2016 headlamp adjuster knob set screw - help

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And if you are going to look for a replacement screw, the oem one you're struggling with is part #98507-03010-00, which is a metric 3mm x 10mm (length) , x 0.50 pitch screw, with Phillips head. (Mr. Phillips sucks by the way, haha). And you're right, on our newer FJRs the knobs can only go on in one way due to the "D" shape of the shaft and knob insert.
 

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Try to get it in without the knob so you know if it grabs or not first. They can be a pita. Also rotate the knob outwards so you have more room to turn. I have stubby fingers and managed to lose one of those.
 
Ndivita- Had the same issue on my 2015. Found that semi circle shaft (#12) you reference developed a little up and down play over time. My fix was to make sure the shaft is raised up and this will allow alignment for the screw to go into its threads. Never figured out why I had this play but this is what worked for me. Hope this helps
 

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Success!

I re-tapped the threads in the adjustment stem eliminating any latent cross threading. 3 mm, .50 thread pitch tap.

I verified the thread pitch in the screw. I verified that the screw threaded into the tapped adjustment stem hole without the knob. I put the knob on thinking I was home free.

The screw still would not thread in. Thus it had to be some dimensional anomaly in the knob interfering with mating of the set screw to the threaded hole in the adjustment stem.

With a Dremel I bored out a little plastic in the knob to give a little more space in the hole and where the threads attach being careful to preserve the D shaped area. I used some bore cleaner, lined it up once more, and presto, it seated and threaded up. I used a small JIS Phillips head.

Some proof that minor variations in the manufacturing output can cause real world headaches.

At any rate, problem solved. In my world this is a knob job. Saved some dough as well.

Thank you guys immensely for your help and ideas.
 
For future ease, do consider changing the screws to socket head cap. Using a ball-end allen makes assembly a snap. Glad you got it sorted!

~G
 
His is a 2016. The Gen3 is constructed differently. The knobs MUST be removed.
@rbentnail , I understand, and that was the point of my post - to describe a method I used to align the hole on the shaft with the hole on the knob IF the knob is removed. However, I admit: I don’t have a Gen III, nor do I have access to one so my suggestion may not work on newer bikes. Please ignore it it that is the case.
 
I would note that the first time I did it (before switching to the Allen sockets), it seemed that the screwdriver was engaged but just kept turning as per the original post. I quickly discovered that the screwdriver head was very slightly too wide for the hole and the tip wasn't, in fact, engaging with the head of the screw. It was fine after changing to a different screwdriver bit. I wonder if that was the original problem instead of not getting it lined up? When the OP enlarged the hole, it would have worked better...
 
I was using a small JIS Philips head screw driver. It worked on one side but not the other, until I tapped the stem threads and widened the knob opening on the recalcitrant left side.

I'm not sure of the root cause of the issue. I'll probably never know.

Next time if there is a next time I'll remember this issue and how to avoid it, that's for sure. Changing a battery on a motorcycle ought to be easy by design and this is fraught with seemingly needless hassle.
 
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