...and I got 10 years and 150,000 miles on the OEM Yuasa on my '07 before I replaced the battery; 9 years (so far) and 75,000 miles on the 2011 that I bought used (with OEM battery).  The Yuasa batteries sold aftermarket in North America are not identical to the OEM but they are still a very good quality battery.  Worth the extra?  Who knows?

Yeah, those old Yuasa batteries were the shit!  I got 9 good yrs and 1/2 a crappy one (about 110K miles) from my OE '07 battery.

Hey OP, I would also suggest to review this informative clip by Fortnine on modern battery technologies / models offered for motorcycles.



That may help you shortlist your choices a bit.

Good luck in your quest...

Cyclepath said:

Hey OP, I would also suggest to review this informative clip by Fortnine on modern battery technologies / models offered for motorcycles.

...

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The video taught me one thing, lithiums don't have the actual capacity they say they do. A real 3ah when labelled as 9? Who'd have thought that? (That’s not to say they won't do a good job on a  motorcycle.)

mcatrophy said:

The video taught me one thing, lithiums don't have the actual capacity they say they do. A real 3ah when labelled as 9? Who'd have thought that? (That’s not to say they won't do a good job on a  motorcycle.)

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A lot of lithium battery manufacturers do the same.  In a device (motorcycle battery, power bank, jump starter etc.) that uses multiple cells in series to hit the target voltage, they tend to calculate the amp hours based upon what it would be with the cells in parallel at the voltage of a single cell.  Totally misleading.

Lithium batteries operating at optimum temperature can provide tons of current with little voltage drop.  Capacity may not be as high but it is more useable since voltage remains high.  They also have a very low self-discharge rate and good lifetime if not abused.  Downside is poor performance in cold weather and low tolerance for over-discharge.

I read that lithium batteries are better at cold temps compared to lead acid. You have to let them warm up for 30 sec, but thats not a problem.

allrider said:

I read that lithium batteries are better at cold temps compared to lead acid. You have to let them warm up for 30 sec, but thats not a problem.

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If you warm them up by turning on auxiliary lights or something similar then they work better but you are not looking at cold performance!  I would not suggest cranking the starter to warm them up.  Not doing the starter any favors trying to turn over a cold engine at reduced voltage (and higher current) because the battery can't produce the requisite amps at the full battery voltage.

stealth1 said:

Just ordered my 2nd one of these

https://www.batterystuff.com/powersports-batteries/sYT14B-4.html

1st one lasted 6 years so for $72 decided to try another.

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Thanks. Going to try one. Free ship as well.

Shorai Li batteries suck.

1. If totally discharged, the battery is dead, gone, finito, permanently damaged kiss your $$$ good bye (AntiGravity supposedly has a 'disconnect' chip to 'protect' from total discharge.) So if you leave the key on, adios Li...
2. As stated above, a 3Ah is sold as 9 Ah meaning if your FJR doesn't fire right the phuck up, there is very little amperage (current) available to spin the motor. They trick here is to order the largest Li that will fit in battery compartment, get as much as current capacity as possible, and the battery will still be lighter.
3. How much of a selling point is light weight? Most of us could loose belly fat and have better power to weight ratios than spending $200+ on a Li battery.
4. Very slow, laborious cranking on my 06 and 13 FJR's. I feel for that poor starter motor. I mean, barely turning over, almost stalling out. Very hard on brushes, windings. Have you priced new FJR starter motors lately?

How much do I not like them? I removed both of them, installed new Yuasa's, and am GIVING them away for free to my bud who has good luck with Li's in smaller displacement single cylinder motobikes.

dcarver said:

Very slow, laborious cranking on my 06 and 13 FJR's. I feel for that poor starter motor. I mean, barely turning over, almost stalling out. Very hard on brushes, windings. Have you priced new FJR starter motors lately?

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Yup. I don't get the people who say you just have to crank them (Lithium batteries) a bit to "wake them up" when it is cold. High current at low voltage may warm up the battery to the detriment of the starter (brushes, commutator and windings), relays and ignition switch. MAYBE use an incandescent aux light to "warm it up" (or maybe an arc welder).

Lithium manufacturers lie about capacity (ampere-hours) by giving you the parallel cell values when the cells are connected in series. They also conveniently redefine CCA (cold cranking amps). Industry definition says amps deliverable at 0 °F before voltage drops below 7.2V. Shorai says to turn on lights for 4-5 minutes before cranking at 0 °F. This preheats the battery without abusing the starter but regular headlights won't come on before engine start...

Hard to beat a Yuasa AGM battery - still running the OEM in my 2011...